I rewired a 700R4 transmission in my streetrod years ago with $60.00 invested in switches/relays/etc.

Now, because of the close gear ratio AND Lockout/Overdrive abilities I want to (re)wire a 4L60 into my '68 project.

I did a CF search and an internet search, but the rewiring sites didn't give me all the info I need.

The engine is a stock 1970 350 cu, in,..plus the Holley 600 Carb...currently mated with a TH400 in good working order.

EDIT: A 4L60 NON-COMPUTER TRANSMISSION WOULD BE A BETTER CHOICE (rather than a 4L60E)..I'm familiar with rewiring the 4L60 since it is an improved version of the 700R4

"IF it was easy.....I wouldn't want to do it"

 

700R4 is a 4L60 , E is for electronic shift that has electronic solenoids controlling the shift

4L60E requires a computer to control shift solenoids https://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml?g...iABEgLlOfD_BwE

700 requires a cruise control brake light switch and TCC vacuum switch connected to Ported vacuum to control Lockup and a TV cable connected to the Carburetor

 

Eric P...thanks for the info. I will scrap the idea of the fully Electronic version.
I wanted a "newer" 4L60E transmission, but it seems the piggy bank wants the basic 4L60 .
It would be used for long road trips as well as a daily driver.

Thanks again for the advice

 

you just need a 4th gear. not a high-tech 4th gear... 200r another option. same length as 400. less adapting. but a teenager trying to blow it up will succeed.

 

Hey DG, if you install the 4 spd, below is what you need to make it even more 'interesting'. We've had 7 '83-'84 Hurst/Olds with the Lightning Rods, and they're fun to use. They work like the good old Lenco. I think I still have two out in the garage some place. You know how that goes.........

Have fun! Paul

 

I had the same thoughts a couple of years ago with my 71 and decided on the 700R4 for a couple of reasons.
I wanted the higher first gear and slightly lower forth gear over the 200R4 even though the 200R4 would have been a much easier process overall.


The 4L60E controller was expensive (in Canada) and it didn't integrate with my ZZ6 EFI controller like the LS and 4L60E combos. The 4L60E has an electronic speedo needing a decision on a few different options to choose from whether electronic speedo or electronic to mechanical box or GPS speedo, etc.

I went with a 700R4 with a mechanical speedo tail housing for the 40 – 45 tooth driven gears with a 45 tooth driven gear and 18 tooth drive gear for my 3:36 diff and 25” to 27” tire size. TCC lockup relay to the brake switch. TV cable for the ZZ6 EFI throttle body bracket (Edelbrock ProFlo4).

The flexplate that came with the ZZ6 was already the three bolt style so I used a 2200 RPM torque convertor.

I found a 27 spline “Spicer 2-3-7091X” yoke that has u-joint straps (C3 Corvette TH350 yoke). This retained the 1330 series U-Joints on both ends of the drive shaft and the straps will make it easier if I ever have to remove the driveshaft rather than having u-bolts. I shortened the driveshaft about 3-1/2”.

I used a G-Force Crossmember Model: RCC3-700 that has the parking brake wheel mount. You can use the stock crossmember and make a bracket but bubba did something funky with my crossmember…

The Shiftworks shifter kit for the 68-71 Corvette (SC2401) worked well. I had to drilled out the spot welds of the three speed shifter indent on the shifter bracket and bolted in the Shiftworks four indent.

A couple of things left to do, install the steering column cable lock, adapt the TH400 cable bracket to the transmission pan bolts. Cut off the cable pin ear of the TH400 shifter pivot and weld it onto the new shiftworks shifter pivot bracket (the two pivots have different angles to them).

With the Spicer 2-3-7091X yoke sticking out an extra inch and with the big u-joint head, I have to cut and fir out a 6”x6” square of fiberglass on the the passenger side tunnel to make just a bit more room for it to spin or cut the inch off the yoke and add that length to the driveshaft. Still not decided.

All in all, its a bit of work but fun as hell.

Cheers,
Richard

 

The 200 is the same length as the TH350, not the 400.

 

Thanks Members..You guys have helped alot,.
I'll go with the base 4L60 and enjoy the .7ratio 4th gear/lockout'

800rpm X 60min. = 4800 per hr, X8 hrs. = 38,400 rpm

There's nothing like saving the 50 y.o. engine 38,000 rpm during an 8 hour road trip!

I did manage to fight the spine pain and bring one of the headlight assy into the house to install the rebuild kit
(Precious didn't even scream about it being on her granite counter top

 

i put a 700r4 in my '72 a few years ago as we don't have the 200-4r here in Australia.

after all the stuffing around, if i was to do it again, i would go modern 4L60E with stand alone computer.

better control and adaptability in setting up. sure it's a bit more expense at the start, fully adjustable without getting your hands dirty.

 

ok, stand alone controllers. around 500 bucks. boneyard 4l60 and 4l80 trans. around 500 bucks. most 96-up vortec 350 trucks got junked for the intake manifold gasket. i got my box truck cheap for that reason. 700r are getting scarce. something to contemplate.

 

I hear Ya...I read your thread half a dozen times...you did a great job documenting it.



I can get a complete 4L60 non electric for $100 and wire in an adjustable vacuum shift switch, a brake switch, and an O/D Off-On pushbutton switch, for another $100....machine a driveshaft to-fit........and go for a ride to adjust the shift

I'll keeps ya'll updated as I want to remove the engine/trans to clean repaint the engine bay engine in the next couple weeks.

 

^^^^ Ingenuity is the mother of invention. I like your style!

 

I see the controller for $500 on Summit. When I went to do this, it was $1600 Canadian from GM Performance...

 

500 is 1600 canadian... JK.

 

Isn't that the truth.

It actually went up in price LOL
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19332775.html

 

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/75e1e0cd-f8d0-4a0d-a743-cdee28b02a28[/img]

chart is not correct on housing , it should read
4L60 and 700R4 are one and the same
4L60E is one piece housing just like 700R4
4L65 has the removable bell housing
4L70E has the removable bell housing with a extra top bolt for 6.0 LS

 

Thanks Eric. I removed the bellhousing column completely along with the 4L65E row to keep the info relevant to this thread.

Cheers,
Richard

 

Thanks members...there is so much info on these types of transmissions that half the battle is sorting it out

 

I do the "What ifs"...you guys come up with the answers that are hard to find

 

She is a keeper for sure. I am headed down the black hole of kitchen updating with Joan. The Rabbit is on the back burner.