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I have a question and am in need of some advice. I have a 69 coupe small block 300 hp automatic with factory air. Now that I got the temp gauge working I found that during a test ride the temp reached around 190. I put the air on for the test ride and the temp here in central Florida is 80 degrees. I do a lot if car shows on the Orlando area and there is an insane amount of traffic with Micky World and the rest of the theme parks. Down here the temps regularly get into the high 90's in the summer. I am considering changing the thermostat to a 165 or 170 for the hot summer weather to avoid over heating in traffic with the air on. Any thoughts on this change would be appreciated.
verify temp at water exit of thermostat with IR gun to be sure reading accurate.
pics of cooling system? shrouds and seals in place?
if it overheats , changing thermostat will not fix.
I have 79 stock L48.and it ran at 190 degrees. I had the same concerns eventhough 190 degrees is a normal operating temp. Last spring I replaced the rad.with an all aluminum 3 row and replaced the 195 degree stat with a 165. The car runs perfect and cooler. Worth the piece of mind.I couldn't be happier.
verify temp at water exit of thermostat with IR gun to be sure reading accurate.
pics of cooling system? shrouds and seals in place?
if it overheats , changing thermostat will not fix.
He didn't say it was overheating. He isn't comfortable with the engine temp.in the warmer climate and especially while cruising.
If your temperature reaches 190 with a 180 degree tstat, it will reach 190 with a 160 degree tstat. Once the tstat opens it has no effect on engine temps as they increase.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
If it's in your budget, put in the largest aluminium rad that will fit such as a big block rad with a/c. Use a 180* thermostat because oil temperature is ideal at about 180* and closely matches the coolant temperature. Replace the fan clutch with a new one such as a HD Hayden type. You don't need electric fans. But if your so inclined. try the big rad first and see how it cools before going electric fans. Guys in Arizona get by without electric fans.
the oem electric fan was only for extreme heat, i think ~230f before it came on.
the mod i did has it come on with ac / on full time/ and as designed.
my aluminum radiator here was my fix but oem was pretty bad.. i even went trying to get recored and a couple old radiator shops said aluminum is a no brainer for heat transfer and noone around me recores anymore. 180f thermostat from 195f https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nt-79-l82.html
I agree, changing your thermostat will change nothing.
However, 190 isn't bad. but it does show your Radiator is to small or not sealed correctly.
Bigger aluminium Radiator is your fix. Your 180 thermostat is fine.
If your temperature reaches 190 with a 180 degree tstat, it will reach 190 with a 160 degree tstat. Once the tstat opens it has no effect on engine temps as they increase.
Thanks, saved me from pointing that out for the 100th time.
The OP said his car temp runs around 190, 190 is 190 doesn't matter what T-Stat is installed. 190 is not overheating if the car is not puking coolant, a 10 degree split between actual temp and what's seem on the gauge is not unheard of. Best tool is an IR gun and shoot the temps entering and exiting the the radiator, should be around a 20 degree drop if the radiator is doing it's job.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
A high flow ts has its place, somewhere, but in this instance, its not necessary. If the OP wants to run his engine at 160*F (oil will be less effective at that temp) with a 160 ts, then he needs a big aluminium rad. OP might have a 190 ts if the coolant is at 190. Nothing wrong with that at all. Leave well enough alone until the weather heats up and see how it cools. If it starts to rise above 200, the rad is too small or full of scale.
If you are in a hot climate......and the water temp peaks at 190....that's pretty good.....
Pay more attention to the residual heat under the hood.......
9 out of 10 Vette's I work on have timing set nowhere close to where it should be......wrong timing can elevate EGT's and cause everything under the hood to get VERY hot......regardless of the water temp.
I drive a 66 and 68, both with small block L-79s in Tampa. My cars run at 180 degrees all day long with the AC on. Once the car is set up correctly with timing etc. focus on seals for the shroud and the fan clutch. If your temperature is too high for your liking, get a DeWitts aluminum radiator. Jerry
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by Tampa Jerry
I drive a 66 and 68, both with small block L-79s in Tampa. My cars run at 180 degrees all day long with the AC on. Once the car is set up correctly with timing etc. focus on seals for the shroud and the fan clutch. If your temperature is too high for your liking, get a DeWitts aluminum radiator. Jerry
Well, that can't possibly true because the electric fan boys say it can't be done!
Glad you posted that to show that clutch fans cool as good as electric fans when it gets hot in Florida.