Hey!
I was born in 72 and growing up, the C3 'vette was the coolest thing I had ever seen.
Now that I'm 50, I decided it's time to get one. I think they call that a mid life crisis

Apparently there's a LOT more to the generation than just looking good!!!

I thought I'd start with the engine.
I'm just a normal guy, I drove a boring civic to work. I have a wrangler now. When it comes to big block vs small....is someone like me....a non-gear head, going to know the difference?
Is the small block going to make me happy and the big block just make me happiER? It seems like the newer models lack the horsepower of the earlier years, but tend to make up for it in other ways.
I just want the C3 to cruise with, look super cool, and occasionally have it put me back in the seat when I let it loose.

There's so much to learn, but numbers don't always tell the whole story, sometimes you just have to talk it out.

Thanks in advance!!

 

Hey !! Welcome to the forum.
The bigblock has massive heads compared to the SB and is physically wider.
A SB will set you back in the seat when built-up, same as a stock BB, but when built the BB will try to break the seat mounts and everything in the drivetrain too - if there's any traction to be found.
The gas mileage difference will allow you to cruise much longer with a smallblock.

 

DON'T JUMP! step in slowly and carefully. engine. that is the easiest and cheapest part of the car to redo-repair-upgrade. roll down to post 107 and read. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ispreloading=1 now go on craigslist or FB marketplace and find some cheap shitty ones near you and go look at them. you are not car shopping. you are getting examples of what to stay away from. what do you want and what do you have to spend? you don't have to say numbers on here but you need to think through the prices. these cars in decent driving shape go for 10 to 25k. in truly great condition 20 to 60k. that is not counting the truly special ones. and few are over 40-45 at the present time nut prices are rising. do you want something to get in and drive? or are you a pretty capable guy and can do some rehab work yourself? and where do you live? you want to start looking close to home, but if you ended up going to arizona or san diego or west texas to buy it would probably be a good thing in the long run. welcome aboard.

 

Not sure if you mean later year C3s or newer as in C5-8. The new C8s will leave a C3 far far behind, as in another galaxy behind.

There's not a ton of difference between the power to weight ratio of the standard engine C3s across the body run. Be aware that early C3 horsepower was measured by a different method than later year horsepower; a fever in Fahrenheit makes you feel the same as in Celsius but is displayed as two different numbers.

For me the first considerations would be chrome bumpers or not, then coupe or convertible. Those two decisions alone will to narrow down your range of years to search for by a significant degree. They'll also have a bearing on factory engine choices too - if factory setup is important to you.

 

Have you ever done any work on a car? Do you have any tools? Do you know what a carburetor is? If your honest answer to these questions is NO, then you might really want to reconsider buying a C3. The newest C3s are 40 years old. If you drive any C3 regularly it will require some maintenance and a qualified C3 mechanic might be hard to find.
Not trying to discourage you but you might be better off with a C5, for the same money.

 

Thanks for the welcome and the great advice.

Not jumping in and taking it slow is a good idea. My time frame is next Spring so I'm spending time now learning what I can

derekderek your post was terrific. Part of me doesn't want to touch one until it's mine, but that's not realistic. I need to try size them up.

"Not sure if you mean later year C3s or newer as in C5-8. The new C8s will leave a C3 far far behind, as in another galaxy behind."
I wasn't very clear, I meant the later C3's.

"Have you ever done any work on a car? Do you have any tools? Do you know what a carburetor is? "67:72 Are all the C3 coupes t-tops? I definitely want the roof off in some form , but convertible vs t tops doesn't matter too much I guess.

68post What did you mean by "but when built the BB ". Sorry, I'm still learning new terms even at 50!

Thanks again guys! I appreciate it!

 

What I mean is when the big block is built to a higher than stock output it stress EVERYTHING behind it, including your seat frame.

