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I have recently replaced all of my PS hoses, a NEW valve and a NEW pump (no rebuilt parts) and I still have intermittent steering, real jerky. The only thing I haven't replaced is the cylinder & my steering box, which I had believed all to be fine. I'm getting tired of throwing $$ at this but nearly everything in the PS system is now NEW.
I read all of the posts similar to the below and how to bleed the system using Jim Shea's very helpful instructions for deaireatiion.i had the milky froth as mentioned in the threads below, but I opted to wait 48 hours instead of the 24 as recommended.
Over the years I have repaired my power steering many times. I am on the 3rd pump now. but hey, the car is over 45 years old.
Anyway the point is. everytime I replace a part or a hose. I slightly overfill the pump resivor. And with the wheels off the ground and engine running. turn the wheel from lock to lock slowly about 3 times. Set the car down. check the fluid level and go for a drive to check it out.
Never a problem. Never had to let it sit. Never jerky steering.
Im thinking your missing something.
That your jerky steering had nothing to do with the pump or the control valve.
Rusty seized ball joint, idler arm, or tie rod end? Steering box adjustment screw too tight?
It took several days for air to work out of my power steering system .
Rusty seized ball joint, idler arm, or tie rod end? Steering box adjustment screw too tight?
It took several days for air to work out of my power steering system .
Several days? I'll go out and try it again in a day or so. That will make it 4-5 days for the air bubbles to subside.
More than likely you steering box isn't 'good' ...unless you know it was rebuilt by a knowledgable person within, say, 5 years ago. They were known in their day to often be 'out of spec' from the factory (new). Generally the lower bronze bushing wears, and the front input bearing can rust up ...and then it throws off the 'pre-load'. Meaning it'll be sloppy. But even if the steering box is 'good' ...it might be worth removing and re-adjusting in a vise ...since you're trying to nail down your steering.
Question: When you had the steering parts off your car (and front on jackstands), did you ever rotate the steering box input shaft by hand? How did it feel? If the rotating action feels rough, then the input bearing is probably rusted up and binding. The bearing is pretty small, like a bearing used on a bicycle crank. The only way to set the pre-load is to remove the box and do it in a vise. It's really worth it (IMO) to do so. Then you can have good, tight, steering.
The hydraulic chugging sounds like a 'flow' issue to me. You have to have the right valve in the pump...
I think "intermittent" and "Jerky steering need to be separated into two possible problems. When you say "intermittent" steering I'm assuming this is referring to the feel of power steering going away and you have the feel of manual steering. When you say "Jerky" does this only happen during the intermittent event?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
U could take the PS belt off and drive it without it. If it feels jerky its another mechanical part. If you no longer feel it try rebalancing the valve. The procedures in the AIM. Basically you take the plug out of the valve to expose the adjustment nut. Jack up the front end. Take off the driverside tire. Start the engine and turn the nut slowly and count the turns. The valve will open and the steering will rotate in one direction to the stops. Turn the valve back the other way noting when it starts to go the other way. Subtract the first number from the second and that should be about center. Turn it there and see how it goes. The AIM wil be more precise
Sorry for the delay fellas, me & the wife had the Covidz all week.
This is probably a really stupid question, but is the ram of the steering cylinder supposed to be secured within the bracket, or move freely like the pic below??
Nothing came loose, the steering cylinder was improperly installed. You're missing the bushing and metal grommet retainer that is pointed out in a couple pictures above. There is also something weird going on with the way the mount bracket is mounted.
that pic did the trick! PO didn't have it installed correctly, I just always assumed it was supposed to be the way I had it.
So I took her for her maiden voyage to DQ just now and I have POWER STEERING!! Yaaaaaay!
Nothing came loose, the steering cylinder was improperly installed. You're missing the bushing and metal grommet retainer that is pointed out in a couple pictures above. There is also something weird going on with the way the mount bracket is mounted.
I was missing the rear washer, that was the issue. And there's nothing "weird" about the mount bracket bolts. I opted to replace the stock nuts with Grade 8 nuts and lock washers. They are thicker than the stock.
Glad you got it.
If you don't already have one, a great tool to have is the factory AIM for your year car.
This assembly manual is worth its weight in gold, sold by all vendors.
Yet another PS bleeding thread!
