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IMO if you have a cold line that is sweating then it's likely working correctly and your warm air is a problem with mixing doors, controls and/or heater shutoff as mentioned.
update, I’m looking at the switch, it has 2 lines coming in, the far left one doesn’t have a line coming in. I’m guessing that isn’t good?
actually, after checking the manual I only see 2 lines in the diagram
Ok, so when I manually push the button on the switch, I get vacuum at the heater control valve line. So there’s a little lever looking thing that’s attached to the temperature cable, and when it’s at cold it looks like it’s supposed to push the button, but it’s too far. Pic below
It’s in the full cold position. Is that what it’s supposed to look like, or is that lever missing something?
The attaching screw(s) look loose to me.
If that is the cold position see if the switch will slide towards the arm that pushes the button in.
Maybe a small cable adjustment too, make sure those screws are tight when you find the sweet spot for the switch.
Also the third vacuum port on the switch is an exhaust port.
Trapped energy (vacuum) needs to be exhausted or the hot water shutoff valve in the heater hose will never change state...
first off.. it appears that the valve has been zip tied as a bandaid..
it looks like bolt (s) loose.. first bolt it down.. then if cold does not compress button use adjustment so that the lever when moved to cold does NOT touch the left side of the control.. it should fall slightly short to push the valve..
Thanks. found my own solution tho. put a zip tie on the lever with the locking part facing toward the button. fixes it. AC works well now, not ice cold but cool. I think im gonna replace this compressor next, the noise is horrible. Is it just a matter of remove refrigerant from lines, unhook compressor, replace o-rings and compressor?
Thanks. found my own solution tho. put a zip tie on the lever with the locking part facing toward the button. fixes it. AC works well now, not ice cold but cool. I think im gonna replace this compressor next, the noise is horrible. Is it just a matter of remove refrigerant from lines, unhook compressor, replace o-rings and compressor?
i would say that if compressor going out, it is probably depositing metal into system.
do it right and flush, and new accumulator..
no one will warrant without above minimum. I had to show napa accumulator receipt and orifice and told them I flushed to get new one under 3 year warranty.. suggest new not rebuilt though.
if i do ever switch from r12 i will get a sanden compressor.
or just run it until it explodes..
again though..check belt tension. They can be noisy and slap the belt guard if loose. Pics are always good for help.