 

No simple answer. The hunt is different for everybody. I had a “mild” search for several years and then my ‘71 coupe appeared locally. Immediately struck me, so arranged financing and drove her home. Not a powerhouse but well cared for. However, my maintenance issues included rear leaf spring, exhaust, brakes, carburetor. I feel lucky to have found a good mechanic, but major maintenance is expensive. Decide year(s), then go for the best you can afford. Keeping her going & enjoy the drive. Totally worth it.

 

EVERYTHING they said.........

 

First thing you need to do is go on Amazon and grab a copy of the Corvette Black Book. That will give you full descriptions of all years from 1953 to 2022 including pictures and all options and how to tell the "matching numbers" for each model which can make a huge difference in value. If you just want a cruiser you may want to pick up a non matching car as it will be cheaper. The matching number car will be more expensive but will also hold value and appreciate in value.

So you need to consider 3 things. Price, style, (coupe or convertible) and condition. Remember two things about condition when you shop....Paint and rust. If the car needs a paint job you will be well ahead of $10,000 paying for it. If you don't look carefully for rust you could wind up with a car that literally could fold up on you.
The body is fiberglass and will not rust but the frame and birdcage can rust to the point where the car is worthless even though the body looks like a show car. Do not buy a car without removing the kick panels and inspecting the body mounts. That will give you a good idea of rust in the birdcage which is a frame around the cockpit including the windshield frame. Another quickie is to spread a white towel in the foot well area and them thump on the top of the windshield. If the bird cage is rusty you will get little rust flakes on the towel. Also check the frame particularly the 'kick up" in the frame as it goes up over the rear wheel.

The Black book will help in a huge way with your choice of year and model but a few quickies......c3's were built from 1968 to 1982. 68-72 are regarded as the "chrome bumper" cars and have higher horsepower and higher value usually. 73 was a transition year and had a rubber front bumper and a chrome rear.. The big blocks were only available through 1974. And the convertible went away after 75. All the coupes have removable T Tops from 68 to 82. The small block will probably make you very happy if you are used to a civic. And from 1968 through 1974 they were pretty strong. In 1972 the horsepower calculations were changed but the motors are very similar until 75 when they really choked it down with the catalytic converters. The HP tanked in 75 and then slowly increased again through 80 when it dropped slightly in 81-82. These cars from 75 tp 82 will still feel pretty peppy to you coming from that civic. You can find particularly good value in these later cars and they will in general deliver a more luxurious interior, more options and a smoother ride while not giving any of the handling up. An 80 car is the height of the improvements in lighter weight and HP. The 350 optional engine is called an L 82 in these later cars.

You did not mention transmission choice but you can have a manual in all years but 82.

You will find this forum very helpful with advice as you shop. Don't be afraid to come here, post pics and descriptions of cars you are shopping and you will get great advice.. Good luck and enjoy the hunt!

 

all coupes from 68 to 82 are t-tops. 75 is last year for the convertible. chrome bumper 68-72 are near double the price of rubber bumper 74-82. the newer they are, the better they ride. the 82 is a luxury car. the 68 is a hot rod. rust issues arre the same for all 15 model years. your order of importance: 1. frame and bird cage 2. body and paint. 3.rear suspension and brakes. 4. engine and trans. 5. interior. 6. millions of little details.

 

C3 = The boat of cars. Get wrenches ready.

 

ible.
I think I'd be okay with either t-tops or a convertible. I'll have to see a few in person, thanks

I think I'm in the "decide year:" phase now. Trying to navigate all the options and narrow it down. I'd like manual, just because....well, just because. So that rules out the later C3's, right?

ah, I understand now, thanks!

 

This was very informative! Thank you. I'll check out the book. Having all the information in one place will be nice. I've read a lot from MANY sources and keeping it all straight is rough!
I do want to get a manual transmission just because it feels right. Another decision not really based on logic, like the idea of getting a C3 in the first place.
I'll look up how to remove the kick plate and check for rust, that's a great piece of advice.
I've seen that "matching numbers" term before, I'll look that up too.

