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I have recently moved on to working to fix the brakes on my 73'. The front brakes work perfectly but no matter what I do I cannot get the rear brakes to work properly. I have replaced both back calipers, pads, rubber lines, metal lines, and the Master Cylinder but they just won't work right. At first, when I replaced these parts and bled the brakes I had solid brake pressure in the back, Then after about a half hour of driving, I would lose rear brake pressure. I would then bleed them again and the same thing would happen. I then realized that one of the calipers was leaking so I assumed it was a bad caliper. After exchanging the caliper, the same thing happened and that caliper began leaking too. Then the caliper on the opposite side also began to leak. I have no idea what would cause this and why all of the new calipers on the rear have started leaking while the front brakes remain fine. Any Ideas?
Where are you sourcing your calipers from? The market is flooded with **** quality remans right now. Almost all jobbers are sourcing from reman centers in Mexico, absolute garbage and guaranteed to leak almost immediately. This includes NAPA, Autozone, O'Reilley's, etc. They will warranty as many times as you feel like doing the job over. Go with Lonestar out of Texas. They're the only American rebuilder left.
Cheers, Greg
I would check the runout on the rotor. Use a dial indicator to determine the runout. If it is beyond specs, the rotor will pump air into the system and cause loss of petal or a leak in the caliper. Jerry
I would check the runout on the rotor. Use a dial indicator to determine the runout. If it is beyond specs, the rotor will pump air into the system and cause loss of petal or a leak in the caliper. Jerry
Check for runout. I had exactly the same issue. Had to replace the rotors and ultimately had the rear wheel bearing assemblies rebuilt as well. Completely solved the problem. I bought a cheap dial indicator from Amazon for $46 and that was enough to determine the rear rotors were warped enough to cause the issue.
Harbor freight sells one too for about $6 cheaper and it seems to be a bit more flexible.
Thank you everyone for the help. The rotor runout was around 15 thousandths on each side so I got the rotors turned and bled the brakes again and now I have had consistent brake pressure for about a week of daily driving.
1973 Corvette Rear Brake Problems
