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Hopefully this weekend I will have some time to tackle the first of many projects on my 69 unsticking the stuck levers. The heater control wheel and vent levers both in the console and on the dash for the passenger side are stuck/ frozen. The one in the dash I think I can pop that out wd40 it and get it moving again. The wheel and lever in the console is that a long wire type thing similar to a motorcycle throttle or is it something else entirely ? Can I pop those out some how and wd40 those also.
now the tricky one the headlight switch it frozen in. I can’t remove it or get the lever out because it’s stuck in place. Any ideas on that one ?
Not sure how to proceed with the thumbwheel controls, but I have some suggestions for your other issues.
Since the stuck vent controls are both on the passenger side, I'd guess a water leak on that side has caused some rust.
Remove the passenger side door sill plate which will then let you remove the pass side kick panel. You'll then see the oblong vent door and the bowden cable that runs back to the vent control lever on the console. If there's a rust issue at that end, it may be visible, either on the hinge parts of the vent door, or on the end of the cable. A good penetrating lubricant spray may free up some movement (I use Aerokroil). See if you can direct any spray into the cable sheath where the cable itself comes out.
The linkage behind the black **** may also be rusted. Ideally, remove the pass side lower dash panel for complete and easy access to that entire ****/linkage/vent mechanism to see what's going on, and to give you the best access for repair. If you don't want to remove the panel, you still will have some limited access to lube the linkage, though it won't be as complete as with the panel off.
For your headlight switch, I'm guessing you mean that you can't remove the **** and rod out of the switch behind the dashboard. If my guess is correct, you need to either remove the upper dash pad, or lower the drivers side lower pad (will require lowering or removal of the steering column) to gain access to the switch behind the panel. There is a small metal spring-loaded button that needs to be depressed to allow the ****/rod to be removed. The button is circled in blue on the attached photo.
Zip and others sell a rebuild kit for the heater controls (two large wheels in the center of the console). Do not use WD40. Use a good penetrating oil like the one mentioned above. For the vent controls (two levers in the console on either side of the heater controls), remove the kick panels and inspect the vent doors where the cables connect. You can then inspect the body mounts behind the kick panels for rust if you haven’t already (I’m a bit worried about what you may find). If the cables are truly frozen, you will need to remove them which can be a pain. I’ve then had success putting them in a ziplock bag, inserting the tip of a penetrating oil straw into the bag and to both ends of the cable and spraying away forcing as much as possible into the cable. Then seal the bag(s) and leave them for a week. Finally, the light switch. You have to be able to remove the **** shaft to remove the switch. Your post is not clear on whether the shaft is stuck and won’t move at all (again, worrisome) or operates normally, but you can’t pull it all the way out as you haven’t accessed the switch to depress the button. If it is the worrisome answer, the switch is toast and you need to free that shaft and remove it. Again penetrating oil is your friend. Good luck!
You will need to remove the shift console. This would be a good time to restore your shift console plate. I notice the 4 screws are removed. Now remove the 2 vent *****. There are little screws on them. Then remove the gear shift ****. Lift the panel up. Then remove the 2 screws that hold the fiber optic panel on. The panel should lift off. It is made of metal, but don't break it. Remove the lighter door. Carefully remove the shift pattern plate, it is glued on. Then either use some paint remover to get the old crusted paint off or sand the black carefully. Get some flat or satin black interior paint for metal. Spray the entire panel, wait until it is dry then use a razor blade/exacto blade and carefully scrape the letters and trim areas off. Just like new. If you remove the entire center console, the left/right fiber optic panel can also be redone the same way. Good luck.
You will need to remove the shift console. This would be a good time to restore your shift console plate. I notice the 4 screws are removed. Now remove the 2 vent *****. There are little screws on them. Then remove the gear shift ****. Lift the panel up. Then remove the 2 screws that hold the fiber optic panel on. The panel should lift off. It is made of metal, but don't break it. Remove the lighter door. Carefully remove the shift pattern plate, it is glued on. Then either use some paint remover to get the old crusted paint off or sand the black carefully. Get some flat or satin black interior paint for metal. Spray the entire panel, wait until it is dry then use a razor blade/exacto blade and carefully scrape the letters and trim areas off. Just like new. If you remove the entire center console, the left/right fiber optic panel can also be redone the same way. Good luck.