Thanks again for all the great advice.

 

Hi Jedi, welcome! You came to the right place - some very helpful people here, and you're getting some great advice. My sweetie supports my car disease, and we've owned over 150 vehicles - so far. I must be sick, but so are most of us on here. No vettes until 2015, when we bought a C7. Then a '72 C3, a different C7, a '68 C3, and on a list for an eRay. I agree with you - - C3s are drop dead gorgeous cars, and they're not bad to work on either. A couple of thoughts:

• I'll paste in a video of some things to look for. Video has been around for a while, but I think it's pretty good.
• Our '72 was a sb, our '68 is a bb. Both have plenty of power for getting around and having fun. But some of the mid-late C3s can be a bit soft on power according to many on the forum - I've never driven one of the low hp years. The main thing you'll notice with a bb over a sb is the torque - lots of bottom end on a bb. But sb's can be built to do anything you like too.
• Don't worry about the weight difference between a bb and a sb - it's only around 150 lbs or so. But, we've named our '68 'The Beast', partly because it's an L71, but mostly because it has no power steering and we have wider tires on it - - it's a beast to try a turn the wheel without ps when you aren't moving.
• I wouldn't be too concerned about pb. When sorted, the manual brakes on C3s are outstanding IMO.
• Chrome vs. rubber? Your choice. I like them both. A lot. Same with vert vs. coupe.
• You're going about it the best way as suggested: narrow down your list of must haves, wants, etc. - - then don't compromise. Get the best of what you must have and want because you don't want to regret not getting some important items you really want. There are a lot of good C3s out there, and this forum will help guide you through what to look for, worth, etc. when you find some you're interested in.
• Get the best you can or want to afford. It costs a lot of $$$ to do things like paint, etc. on these cars.
• Have fun with the hunt, and more fun when you have it.

Keep us informed. Best, Paul

 

I know where there is a 77 210 HP automatic black with red interior coupe. It had been resprayed back in the 80s. I think you can get it for 6-7500K. Runs and drives just needs some work is all. The owner said it was vapor locking on him. Last year, it was on the road. It has red interior... Even has a car cover on it. It is a California car. Not sure why it was resprayed. We passed on it since he had a 74 which is smog exempt. The corvette is complete. Even has new tires on it. Recently passed smog and is current on its registration.

 

Thanks for the reply, information and video. I like the pics he used as an example. I looked for the book he mentioned on amazon and it's $161! ha!! I'll have to check ebay or something.

I do like the idea of torque, and I've listened to a few videos of the BB, there's just no beating that rumble. But I have to listen to some sb's too.

Not having power steering seems a bit concerning. But I'd hate to give up HP or other cool options for it.

Right now my list of must haves are
1) manual

ha!!

I guess I don't have a solid opinion on the top or bumpers, or even the engine yet. Keeping options open for now.

Thanks for all the info, if you have anything else to share, I'm all ears!

 

Having power or not, for me, would depend on where I drive. If you live in a place where you are frequently parallel parking, that would make power steering more of a necessity. Once you are rolling, the option loses it's advantage. I have one Corvette with and one without, and truly on the street and road, the driveability for the car without power steering is a non-issue. The only other place I've valued PS is on an autocross track where quick directional changes are necessary with just a flick of the wheel.

 

You stated up front you're a non-gear head so it's safe to assume you have nothing in your toolbox. C3's are 40 to 54 year old used Chevy's and require maintenance from the owner and/or a local mechanic which can be hard to find. Most of the general automotive shops won't touch anything this old so you have to find a specialty shop. Plan on spending $110 hr for labor rates regardless of what shop you find to maintain your car.

 

Yup, see it all the time. I belong to 3 car clubs.
The members are always in 2 distinctive groups.
The motor heads, and the guys who pay us to fix there cars.
In the latter group. It breaks down once again.
The rich guys who can afford it and don't care about the cost. And the guys you don't need to get to know well.
They won't be around long.