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The spring is ready to be 'hand fastened' at the L and R end. The instructions say to "carefully jack the spring up using a vice grip and a jack to 'align' the bolts in the 'end-holes' of the spring.
My car is on a lift with the rear chassis on a smaller 'pneumatic crossmember lift' (don't know what the correct name is). I did an (alsmost) complete rear end 'restomod' and inspection. (I still worry about the driveshaft but that's an other story. We will see about that...)
The bolts went through the holes in the L and R ends without the extra jacking with vice grips etc...
Can I just tighten the end bolts by hand (hand tight), and after that slowly drop the car (with the wheels on ofcourse) without damaging the spring?
How far do the nuts (L&R ends) have to be tightened before 'dropping' the car back on the ground?
OR do the nuts and bushings just have to be 'on there', and tightened after the car is back on the ground?
You will have to put the weight on the wheels to adjust the end bolts for the correct ride height. Probably a very stiff spring with only a few inches of movement.
You will have to put the weight on the wheels to adjust the end bolts for the correct ride height. Probably a very stiff spring with only a few inches of movement.
Hard to tell but are those "standard" length bolts or the longer ones as that clearly also affects spring travel.
They are 8" bolts.
WIth just the nuts on the left and right end on, I can lower the car and after that adjust for ride height?
Originally Posted by BKbroiler
Yes.
I have a Van Steel composite spring too.
With the standard 6" bolts you'd probably need to jack the spring up to get nuts on the bolts. The long bolts give you enough length to get the nut started and then adjust and tighten them with the car on the ground, and weight on the spring. Just make sure you have enough threads in the bolt before setting it down.