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Headers with AC, PDB, PS on a 78

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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 01:51 PM
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Default Headers with AC, PDB, PS on a 78

HI all, Just bought my first Vette. I'm a Mustang guy.... usually.... but always wanted a Vette. The PO replaced the factory air cleaner, intake manifold, valve covers and carb with edelbrock pieces. I'd like to go ahead and put headers on it as well. I have all the power options and AC so I'm a little concerned about fitment. There are some cheap stainless ones on e-hay probably made in China but the last set I bought for an early Mustang fit fine and looked good. Any Ideas or advice?
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 01:57 PM
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Ceramic coated Hooker or Hedman......Doug's seem to work well too.....
The stainless stuff sounds good til you realize they will be hot as hell just like a steel header.....
Ceramic coat can knock down header tube temps from 600+ degrees to less than 300F.....this is huge and on a Vette, solves a lot of underhood temp issues.

Jebby
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 02:43 PM
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Ceramic because of under hood heat. Hmm, didn't know that was a problem, OK. I am still concerned about fitment but I suppose the vendor should know if american made?
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 04:54 PM
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Under hood heat is a really big issue and ceramic coating on your headers will help.
I purchased Hedman long tube headers with ceramic coating.
You will have several primary tube diameter selections and each one listed on their website should show if they fit with a/c etc.
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 06:40 PM
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Or leave the stock manifolds..remove preheater on exhaust passenger side.., and air injection if still there…put true duals on..
time your engine..

how about some pics of your ride and engine…
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 08:04 PM
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Welcome to the Forum! I'm surprised no one has yet mentioned the unwritten requirement to post photos of your car.

Sidepipes are iconic on C3s, even bubble-glass vinyl-bumper cars I have ceramic-coated Hookers on mine. I hate the chrome look, and will fix it eventually, but it fits, and frees up so much room under the car. I'm pretty sure I can put the stock side skirts back on the car, once I repair the screw clips.

Be sure to check your timing and possibly re-jet your carb when you go to sidepipes (or headers in general), and use side-shields to protect yourself (and especially your passengers) from burns. Also, ARP makes mixed size studs. 3/8" into the head, and 5/16" external for smaller nuts. I made it work with 3/8" studs and nuts, but it was tight, so while I HIGHLY recommend studs, don't do what I did.


I have manual steering, but your stock steering box should be the same size. There's plenty of room. If you upgrade to Borgeson steering, there will be less room, but folks have made it work.



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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
Or leave the stock manifolds..remove preheater on exhaust passenger side.., and air injection if still there…put true duals on..
time your engine..

how about some pics of your ride and engine…
OK,ok pics coming.... Yeh, it still has all the stuff attached to both manifolds... I can't even SEE the plugs under all that junk so it at least has to go. Then I'll re-assess the situation. Thing is, I have a set of fresh ZZ4 aluminum heads here and thinking of putting them on anyway. Probably pick up a lot of compression and want the engine to breathe.

Last edited by 66GT350; Dec 6, 2021 at 08:35 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 08:33 PM
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Love the side pipes look! Always wanted it. I don't know how to work on Edelbrock carbs, always had Holleys and know them in and out but I like learning new things.. I'm thinking ZZ4 heads on, headers and play with timing, jetting etc.. Yup, I'll post pics soon. My buddy says to not even bother putting parts on this engine and drop in my 383 roller stroker aluminum head engine. Probably in the 425-450 HP range. But the more I look at this engine the more I think it has a fresh rebuild on it. Pulled a valve cover and looks brand new but it has the crappy casting # that everyone says cracks and w 76 cc chamber to boot. I DO know that it ran hot driving it down from Spokane 100 miles.

Last edited by 66GT350; Dec 6, 2021 at 08:52 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 08:54 PM
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Pics!

Your buddy is probably right. If you have an L48, it may not be worth it vs. parking the original engine in a corner and swapping in something with a roller-cam. But this Forum contains a lot of enablers for spending other people's money.

Stick a borescope in a spark plug hole and look for original dished pistons. Lots of engines get rebuilt with some spray paint. Also look for the engine stamp pad in front of the passenger side head, likely below the AC compressor. You can check the code here. If original to your 78, you can confirm the three-letter suffix. Otherwise, NastyZ28 has the data from the Lime Book to determine the engine's origin.

http://corvettec3.ca/engines.htm
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 09:08 PM
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That was my original thought for the engine especially if matching #. Stick it in a corner somewhere. My roller stroker is already paid for, been looking for a chevy to put it in for months.... Was really happy to find this Vette for it but then started having second thoughts. It may have a bent frame....poss reason it was so cheap! When looking at the front tires the driver side is further inboard than the passenger side...? Seems to drive OK though, once I got rid of the "torque steer" by tightening up the four rear leaf spring to rear diff bolts. They were all new as is the driver side lower a arm up front......and the front tires

Last edited by 66GT350; Dec 6, 2021 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 66GT350
OK,ok pics coming.... Yeh, it still has all the stuff attached to both manifolds... I can't even SEE the plugs under all that junk so it at least has to go. Then I'll re-assess the situation. Thing is, I have a set of fresh ZZ4 aluminum heads here and thinking of putting them on anyway. Probably pick up a lot of compression and want the engine to breathe.
running hot…
put in 180f thermostat…check total timing…and of course pics of shrouding, cooling. That 383 or not will still need to cool 😎 it will clean up nice without smog

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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 09:27 PM
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It has twin electric fans with their own shroud. Yes, the thermostat might be sticky but it seems to be opening when it should according to gauge, around 180-190. It was no more than high 50's Fahrenheit when I drove it down and the gauge was way over 200, closing in on the red line,,, but held there..Thinking radiator or cracked head.

Last edited by 66GT350; Dec 6, 2021 at 10:19 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2021 | 11:36 AM
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Post up those photos so we can see what is going on in the engine compartment to make it run hot.
Things like making sure the spring is in the lower radiator hose and that all the seals are in place are easy to do.

Another thing to consider when purchasing headers is the exhaust port height on your heads, which can make a huge difference in overall header fitment.
Some heads have raised ports and you'll need to know how much if any the exhaust ports are raised.
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Old Dec 7, 2021 | 12:40 PM
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OK OldCarBum ,I'm getting ready to start taking pics. I just noticed your location. I spent a couple of my happiest childhood years in Napa California. El Centro....4rth and 5th grades. MY Father was a Pilot for TWA after a stint in the Air Force flying fighters and we were constantly moving....That was the longest we stayed anywhere up till then.

I hadn't thought to check for the spring in bottom hose yet, thanks for reminding me. Been years since that was the problem on one of my cars and is a possibility I had forgotten about

I checked the bottom rad hose, it has the spring in it.

Last edited by 66GT350; Dec 7, 2021 at 09:59 PM.
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