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Replacing 77 C3 windshield

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Old Aug 16, 2021 | 01:29 PM
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Default Replacing 77 C3 windshield

Hi, two questions for anyone that has replaced a windshield on a 77 coupe.
Using 3M urethane to bond and was going to use a windshield support foam on the inside of the urethane to support the windshield at the correct height while the urethane dries.
Two questions:
1. I can't get the T-Top chrome windshield cross-trim panels off after extracting the screws, what is factory underneath that would make it hard to pry up to without damaging/bending the chrome panels. Any suggestions appreciated.



2. Is 3/8s the correct height for the windshield support tape to keep the windshield at the correct height from the windshield frame?
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Old Aug 20, 2021 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RAM77
Hi, two questions for anyone that has replaced a windshield on a 77 coupe.
Using 3M urethane to bond and was going to use a windshield support foam on the inside of the urethane to support the windshield at the correct height while the urethane dries.
Two questions:
1. I can't get the T-Top chrome windshield cross-trim panels off after extracting the screws, what is factory underneath that would make it hard to pry up to without damaging/bending the chrome panels. Any suggestions appreciated.



2. Is 3/8s the correct height for the windshield support tape to keep the windshield at the correct height from the windshield frame?
I did this a few months back on my 78. I used 5/16" foam from a windshield company and 3M Urethane windshield adhesive. Hardest part is outlining the windshield and getting the foam tape lined up on the inside edge. Then do the urethane and drop the window down (I used suction cups from harbor freight) and did through the open Tops as it was easier and I could align and leverage it easier. It takes a while though, make sure you clean fix and POR15 the window frame before the new windshield goes on as you won't be taking it off for a while.

I think 3/8" the correct height but mine fits fine and I could only get the 5/16" at the time. They did provide foam spacing adhesive blocks so I could line up the windshield at the right height to get the outlining done and mark fitment without worrying about the windshield hitting the frame.

Chrome trim is held on with screws but also they used a foam/butyl to seal on some areas. Which you will have to replicate on the reinstall.
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Old Aug 20, 2021 | 01:51 PM
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Thanks!
I believe 3/8 is the right height but I will verify. While I don't want the windshield trim to be forced on, I don't want gaps between the glass and trim either. That's my biggest concern is it ends up looking sloppy.
The Butyl tape must be what is holding the windshield side chrome trim down.
Did you take the trim off to install the windshield?
If so any tricks to prying it up without damaging the chrome trim?
Did you take off the Dashboard off to do the outline for the support tape?
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Old Aug 20, 2021 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RAM77
Thanks!
I believe 3/8 is the right height but I will verify. While I don't want the windshield trim to be forced on, I don't want gaps between the glass and trim either. That's my biggest concern is it ends up looking sloppy.
The Butyl tape must be what is holding the windshield side chrome trim down.
Did you take the trim off to install the windshield?
If so any tricks to prying it up without damaging the chrome trim?
Did you take off the Dashboard off to do the outline for the support tape?
I thought you said T-top chrome center trim... the big T stainless cover. That has butly/foam tape/sealer of some kind on it. The side trim is held on by screws under the side window weather stripping (you must remove the weather stripping I think). Side trim should come right off with the screws removed on the seal side of the Apillar.

When I got the car it had no windshield (it was smashed) and all the trim was removed already. I mocked up all the trim to see how it would install to make sure like you said the windshield trim would lay flat on it. The top chrome trim (top of windshield but not the T-top trim) is held in by clips which are screwed into the top of the windshield frame (its best to replace those before putting in the new windshield as you won't be able to get to them after its in) that just pops out of the clips, Try using a stiff nylon pry bar.

I did have the dash already removed, I don't see how you could do a great or accurate job with it installed.

I would prepare yourself for the window frame and possible rot.
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Old Aug 20, 2021 | 03:41 PM
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Yea sorry, I confused the conversation when I misspoke and said windshield side trim associated with the windshield replacement. Yes, I'm replacing the clips for the exterior windshield trim that runs along the top and the vertical windshield trim is all removed ready to go.
What I meant in asking was about the wider chrome trim along the interior side of the windshield frame, along the top that the T-Top rests on. After taking out the screws and gently prying it would not come up but I think you are right that there is probably Butyl tape underneath, I didn't want to pry to hard and screw it up.
Also, glad you verified, I was thinking it would be more accurate to mark the windshield with the dashboard off.
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Old Aug 20, 2021 | 03:55 PM
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Yup, no worries.

The T-top Stainless cover trim used adhesive foam or something on the leading edge (along the whole front edge of the windshield) and at the back near the top part that rests near the back of the T-tops. If someone was in there before its common to use the 3M butyl sticky stuff which when pressed acts like a glue. Someone could have used silicone, urethane, or I've even seen clay stuffed in the windshield to cavity to fill the space. I would pry from the back as that should come up easier... if yours has never been removed look for the rivets at the rear... you will need to drill those out to remove them.
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Old Aug 20, 2021 | 04:11 PM
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just make sure you put the top windshield trim clips on before the windshield. you can not get them after glass s in. try to save the windshield top trim clips. the replacements are a little bigger. and trim screws especially on the side. you may have to find the hole and screw the screw part way in and figure the depth you need. then cut a screw down to the right length. one of my screws only went through 1 layer of the pinch weld. and fit the glass carefully. i paid a glass guy to do it. he said he would get it at the correct height. then he did his standard bead of urethane and glued the glass down 1/4 inch too deep.
and 3/8 is supposed to be correct dam height with new glass. 5/16th for the thicker orig glass.

Last edited by derekderek; Aug 20, 2021 at 04:12 PM.
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