69 Manual to Power Steering Conversion Question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 874
Likes: 115
From: Round Hill Virginia
69 Manual to Power Steering Conversion Question
First, I did not go with the Borgeson kit, instead decided to go with a stock OE setup. My question is this: Should the control valve seat all the way on the drag link for or is it okay as long as the clamp bolt goes through the slot as it should to do its job? In order to set the clamping bolt in the cutout the control valve is 1/4" from seating flush. Even not trying to run the clamp bolt in it seems to bottom out just before fully seating. Mocking everything up it seems to be fine just looks off. These are part of a conversion kit and are new (repos). I'll contact eh vendor I got the kit from but if anyone could weigh in on this I'd appreciate it, and if you have any photos of a similar conversion that would be great too!
Last edited by nix1981; Aug 1, 2021 at 08:34 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 333
From: Southampton MA
I converted my '69 coupe to power steering and learned a lot.
Don't forget the power steering idler arm. There is a slight difference in the manual and power steering
versions. Finally figured it out after taking it all apart and checking each component twice.
That's when I looked in the Paragon catalog and noticed two different idler arms. Maybe you already
have it covered. Good luck!
Don't forget the power steering idler arm. There is a slight difference in the manual and power steering
versions. Finally figured it out after taking it all apart and checking each component twice.
That's when I looked in the Paragon catalog and noticed two different idler arms. Maybe you already
have it covered. Good luck!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,179
Likes: 3,999
From: Connecticut, USA
PS arms are #383's Manual are #451- last 3 cast in digits.
There is a gap with the control valve, the AIM shows it, the d- flat limits location.
Do you have the nut pinned for the arm to valve? I see you have the original sector in the box, is the box dialed in for high lash?
There is a gap with the control valve, the AIM shows it, the d- flat limits location.
Do you have the nut pinned for the arm to valve? I see you have the original sector in the box, is the box dialed in for high lash?
Last edited by GTR1999; Aug 1, 2021 at 09:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 874
Likes: 115
From: Round Hill Virginia
Originally Posted by A10pilot
I converted my '69 coupe to power steering and learned a lot.
Don't forget the power steering idler arm. There is a slight difference in the manual and power steering
versions. Finally figured it out after taking it all apart and checking each component twice.
That's when I looked in the Paragon catalog and noticed two different idler arms. Maybe you already
have it covered. Good luck!
Don't forget the power steering idler arm. There is a slight difference in the manual and power steering
versions. Finally figured it out after taking it all apart and checking each component twice.
That's when I looked in the Paragon catalog and noticed two different idler arms. Maybe you already
have it covered. Good luck!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 874
Likes: 115
From: Round Hill Virginia
I'm assuming you're talking about the pitman arm? I changed that from the manual to the PS version. I'll need to check the #'s.
Any idea what the page number is for the control valve photo?
My steering box was just rebuilt by a very reputable vender. Should it be set differently? They were aware of what I was doing but I didn't specifically say.
I also have some parts from previous builds etc. I chose to use everything from the most recent kit but have a different idler that has no grease fittings but foes have a GM number. The pitman arms seem to match your numbers; manual vs. power.
Manual
Power
Any idea what the page number is for the control valve photo?
My steering box was just rebuilt by a very reputable vender. Should it be set differently? They were aware of what I was doing but I didn't specifically say.
I also have some parts from previous builds etc. I chose to use everything from the most recent kit but have a different idler that has no grease fittings but foes have a GM number. The pitman arms seem to match your numbers; manual vs. power.
Manual
Power
Last edited by nix1981; Aug 1, 2021 at 10:38 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,179
Likes: 3,999
From: Connecticut, USA
Clearly looks like you are doing a body off and everything on the frame is new. Really looks good.
So you know which arms are correct that's good. The box question was to save you any future issue. Since the sector is original or an original one I am assuming the worm is as well. Steering boxes from 70-82 have D-Flats in them and that is supposed to be on true center which should also be high lash, but rarely are. Did you get any paperwork with it noting the relationship between the D-Flat- center- high lash? If you did not and want to confirm where it is you can remove the box and use a dial TW to check it. Hopefully it is the original box and not an exchange box you have. The position of the lash bolt in the cover will reveal a lot too. I have no reason to doubt anything just making some notes.
So you know which arms are correct that's good. The box question was to save you any future issue. Since the sector is original or an original one I am assuming the worm is as well. Steering boxes from 70-82 have D-Flats in them and that is supposed to be on true center which should also be high lash, but rarely are. Did you get any paperwork with it noting the relationship between the D-Flat- center- high lash? If you did not and want to confirm where it is you can remove the box and use a dial TW to check it. Hopefully it is the original box and not an exchange box you have. The position of the lash bolt in the cover will reveal a lot too. I have no reason to doubt anything just making some notes.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 874
Likes: 115
From: Round Hill Virginia
Clearly looks like you are doing a body off and everything on the frame is new. Really looks good.
So you know which arms are correct that's good. The box question was to save you any future issue. Since the sector is original or an original one I am assuming the worm is as well. Steering boxes from 70-82 have D-Flats in them and that is supposed to be on true center which should also be high lash, but rarely are. Did you get any paperwork with it noting the relationship between the D-Flat- center- high lash? If you did not and want to confirm where it is you can remove the box and use a dial TW to check it. Hopefully it is the original box and not an exchange box you have. The position of the lash bolt in the cover will reveal a lot too. I have no reason to doubt anything just making some notes.
So you know which arms are correct that's good. The box question was to save you any future issue. Since the sector is original or an original one I am assuming the worm is as well. Steering boxes from 70-82 have D-Flats in them and that is supposed to be on true center which should also be high lash, but rarely are. Did you get any paperwork with it noting the relationship between the D-Flat- center- high lash? If you did not and want to confirm where it is you can remove the box and use a dial TW to check it. Hopefully it is the original box and not an exchange box you have. The position of the lash bolt in the cover will reveal a lot too. I have no reason to doubt anything just making some notes.
It started as just an oil change...kidding, but it is certainly a bad case of might as well.... 
I enjoy it though. It is the original box and was rebuilt (among other things) by Bair's. It's an early 69 (Oct 68) and does not have the D flat you're talking about. The marked it TDC sort of with a dot. I marked the rotation of the pitman arm in relation to the marked center dot and had equal swing left and right. So I think it's at center. I'm going to call them in a bit to talk about lash and whether there's a different setting for a PS car or not. They said the boxes where the same no matter if it was manual or power.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 874
Likes: 115
From: Round Hill Virginia
So...is the gap between the drag link bar and the control valve "OK" then? The clamp bolt is lined up with the slot so it can't go anywhere...it just looks not right....
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,179
Likes: 3,999
From: Connecticut, USA
The gap is tighter on my ps cars, however I didn't get a chance to look at the AIM to see the notation on it. It's in there and I was thinking it was 060" but that might be way off.
The boxes are the same for power and manual. I was referencing what was marked - the true center or high lash. Bairs does good work. If you want to know just to know and have the 0-30 dial TW I would be happy to walk you through it.
The boxes are the same for power and manual. I was referencing what was marked - the true center or high lash. Bairs does good work. If you want to know just to know and have the 0-30 dial TW I would be happy to walk you through it.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 275
Likes: 31
I did the same conversion. I ended up changing the repro control valve- that later leaked ( most will) with a rebuilt oem from lone star. Also, Iam sure you know, please note that you must adjust the control valve after installation with motor running.