No Brakes?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2021
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From: Florida
No Brakes?
Hey y'all,
I just finished installing a full set of brake parts on my barn find '77 and cant seem to understand why I had no brakes. I bled them all in order with a solid stream coming form each caliper, but still nothing. Everything is new from the lines off the Master Cylinder to the pads. Any help would be appreciated.
Unrelated note: my rear tires are making a loud clunking noise while spinning, and I'm able to wiggle the tires in and out a good 1/2 inch. Would this be warn or empty bearings or Universal joints?
Thanks!
I just finished installing a full set of brake parts on my barn find '77 and cant seem to understand why I had no brakes. I bled them all in order with a solid stream coming form each caliper, but still nothing. Everything is new from the lines off the Master Cylinder to the pads. Any help would be appreciated.
Unrelated note: my rear tires are making a loud clunking noise while spinning, and I'm able to wiggle the tires in and out a good 1/2 inch. Would this be warn or empty bearings or Universal joints?
Thanks!
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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First I'll point out the obvious, there must be a thousand threads on here pertaining to this very issue. couldn't hurt to do a google search for C3 Corvette bleeding brakes.
second, did you bench bleed the master? have you tried jacking up the back of the car to get the master level or slightly pointing down at the front? Have you tapped on the calipers when bleeding?
Do NOT use a suction type bleeder with lip seal calipers. Do use a pressure type bleeder that clamps on the top of the master.
much info on past bleeding threads on how to make up a pressure bleeder.
Best of luck.
second, did you bench bleed the master? have you tried jacking up the back of the car to get the master level or slightly pointing down at the front? Have you tapped on the calipers when bleeding?
Do NOT use a suction type bleeder with lip seal calipers. Do use a pressure type bleeder that clamps on the top of the master.
much info on past bleeding threads on how to make up a pressure bleeder.
Best of luck.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,248
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
As per your second concern. is movement at 6 and 12? or also at 3 and 9? yokes in rear diff's are prone to excessive wear on 77's. causing excessive end play. rear wheel bearings are also known to bite the dust. U joints in a 44 year old car are also suspect. This is a old car that has been sitting for a long time. expect to rebuild EVERYTHING!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 49
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From: Florida
@4-vettes The majority of the play seems to be 6 and 12, with minor play at 3 and 9. I also thought it could be U-joints at first, but they have no play in them at all and seem fine. I haven't heard of a rear diff yoke before, how would I check that? Finally, would you know any tricks for getting my hubs off to check the bearings? I know on most cars it's just four bolts and a slide hammer, but with the posi-axle I don't want to damage anything.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by arc_johnpiv; Mar 30, 2021 at 05:28 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
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From: Cool Northern Michigan
Swapping out rear wheel bearings is not for the average Joe. It takes special tools that few of us even want to own.
Having said that, most owners ship the rear hub assembly off to the pros for a rebuild (core charge).
I doubt its the bearings. Too many other factors come into play.
Another place to look for rear suspension play you described is the trailing arms. More specifically the front of the arm, attached to the frame. Again, another job not well adored.
And last but not least is the strut rod bushings. Rotten old rubber allows excessive camber of the rear tires.
I think your first step is to start collecting Corvette Part catalogs. Then you can get a visual of what parts are supposed to look like new, and what your parts look like.
On your brake issue: 99.9% of the time is residual air bubbles somewhere in the lines. And in my opinion, the less you touch the brake pedal during the bleeding process the better off you are. If you don't have the specialty tools for the job, consider and long drawn-out gravity bleed. Open all four bleeders in the rear, with a piece of clear hose on each one, dripping into a water bottle. Then do the front two.
The brake rotors are riveted on and require drilling out for removal.
Having said that, most owners ship the rear hub assembly off to the pros for a rebuild (core charge).
I doubt its the bearings. Too many other factors come into play.
Another place to look for rear suspension play you described is the trailing arms. More specifically the front of the arm, attached to the frame. Again, another job not well adored.
And last but not least is the strut rod bushings. Rotten old rubber allows excessive camber of the rear tires.
I think your first step is to start collecting Corvette Part catalogs. Then you can get a visual of what parts are supposed to look like new, and what your parts look like.
On your brake issue: 99.9% of the time is residual air bubbles somewhere in the lines. And in my opinion, the less you touch the brake pedal during the bleeding process the better off you are. If you don't have the specialty tools for the job, consider and long drawn-out gravity bleed. Open all four bleeders in the rear, with a piece of clear hose on each one, dripping into a water bottle. Then do the front two.
The brake rotors are riveted on and require drilling out for removal.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Mar 31, 2021 at 08:50 AM.
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Well, your in for a treat! your Corvette doesn't have a "Posi axle". It has independent rear suspension. it has a possi diff. then half shafts connected to stub axles mounted in your trailing arms. the half shaft connects to the diff with a U joint mounted to the Yoke I was referring to. crawl under the car. look up where the half shaft meets the diff. have a friend grab the wheel at 6 and 12 and rock the wheel in and out while you look at the yoke going into the diff. more than about .050 clearance and you have a big problem. Hardened yokes are available. but watch out, some are better than others. rebuilding the diff is unlike any other car. I suggest you start reading alot.
