It shouldn't any more; I sealed it up yesterday.

 

- I think he was taking about the picture that I sent

 

So I put sealer on the bolt threads and it stopped the puddles on my intake but there’s still little bits of oil where the intake bolts to the block just no more puddles on the intake so I don’t get why there’s still a little oil when I sealed all the bolts

 

I am by no means an engine builder, but was told by a Corvette Service Shop to use this product for the oil weeping at the intake bolts.

Good up to 400 degrees

 

Putting sealant ,on the bolts , only sealed the bolts but didn`t seal the intake gasket . It sounds like oil is leaking from the china wall area . If so you will need to R&R intake gasket . A picture will help . I don`t want to give you wrong repair advice

 

-I used permatex ultra black good up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit

 

Oil leaking from either China wall tends to run downward onto bellhousing or the timing cover pad.

There is absolutely no pressure from the crankcase in reference to the Intake bolts leaking. However, those bolt will and do "wick" oil mist from the lifter valley.

1973bluevette,
No offense, but you have the crappiest Intake Manifold bolts one could buy, sorry. They appear to be twenty-five cent hardware from Ace with a ten cent washer.
Those type of washers do not seal well and are prone to gouging the soft aluminum Intakes. Those six sided bolts make things a lot harder to get a wrench / socket on too. You deserve better. Nice looking engine.

You will be a lot farther ahead with your issue if you buy the proper Intake bolts.
Looking at Summit Racing, in the search box enter SBC Intake bolts.
They have a package set, correct diameter, correct length, correct thread pitch and the correct number of bolts. Plus they have the built-in washer and are 12 sided.
All you have to do is decide on shiny Stainless or oxide black. If you buy ARPs, you will have top-of-the-line.

Then starting with the number one bolt position on the Intake, remove, dab of Permatex Black, replace with new, torque.
Then move on to number two bolt and so on.

 

- yeah they were on the intake when I bought the car not a bad idea I’ll get some off summit and do that thanks😁

 

Here’s the picture after the car has been running you can see the puddles are gone because I put sealer on all the bolts but you can still see oil at the block and where the intake meet

 

H-m-m-m-m-. A little left-over residue from bolts?

But this topic still goes back to:
PCV Valve functioning with great evacuation?
Baffle under the PVC?
PVC grommet?

Now I see wing style V. cover fasteners. You can go ahead and crank those down a little more by hand.
Those poor Intake bolts have rounded corners from abuse.

If everything runs all right, no vacuum loss, then I doubt the Intake gaskets are leaking oil.

 

-yes I have everything correct new pcv valve with grommet and baffle in my breather cap no oil coming from around any of those and new valve cover gaskets and there tightened down constantly I always check them

 

It could still be from intake gasket . If oil has been leaking for a long time , gasket is oil soaked and porous , and no amount of tightening will stop leak . I have seen this happen before from being a auto tech , for 45 years , before retiring .

 

could just be left over oil stuck in the corner. try a little carb or brake cleaner. if you do replace the intake, i like to RTV the gasket to the block. using china wall gaskets as side gasket positioners. set intake on to clamp gasket down. no sealer on top of gasket. then remove intake and check that gasket is where you want it. it is now gonna stay there. remove china wall gaskets. replace with bead of RTV. little RTV on water openings. install intake. a lot of intake gasket issues are cuz the gasket shifted during install.