Wheel noise........
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,840
Likes: 65
From: Tree City
Wheel noise........
I have a loud grinding sound coming from the passenger side rear wheel of my 1978 Corvette. I can't tell if it's the brake that has gone through the pad or the wheel bearing. I pulled the wheel off to look at the pads. The outer pad looks okay but I can't really see the inner pad. Is there a way to tell what the problem is?
I have jacked the back of the car up off of the ground and put it in gear and it is definitely coming from that wheel.
I guess I'll have to wait until I get back off of vacation and have it towed and have it fixed.
Is this bearing hard to find/buy if it is the bearing? If it's the brakes should I just order them from Erters or Mid American? Is there some way to find out what the problem is?
I replaced that bearing about 15 - 20 years ago and I'm thinking maybe it went bad again.
Any opinions??
I have jacked the back of the car up off of the ground and put it in gear and it is definitely coming from that wheel.
I guess I'll have to wait until I get back off of vacation and have it towed and have it fixed.
Is this bearing hard to find/buy if it is the bearing? If it's the brakes should I just order them from Erters or Mid American? Is there some way to find out what the problem is?
I replaced that bearing about 15 - 20 years ago and I'm thinking maybe it went bad again.
Any opinions??
Last edited by Jimmy W1; Jul 10, 2021 at 02:11 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,226
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
If it has a grinding sound when you are not applying the brakes, it could be a stuck piston in your caliper, bad flex hose, or your bearing.
Force the pads apart a little and spin the wheel by hand to see if you still have the sound.
FYI, many people think that running the car with the trailing arm fully down is bad for your U joints.
Most parts for our cars can be bought from your local parts store. No need to go to a dedicated Corvette store and usually pay more $$.
Force the pads apart a little and spin the wheel by hand to see if you still have the sound.
FYI, many people think that running the car with the trailing arm fully down is bad for your U joints.
Most parts for our cars can be bought from your local parts store. No need to go to a dedicated Corvette store and usually pay more $$.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,840
Likes: 65
From: Tree City
Are you talking about that pin that is up on top of the calipers? I'm afraid of taking it apart and then not being able to get it back together to get the car on the Wrecker and have it towed somewhere. I can't get my head up above the wheel to see if the pads are worn. The rotors or not scratched at all. I think I caught it when the noise was just beginning. So there are no grooves in the rotor at all. Are the calipers easy to get back together once you take them apart?
I have replaced brake pads on other cars on the front wheels before, but never on a Corvette wheel on the rear.
Do I have to remove the brake line if I do a brake job on the rear wheels? I would hate to snap off one of those connections on the brake lines.
I can see the outside pad and it does not look that bad. But I cannot see the inside pad to see if it is worn.
I have replaced brake pads on other cars on the front wheels before, but never on a Corvette wheel on the rear.
Do I have to remove the brake line if I do a brake job on the rear wheels? I would hate to snap off one of those connections on the brake lines.
I can see the outside pad and it does not look that bad. But I cannot see the inside pad to see if it is worn.
Last edited by Jimmy W1; Jul 10, 2021 at 02:49 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,226
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
If you're not mechanically inclined, or adventurous, I think you should not drive the car and try to find a mechanic that is familiar with Corvette brakes and rear bearings.
From your posts, I suspect it could very well be a bearing.
After thought. Jack up the wheel under the trailing arm to keep it in approximately driving position and spin the wheel by hand.
Can you tell if it a pad or parking brake dragging or a rough grinding sound?
From your posts, I suspect it could very well be a bearing.
After thought. Jack up the wheel under the trailing arm to keep it in approximately driving position and spin the wheel by hand.
Can you tell if it a pad or parking brake dragging or a rough grinding sound?
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Take pics for us to study. Also take pics of the part you are about to remove so you can refer to the pic when reassembling the part.
Replace the inexpensive parts first...that may solve the problem.
You do not have to disassemble the entire caliper or remove it to check pads....see comment below...after you remove the pin and take the pads out of the caliper--spin the rotor to see if the noise is still there (Sometimes the parking brake assembly INSIDE the back of the rotor come aloose and make loud noises)
Sayfoo
Once your wheel is off, you should be able to look at the pads from above the caliper.
Or, pull the pin holding the pads in, force the pads apart a bit and pull them out.
Replace the inexpensive parts first...that may solve the problem.
You do not have to disassemble the entire caliper or remove it to check pads....see comment below...after you remove the pin and take the pads out of the caliper--spin the rotor to see if the noise is still there (Sometimes the parking brake assembly INSIDE the back of the rotor come aloose and make loud noises)
Sayfoo
Once your wheel is off, you should be able to look at the pads from above the caliper.
Or, pull the pin holding the pads in, force the pads apart a bit and pull them out.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,840
Likes: 65
From: Tree City
Okay. I will try taking off the wheel again and checking it again. I thought that maybe the parking brake had stuck on but the cable that goes to the brake is not tight. So I was ruling out a stuck parking brake. But I will look at it again and let you know.
As I stated earlier, I have done brakes in the front several times on cars such as Sunfires and Thunderbirds that I have had in the past without any problems. I was just leery about messing with the rear brakes on my Corvette. But I will check it out again. I will let you know what happens when I do the things that you guys have told me. Thanks for now.
As I stated earlier, I have done brakes in the front several times on cars such as Sunfires and Thunderbirds that I have had in the past without any problems. I was just leery about messing with the rear brakes on my Corvette. But I will check it out again. I will let you know what happens when I do the things that you guys have told me. Thanks for now.
Last edited by Jimmy W1; Jul 10, 2021 at 08:15 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
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From: Indiana
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,212
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From: Gainesville, Florida
All this talk about pulling the pin, makes me think back about basic training on the grenade course where we were told to pull the pin and throw the grenade. Surprisingly no veterans have chimed in on that one.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,600
Likes: 7,046
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
it was the Flight engineer's job to pick 'em up and throw 'em back to the enemy.
Our F.E. was very very fast....he did bounce one off the top of my flight helmet once...
turns out---when he yelled
D U C K !
he was already throwing it
Last edited by doorgunner; Jul 11, 2021 at 07:17 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 9,435
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From: Powassan ON
Is the rotor still riveted on?
drill the rivits and pull the e brake parts and reinstall rotor, check for noise.
possible the pads separated
rust on the rotor rubbing on the dust shield?
stone lodged somewhere rubbing on the rotor?
drill the rivits and pull the e brake parts and reinstall rotor, check for noise.
possible the pads separated
rust on the rotor rubbing on the dust shield?
stone lodged somewhere rubbing on the rotor?