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Sorry this is a little off topic but I think there are more rust control experts on here than anywhere. Lol
I just bought a 2016 GMC with only 13k miles on it, and it must have sat outside a lot in the last 6 years. Everything but the frame shows no indication of exposure, it’s in really nice shape, even still has the new car smell.
The frame however is starting to show some scale. See pics.
I was wondering if I brushed off the loose stuff and sprayed por-15 over these areas if it would arrest the rust progression. Or maybe some other product? Are those brush on rust converters worth anything or are they snake oil?
Thanks in advance.
That's not bad. POR stands for "paint over rust", so it should work just fine for you. Wire brush the lose stuff and scuff up the painted part with a Scotch Bright pad. Prep is important when using this stuff or it won't stick to the smooth painted surfaces.
On any truck I would highly recommend cleaning out the cavity inside the rockers and the one above the bed wheelwells. There used to be drains in the truck rockers but IDK if they are still built that way. Use compressed air to clear them, and even a good spray from a garden hose to flush the debris out.. Above the rear wheelwells there (used to be) body plugs around the lip. Pull those out and do the same thing, after its dry spray in there with Fluid Film, then replace the plugs
You can wire brush it, then use a rust converter on it. You could then paint a good protective finish to protect the metal for years to come. Make sure you use some internal frame spray to protect the inside of the frame as well.
do you use this product and then coat over it with something?
Clean the loose paint/ rust dirt off and then brush on the Gempler's. You can paint over it but not really necessary. I am not a fan of POR-15. You can find posts debating Pros/Cons.
I've been using POR15 for probably over 20 years.
Here is what I do, now this is for parts you can work around- diff's, boxes, arms, etc.
1- wash off dirt and oil
2- blast to bare iron or metal
3- Acid etch, rinse, air and flame dry
4-POR15 gloss black
5- top coat once the POR15 is tacky but doesn't come off
6- let harden 24+ hours
Works great, take a lot more time, I like it better than powder coating those parts. I have had new powder coated arms that chipped, you can plug in any arm name you want too, they all did if hit hard.
Now what I have played around with to test results.
Rusty vise, small, odd ball junk parts, etc. No blasting, no etching, just painting over rust. It didn't last, it lifted.
My frame was pretty good and used it and it stayed on the past 15 years, some small patches lifted. I have also jobs come in where the parts were properly treated and POR15 applied, it was very hard and time consuming to remove.
Clean the loose paint/ rust dirt off and then brush on the Gempler's. You can paint over it but not really necessary. I am not a fan of POR-15. You can find posts debating Pros/Cons.
I'd saturate it with WD 40,over time the oil will attract dust,dirt and will protect bare metal. The quarter panel of this Nova was bare metal and stayed outside for maybe 3 years. Every couple of months I'd get other there and re apply a fresh coat of WD 40 and it was good for a couple more months. All my friends that paint thought I was nuts but it worked for me.
That's only part of the "self lubricating chassis " RPO.
There is also the factory installed oil weep at the power steering pump, the manitory weep at the front main seal. The oil pan gasket weep. the fuel pump to block major leak, the power steering hoses controlled leak. And not to forget the standard equipment, (Not nessesary part of the "Self lubricating chassis RPO") the never ending valve covers leaks!
One thing I learned about POR-15 brushing it on from the can if you're not going to use all the product from the can in one session and don't remove ALL product from the lid gutter then put the lid back on the next time you go to open the can you will destroy the can before ever getting the lid off.
What I do now is remove lid stir, mark level of product on the outside reseal the lid.
Drill a 11/64 hole or so just above the level mark and put a piece of painters tape over the hole.
Remove painters tape, pour the product into a Dixie cup or another disposable container and brush out of that.
This way it keeps the product in the can free of any debris that may be on the brush and you can remove the lid to stir the product in the future.
Funny you should mention that, my truck in the OP does have a very slight pinion seal leak, just enough to cause a drop to form but not fall. Probably again due to sitting a lot over the last 6 years. Due to that age, I didn’t get any warranty, but I’m debating asking them if they will cover the repair anyway.
Por-15 question
