1978 Window and Power Lock Troubleshooting
My passenger window wasn't working so I ordered a whole new motor. It was stuck in the up position and the motor swap itself was pretty straight forward. However, after replacing the motor it's still not working. In the process, I also did something to my power locks and they aren't working now either. Here's where I'm at so far...
- Pulled the old motor out
- Verified I am getting 12V on both the tan and blue wires when the window switch is pushed in the up/down positions
- The 12V is relative to the ground lug on the door panel that also connects to the power lock switch
- Installed the new motor
- Am I missing a rivet or bolt by my thumb? It looks like a hole on the regulator lines up with it if I push the motor forward.
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- Key in ACC position, driver window works as expected, passenger window still doesn't have any movement
- When I press the up, the interior lights dim and there is a slight click
- When I press down nothing happens
- I also took the motor out and installed it without the gear to make sure nothing was binding. Motor still didn't run. Bad motor?
- Verified the motor bolts have continuity to the door ground lug
- Verified the door ground lug has continuity back to the negative battery terminal
- The orange wire to the door lock switch is 12V. I put a jumper wire from that to the motor terminals one at a time to see if I could get the motor to move and still nothing. This is when my power locks died.
- All fuses look good
- I don't see a fuse labeled specifically for the power locks. Anyone know which one it is?
- What does this connector go to? It has orange and green wires and I don't see anything it should mate to.
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- What am I missing?
- Next I'm probably going to rip the motor back out and hook it up to a power supply to make sure it even works
Last edited by brasian; Jun 1, 2022 at 01:01 AM.
- seat belt warning
- headlight warning
- ignition key/alarm warning
These boxes are a challenge to find and working. Some time back Wilcox was working on this unit and its electrical circuit board. The challenge was the buzzer that is soldered onto the board...the sound changed nearly each year so getting the right box, and working is a challenge.
Hope this helps!
The door lock is powered through the CLK/LTR/CTSY fuse. This is 20amps rather than the window motor circuit breaker which is 30amps, so you might have blown this fuse.
- seat belt warning
- headlight warning
- ignition key/alarm warning
The door lock is powered through the CLK/LTR/CTSY fuse. This is 20amps rather than the window motor circuit breaker which is 30amps, so you might have blown this fuse.