You just introduced OP to While I’m in there Syndrom!
For your headlight switch, I'm guessing you mean that you can't remove the **** and rod out of the switch behind the dashboard. If my guess is correct, you need to either remove the upper dash pad, or lower the drivers side lower pad (will require lowering or removal of the steering column) to gain access to the switch behind the panel. There is a small metal spring-loaded button that needs to be depressed to allow the ****/rod to be removed. The button is circled in blue on the attached photo.
Good luck w/your[/QUOTE]
so the head light switch is frozen in place like I can’t pull it to activate the lights it’s stuck in the off position.
Can you turn it? Turning the **** dims the dash lights and turns on the interior lights. If it turns, but you can’t pull it out you have something to work with. Get the penetrating oil straw as tight into the point where the **** meets the switch and spray it while turning the know one way then the other. If you can get it turning, you can then work on pulling it out. Once the **** and shaft are removed, you can remove the switch for inspection/replacement.
Can you turn it? Turning the **** dims the dash lights and turns on the interior lights. If it turns, but you can’t pull it out you have something to work with. Get the penetrating oil straw as tight into the point where the **** meets the switch and spray it while turning the know one way then the other. If you can get it turning, you can then work on pulling it out. Once the **** and shaft are removed, you can remove the switch for inspection/replacement.
good call. yes it turns side to side. Just a stab in the dark I think it’s the same switch as my 69 fire bird. Gotta love the gm parts bin. I just don’t wanna get penetrating oil on the dash. The dash leather or what ever coating is on it is still nice would suck to satin it. So I Geuss it’s just a little at at time.
Last edited by Bluegoose95401; Apr 14, 2021 at 02:29 PM.
Does a firebird use vacuum for the headlights? Not that familiar with the Firebird. The ‘69 Corvette has a vacuum control you can see on the picture posted by Catfish above.
The bottom line is you need to remove it. You can carefully tape plastic around it or remove the dash panels, disconnect the switch and spray it out of the car which is what I would do since you have to open the dash to replace it anyway.
Does a firebird use vacuum for the headlights? Not that familiar with the Firebird. The ‘69 Corvette has a vacuum control you can see on the picture posted by Catfish above.
The bottom line is you need to remove it. You can carefully tape plastic around it or remove the dash panels, disconnect the switch and spray it out of the car which is what I would do since you have to open the dash to replace it anyway.
Does a firebird use vacuum for the headlights? Not that familiar with the Firebird. The ‘69 Corvette has a vacuum control you can see on the picture posted by Catfish above.
The bottom line is you need to remove it. You can carefully tape plastic around it or remove the dash panels, disconnect the switch and spray it out of the car which is what I would do since you have to open the dash to replace it anyway.
how hard is that dash panel to remove in waiting on the AIm
You just introduced OP to While I’m in there Syndrom!
I’m quite familiar with while I’m there syndrome. WITS is the reason my truck got a new timing chain cam lifters heads decked. I swear all I needed to do was put a new clutch in.
Do not use WD40. Use a good penetrating oil like the one mentioned above.
(I’m a bit worried about what you may find). If the cables are truly frozen.
if it is the worrisome answer, the switch is toast and you need to free that shaft and remove it. Again penetrating oil is your friend. Good luck!
I popped the sill plates and the kick panels out before I bought the car. The bird cage under the kicks has a little surface rust but not much it’s mostly still the factory green. And the area around the Windsheild looks solid too.
why don’t you guys like wd40 I’m not set on any brands I’m just curious.
they could just be stuck because the car had been sitting since 2010 with out being touched or moved.
Last edited by Bluegoose95401; Apr 15, 2021 at 07:21 AM.
On the contrary, I love WD40! Just not as a penetrating oil when there are better options. It doesn’t have the oils and solvents that others contain. It is better as a protector and lubricant. WD stands for water displacement and it works well for that purpose, but makes some compromises as a penetrant in order to do everything else well.
Got all the ***** freed up and working minus the driver side kick panel door which might have to be replaced the pin to hold it in is pretty bent up and the seal is pretty shot. Thank for the help guys.
Frozen ***** and ideas to in freeze them
