When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello, my 1971 coupe, auto, 350 daily driver has done this to me three times recently. When I drive to destination then turn key to restart, nothing. No click at all.
Notes:
new Battery, confirmed 12v with meter
all wiring front to back is new and clean
starter selenoid brand new
Alternator is new
when I turn the key to start I see the draw in the voltage meter so thinking switch is good however
interesting the power windows do not work either while I am in this situation
Neutral safety switch is also new
Resolution:
connect jumper cables from another car to battery for a second, turn the key and it starts right up without touching anything.
The only old piece of equipment, except switch in column is the starter. I am thinking bad spot on starter.
Hard to triage because need to do this when can not start while not at home.
if you don't even hear a click that indicates that the starter solenoid isn't engaging.
you say all wiring is new and clean, that means new battery cables and the ground under the battery box?
what is the battery voltage exactly with engine on and engine off after sitting for awhile?
The 12V indicates you have proper voltage.
It does not indicate you have proper cranking amps.
When you swapped out the starter solenoid, did you noticed a short GRD strap / cable in that area. It goes to the block. Its almost as important as the GRD at the Batt. You would be surprised at how many of those GRDs cables are missing on C3s.
Because everything is fine, cranks, starts when a jump is involved, that should indicate the starter / solenoid & IGN switch are fine.
I would pull the Batt and have it load tested. Even new batteries can be crap right from the git-go. They sit on shelves for months without any charging induced.
Also, because it jump starts fine, perhaps the alligator clamps of the jumper cables are helping a otherwise ****-poor battery terminal connections.
Those side-post batteries are notorious for false connections because basically they are a blind connection as opposed to top-post.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 27, 2021 at 05:53 PM.
The first thing I'd do is have the battery load tested, could be a weak cell. The easiest is to check all connections especially the grounds. If all that checks good pull the starter and check the brushes inside. They are easy to replace and if it's the original starter they are probably worn to the point they need replaced.
Also check your voltage while cranking. You may have 12v static but it should stay above 10 volts or so while cranking. If it drops below 10 something is wrong with it.
As HeadsU.P said. Check your starter to frame ground in the engine bay.
Last edited by theandies; Sep 27, 2021 at 04:24 PM.
Just finishing off a frame off restoration on my 71 automatic and ran in to a similar problem…intermittent starting. Half the time it would start no issue but the other times it did what you describe. I eventually tracked it down to the neutral safety switch on the gear selector. Quick adjustment and the problem went away. Not saying that is your issue but it’s something else to check….Good Luck!
I had this issue and it was the electrical contacts in the key switch were worn. replaced this and no more problems. The electrical contacts are mounted on top of the steering column under the dash.
Many replies same here…I had the same thing on my 73 but not a daily driver…started fine mostly. Yeah you could tap the solenoid etc I just replaced the solenoid and it went away. Keep the starter it’s probably fine (and date coded) just solenoid should do it.
Thank you all for your input, it is very helpful.
When MelWff asked about cables I did not mention the battery cable to ground and starter are original. Headlights, engine bay, dash, power windows and rear lights are all new harnesses.
When HeadsU.P. mentioned the alligator clamps I started wondering the same thing. Why does it start so easily and quickly as soon as the clamps are connected and jump auto running, without doing anything else. So I pulled off the cables at the battery, removed any damaged ends, cleaned and reconnected. Also removed and cleaned the ground on the frame under the battery. Frame was sandblasted and painted so made sure this was clean spot as well.
For MelWiff, here are the voltage readings you requested:
Sitting, not running: 12.0
Cranking 10.3
Engine running at idle: 13.3
After running for about one minute: 12.5
Interesting again today started right up no issues, maybe cleaning the cables helped but not sure at this point.
I will continue to monitor but please offer any other ideas.