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I’ve got my 75 up on jack stands to replace the leaf spring and strut rods this winter. I have discovered that the differential cover is broken. Dropping the cross member and diff to replace this is way beyond my abilities (not to mention my toolbox) so I’m throwing in the towel and taking it to a shop for help. The only problem is I’m unsure how to tow it at this point. The leaf is still on the differential but the lowering bolts have been removed (cut off, actually) and all tension is off. The leaf is broken and the bottom most layer snapped off from the edge of the differential on the passenger side, so putting tension back on it is out of the question.
How do I get this beast out of the garage? I can put the tires back on and try to lower it down, but the leaf will be dragging on the ground and I’m worried about the body sitting on my tires.
I don’t have access to a trailer, so I need it rolling enough that a tow company can winch it onto a trailer.
Any tips? I feel way in over my head at this point.
If you don’t need the space..why not hire someone to drop it out for you? I bet less than a tow adds to your tool box and pays an able mechanic a couple hours labor? Or yourself and have more tools!
you can make decisions at your pace then not someone else’s shop...
or negotiate with the shop first and let them add the how to get it there scenario..
Last edited by interpon; Jan 26, 2021 at 05:25 PM.
Hey Corkscrew, so sorry you're in a bit of a pickle. First off, take a deep breath - it will all work out okay.
A couple of ideas. It sounds like you don't have the inclination or tools to complete the work yourself. Interpon has a viable idea - to pay someone to come to your home and do the work. A lot of mechanics like to moonlight for cash money - but you'll need someone you can trust. Some good videos on utube about this stuff too. And I understand completely. I'm removing the diff, trailing arms, etc. etc. from our '68 right now and I have a lift, lots of tools, and a lot of car experience and parts of it can still kick your butt.
Another thought is: are you certain you can't put some pressure back on the spring? You could try minimal pressure by using longer (8 inch or 9 inch) spring bolts just to get it on the ground with reduced spring pressure. You could then get a flat bed to haul it to your shop. The broken ear on the diff case won't be a problem for flat bedding imo.
Hope this helps. Hang in there - and keep us in the loop. Other members will chime in with ideas too. Best, Paul
I hate to suggest you do something you are not comfortable with, but it seems to me if you can replace the spring and strut rods, you can replace the diff cover. Maybe you just need more tools.
IF....you can tolerate drilling holes in the floor of the cargo area directly above the bolts that hold the differential to the crossmember you can save lots of time and headaches.
Drill the holes big enough to fit the correct size socket onto the bolt heads/remove the bolts/lower the differential and slide it from under the car.
Do all necessary maintenance to the internal gears-parts/install new cover/reassemble.......
The holes can be fiberglassed-over after reinstallation, or an access panel can be installed in the floor
TAAAAAAA DAAAAA!Rebuilt.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jan 26, 2021 at 08:07 PM.
I agree with everyone so far. Good advice. Only you know what your skill level will allow. So if you have to move it the way it is. Maybe this idea could work. The *** end of one of these couldn't weigh more than a piano. Harbor freight sells furniture dolly's. One of these with a spare wheel between the diff and dolly may allow a roll back tow truck to winch it up and load it. Use a ratchet strap to hold it all together. I haven't tried this, so I can't guarantee it will work. But I like finding solutions to problems that require thinking outside the box. Best of luck to you.
I recently used Gold Dragon’s method to transport a 71 that had no rear suspension in it. Didn’t use a rollback—used an open trailer. Rollback would have been easier. But the method works.
The trailing arms will rise with out the spring right?
So strap some 2x4s on top of the trailing arm, under the frame.
Go for something close to ride height. Strap them on so they don't fall off.
Bolt on wheels.
A roller with a "hard-tail" just like a Harley LOL.
There are only about 2-4 inches between the t-arm and the frame. Take off the rubber bump stop if needed. Easy!
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. After watching a few YouTube videos, I am pretty sure I’m going to need help dropping the differential. What I didn’t add in my original post is that I’m not experienced working on cars. I bought this to learn more. I don’t have any friends who are car buffs. I’m a middle aged woman who is learning solely from online resources. So getting in over my head is going to happen, but there will be times when I need more tools, experience, strength, etc. This is one of those times. As such, I’ve decided this is my plan forward.
I’m purchasing the new composite leaf as was my original plan. I can bolt it in at 3 points (that 4th ear is going to fall off when I pull down the broken spring). It won’t be safe to drive, but I should be able to lower the car to be rolled, if necessary.
Second step will be finding someone who wouldn’t mine coming to my home to moonlight/teach me. I haven’t found anyone yet, but I think I’ll try joining my regional Corvette club in the spring and see if I can make a new friend or two.
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions! Lots of creative ways to move this should it come to that.
It’s really not that bad a job your already started disconnect the drive shaft four bolts and spring is out diff is mounted to that cross member it unbolted use floor jack with a helper lower it down it’s not that bad a job Good luck
The trailing arms will rise with out the spring right?
So strap some 2x4s on top of the trailing arm, under the frame.
Go for something close to ride height. Strap them on so they don't fall off.
Bolt on wheels.
A roller with a "hard-tail" just like a Harley LOL.
There are only about 2-4 inches between the t-arm and the frame. Take off the rubber bump stop if needed. Easy!
This is exactly what I would do. Fabricate some kinda spacer and mount it between the frame and the trailing arm near the bump stop. Provided the half shafts and trailing arm bolts and shims are still in place it should be stable enough to get onto a trailer/wrecker and back into a shop.
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Tow car without leaf spring
