I have a 69 convertible with a hard top.I usually put the hard top on in the fall but it is a two person operation. It getting a little tougher every year and I was wondering if anyone knows of an easier way of handling this task.

Thanks in advance for any advise.

 

You could purchase a hardtop lift that is sold by many of the major vendors. A pulley, rope, and sling system.

 

Thanks for reply. Is there one you would recommend?

 

First I made a roof bracket with angle iron with all the holes, pipe insulation, ratchet straps and a hand winch from harbor freight. Later I found a used top system for a mercedes that had a different style hand winch but it was about the same. It make it a one man *** for liftintng but I add a lot of padding arouund the mounting pins as I lift so if it slides it doesnt scratch the paint

 

I purchased a electric ceiling mounted winch and lifting sling from Top-host.com approximately four years ago. The winch has to bolted to a ceiling joist and needs 110 volts to operate. The winch (they provide) is from Harbor Fright, but the lifting sling is made by the company. The person I dealt with answered my questions, and was extremely helpful. The unit works very well and is easily operated by one person. If your decide to get an electric hoist, you are welcome to pm me. I will be happy to provide information on a method to keep from scratching the hell out of your rear deck.

 

Here is a picture of the plate covered with a piece of vinyl that keeps the threaded shafts (on the hard top) from scratching the rear deck.


The cut out section goes around the chrome receiver on the rear deck lid. Inside against painted rear deck, remove plate after threaded shafts are in receivers.

 

That's a big help. I will try to duplicate. Thanks again for your help.

 

I made a really nice one...maybe beauty is in the eye of the beholder but it's pretty sweet, solid, and works as designed.

It's electric winch mounted to 1/8th wall 2x2" sq steel tubing lag bolted to supports in my wall (u can use the rafters or wall) that won't fall down.

Went to the muffler shop and measured the width of the roof right at the back edge of the side window glass at the top, but added an additional 3 inches for foam padding at the corners.

The exhaust pipe I used is 1-3/4" and when inserted through the open windows the sides extend up above the roof maybe 10-12 inches. Couple ways to attach the pipe ends to the lift but I used 1/2" 1/8th wall tubing that fit nicely between the two top side extensions. At the top of these two side extensions I put one side with a permanent 7/16 x 6" bolt. The side closest to me I put a 6" removable bolt.

With one hand I slide the exhaust pipe through the open windows and hold it so that I can slide the 1/2" pipe over the non-removable 6" bolt and then just install the removable 6" bolt at my end. The length of the bolt is such that it will not snap off or bend to allow falling out.

I have a heavy duty strap for hauling my motorcycle so one end goes under the back of the roof and attaches to the center of the exhaust pipe, the other end attaches to the 1/2" pipe to balance the rear (heavy end of the roof. The roof cannot flip around because the roof is supported with the exhaust pipe at the corners.

Anything that might touch the roof I wrapped with foam and it works perfectly. Light weight and strong.

Clear as mud?... U might not be interested but it's the best answer to get the roof off alone. Without an electric winch it's a bear to figure a manual pulley system.

JR

 

Thanks JR.

 

I agree with the Harbor Freight lift! I have two hardtops and two lifts in my garage.
I used the provided pully that doubles the lifting power. However that is not why I used it.
It also halves the lifting/lowering speed! Very nice!

Don't forget to cover the hardtop while it is stored so dust and things from above do not fall on it including lube from the lifts!

Scott

 

Another question about the hardtop. I just bought a 75 with auxillary hardtop about a month ago. My son and I took it off and it was a real pain. We had angle the back deck lid about 45 degrees to be able to reach the bolts on the inside of the deck lid. So it was a two person job one to hold the top at that angle the other to undo the bolts in the rear of the top. Is there any easier way to get the roof off and on?

 

Previous owner of my car installed a couple of the same pins/couplers from the folding soft top to the hardtop, so they stay with the top. Only have to adjust it for depth once, then to remove it, just move the lever under the deck to disengage the pins, and the top comes right off.

Hope this helps!


Paul

 

On some year C3 there are holes with chrome receivers on the inside wall of each side of the rear deck. The hard top has a metal bracket on each side that allows a special hex head bolt to screw into each receiver. Unfortunately as was the case with my 73, our old friend Bubba decided to remove them. Ernie Willcox was kind enough to locate a pair of the brackets for me, because none of the suppliers sell them. I don’t see how it’s possible to attach nuts on the thread shafts with the soft top folded under the rear deck.

 

You can open the deck with the hard top on and have some one hold it up while you tighten those bolts. I have a 68 so it always had the same pins as the soft top.

 

Here’s a picture of my lift,although I haven’t tried it out yet.
I also changed the rear studs out for the convertible pins.

 

I have that same hoist on my trolley system for my engines. Works great but it operates at a higher speed than I like, so I added in a couple of pulleys ( like a block and tackle) to slow the travel. It was easier than trying to find a new switch with speed control

 

I think of you double up the cable it will run slower.