When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking for recommendations on where the best place to purchase 1970 windshield. In checking a few places they
talk about original green tinted windshield. My original windshield does not appear to have a green tint to it only
the top sun shade tint can anyone tell me more about that. Thanks
Auto City recently told me to expect about 6 to 8 weeks lead time.
Seem to have a good reputation if you can wait.
I ended up buying from KoolKatz, https://koolkatzautoglass.com/, got a windshield within a few weeks, a Pilkington windshield which was unexpected after hearing Pilkington stopped making windshields for classic cars. Old stock? Fit is good, no waves or distortion I've noticed.
They seem to offer either PPG or Pilkington.
My car is a 70 as well.
I used Auto City, I wanted a date coded windshield, the date coding has a lead time. If your not date coding your windshield then any of the the windshield vendors mentioned would work. You might also check the shipping cost of the vendors.
If you're looking for date coded, correct thickness glass, you may try Zip.
They expected 8 weeks lead time.
I couldn't get specific information regarding their claim of the glass being original thickness, what exactly do they think original thickness is?
Nor could I find out who made the glass.
Problem I see with getting date coded glass is it will be tough to return if you're not satisfied with the quality, could be wavy or doesn't quite fit well.
Best to get some sort of agreement on what the terms are for returning before ordering.
Installation is another hassle.
Most windshields are thinner than originals, if the installer uses a ribbon of adhesive to install, the glass may sit low in the frame leaving a gap between the glass and trim.
I used an installer who laid a bead of adhesive, thick enough to bring the glass up to the height needed to contact the trim.
If you're looking for date coded, correct thickness glass, you may try Zip.
They expected 8 weeks lead time.
I couldn't get specific information regarding their claim of the glass being original thickness, what exactly do they think original thickness is?
Nor could I find out who made the glass.
Problem I see with getting date coded glass is it will be tough to return if you're not satisfied with the quality, could be wavy or doesn't quite fit well.
Best to get some sort of agreement on what the terms are for returning before ordering.
Installation is another hassle.
Most windshields are thinner than originals, if the installer uses a ribbon of adhesive to install, the glass may sit low in the frame leaving a gap between the glass and trim.
I used an installer who laid a bead of adhesive, thick enough to bring the glass up to the height needed to contact the trim.
A search through the forum found Alan71 stating 9/32” windshield thickness
DW00714GBN NAGS code is Domestic Windshield 714 Green tint Blue band. In 1970, the choices were clear, green tint, and green tint with blue band. All that’s manufactured is green tint, blue band anymore. I don’t think Pilkington has manufactured aftermarket windshields in ten years. Guardian Glass either. PPG spun off aftermarket glass to PGW. Everything now is made in Taiwan or China. The next player for A/G is XYG and FYG. I have never seen a Safelite branded Corvette shield.
This came off the date coded windshield for my 1969. It was definitely thinner than original.
The repo windshield thickness measures 6.76 mm that equals 17/64” an original 1971 windshield was measured at 9/32” for a difference of 1/64”. Making this repo windshield a 1/64” thinner.
Last edited by boat196; Sep 6, 2022 at 01:39 PM.
Reason: Correct
This came off the date coded windshield for my 1969. It was definitely thinner than original.
I was told the difference in thickness was somewhere around 0.100". Was told the problem with thinner windshields is they sit lower in the frame, don't make contact with the trim when using a ribbon sealer. How did your installer compensate for the difference in thickness? Did they lay a bead of sealer thick enough to get the windshield to the correct height? I've seen windshields installed which appear sunken, looks bad.
my installer said no problemo. he knew how to get correct height. then he did 1 squirt of urethane like it was a camry and left. now i am gonna have to do some kind of thin black ribbon under top trim to fill the near 1/4 inch gap. there is something to be said or butyl rope. the glass is physically held in by the trim.
my installer said no problemo. he knew how to get correct height. then he did 1 squirt of urethane like it was a camry and left. now i am gonna have to do some kind of thin black ribbon under top trim to fill the near 1/4 inch gap. there is something to be said or butyl rope. the glass is physically held in by the trim.
I had one installed recently, the installer mounted the trim without the glass installed to get a point of reference for height, set a bead of sealer thick enough to set the glass at the correct height. If he had used to strips I doubt he'd get the height right.
I was told the difference in thickness was somewhere around 0.100". Was told the problem with thinner windshields is they sit lower in the frame, don't make contact with the trim when using a ribbon sealer. How did your installer compensate for the difference in thickness? Did they lay a bead of sealer thick enough to get the windshield to the correct height? I've seen windshields installed which appear sunken, looks bad.
Thats why you need to dry fit the windshield, prior to installation. You’ll shim the windshield to the correct height so the windshield trim has the proper gap across the top and sides. The distance between the frame and windshield will give the height of urethane that’s required.
I had a glass installer help with my windshield installation, I dry fit my windshield prior, IIRC the urethane was applied taller than what was required.
To add to the discussion, I just measured an XYG windshield I have laying around, 4.7mm thickness (0.185039 inches). About 0.100" thinner than 9/32 (0.28125 inches). Thickness seems to vary depending on the manufacturer.
How did your installer compensate for the difference in thickness? Did they lay a bead of sealer thick enough to get the windshield to the correct height? I've seen windshields installed which appear sunken, looks bad.
Nope. Had to make up the sunken look with more sealer. Now the bottom of the windshield is delaminating. Auto City offered to send another if I paid the freight. After paying $550 to have my stainless trim polished, I don't feel like ripping it all apart again.
Surprisingly I ordered a windshield about 10 years ago from Safelight. Two technicians came with the new windshield with the green band at the top and did a very impressive job putting it in. Whole job cost me I think about $400
Surprisingly I ordered a windshield about 10 years ago from Safelight. Two technicians came with the new windshield with the green band at the top and did a very impressive job putting it in. Whole job cost me I think about $400
Its not a difficult job, for a pro installer, it’s all that goes along with the installation, like the OP having the trim polished. A new windshield from Auto City Glass today along with shipping will cost more than the $400 you spent ten years ago.
Nope. Had to make up the sunken look with more sealer. Now the bottom of the windshield is delaminating. Auto City offered to send another if I paid the freight. After paying $550 to have my stainless trim polished, I don't feel like ripping it all apart again.
Originally Posted by boat196
Its not a difficult job, for a pro installer, it’s all that goes along with the installation, like the OP having the trim polished. A new windshield from Auto City Glass today along with shipping will cost more than the $400 you spent ten years ago.
My last windshield was installed with sealing strips, Butyl? Had the sunken look.
This time I found an installer who uses urethane, lays down a bead around the perimeter with depth sufficient to bring the glass up to where it should be.