I'm in the early stages of a complete rebuild of a '69 coupe. The original birdcage and rear body were discovered to be in poor condition. The drivers side rocker channel is crumbling to the point that the typical inserts are not an option and there are issues with the top windshield frame and bottom windshield corners. The rear fiberglass has areas of deterioration, cracking and panel separation. All repairable but I found a bare body with solid rocker channels and body mounts, and the fiberglass is in very good shape. The top of the windshield frame is perfect. No evidence of previous body repairs etc. Sitting in primer. Even the underside is clean and painted. The doors and t-tops fit very well. So all sounds good and appears to be a bargain considering the repairs needed on mine. But, there's always a but, once I got it home and got the bonding strips off the bottom corners of windshield I found some sketchy repairs. Some maestro has made a sculpture in fiberglass and bondo on the drivers side that couldn't be seen clearly without pulling the bonding strip off. There is metal underneath it so it is unclear to me why there was a need for such a build up of filler. The passengers side has some evidence of repair as well but its not as bad. So clearly this will have to be addressed. My path forward would seem to be removing all the filler and fiberglass from the metal frame and see what lies beneath. I can salvage some material from my old birdcage if I have to. But before I go too much farther I'd like some thoughts on how to assess the windshield fit knowing that something is potentially off with previous repairs. It seems to fit even all the way around but I am not clear on how to look for trouble. Does anybody know of somebody in the Raleigh, NC area that could take a look at this and offer some guidance on how to approach this?

 

the windshield is still installed? and t tops fit? then it fits good. just in case it shifts, measure everything. vertical, horiz and diagonal of door openings, t top openings, windshield frame. you may find a little bit or a lot of rust that a bondo guy fixed his way. doesn't mean it is anywhere near about to collapse.

 

No the windshield is just sitting loose in the frame. It seems to be even all around and is touching the frame except where all the filler is on the drivers corner. My biggest questions is the placement of the glass up and down. Should be glass be pushed up tight to the frame at the top so that it is under the chrome? That is how I have it in the pictures. If that is the case you can see where the glass lands at the bottom. I suspect the windshield frame was repaired at some point so knowing that and the fact that we have some interesting repairs, to say the least, it makes me think I need to be critical of everything before moving forward.

 

it goes under the top chrome and just under the 2 side trim pieces that screw on. i think you will find orig pinch weld contour underneath all the bubba bondo. was there a piece of metal pop riveted on both sides? makes me feel even better. what is showing looks like it may not even need welding. won't be sure til the goop is gone. here is hoping... test fit of glass. go get the adhesive foam weatherstripping at lowes depot. the skinny stuff about 1/4 inch high. stick a piece all the way around and see if the windshield settles in to all of it. 5/16ths or 3/8ths if you can find it.

 

Yes, I think under the bondo I will find that the metal is pop riveted on. It appears to be galvanized. The good news, I think, is from the backside where the outer and inner pieces of the lower frame are spot welded together and form the windshield seat, looks to be intact and straight. Sounds like I have a bit of work to clean it up before I'll know more. Time to go get a box of 80 grit mini-discs and a few bags of black beauty

 

5 in one painter's tool. nice cross between razor scraper and chisel. you will pop most of that without having to sand. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-15-n...E&gclsrc=aw.ds 15 in 1 more like it. i cut cement blocks with one and opened beers before they put the opener on it!

 

Leave enough room at the top so you can open (pull forward) the moulding clips to release the moulding. Side to side, center the glass.

Steve O.