Looking to buy a friend's late sister's "baby", but want to avoid some pitfalls or over-paying. I have "first dibs" on this car, and am not looking to "steal" it. Basically, I want a fun driver for an occasional trip out of the city. I'm familiar with most of the issues for cars of this era - lack of comfort, rough ride, tight fit, aging mechanicals & electrics since I had a '69 Mach 1 and still own a '79 Mark V. I have other cars for reliable transportation. And I've always loved the chrome-bumper C3 Corvettes, especially in yellow. I just don't know much about them other than the obvious.

This one has been sitting in a garage for 10 years. Was loved by it's previous, non-mechanic owner. Currently has carb or ignition issue that keeps it from starting/running other than sputtering and backfiring, and the brakes go to the floor (as expected). But those things I can fix (carb, ignition, brakes). I am also pretty certain there are no internal engine or trans issues based on the PO's information (again, a friend) and the way it sounds cranking and how it shifts/engages. And I'm told that another inspector has stated the birdcage is clean. Also, everything I could test inside did seem to work - windows, fan, seals appear tight etc. (I know they're old, and things will break one at a time - I'm OK with that!)

What is a fair price for this car, between friends?!? Not looking to flip it or as an investment, and not intending to "show car" it, and I don't even care if the paint is perfect. Just looking to keep it in the extended "family" and drive it around occasionally. (I have more pictures, and I also have a mechanic friend that would be able to help with things requiring a lift.)

Thanks for any insights/advice.












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What is the asking price?

 

Those aren't the original cylinder heads, it may not be the original motor, if that matters to you.
The valve cover bolt pattern is from a late small block.

In front of the right side cylinder head is a pad on the block with the engine numbers, if you get a picture of that someone can tell you more about the engine.

 

That's just it - we're trying to determine what's "fair". It's a bit of an unusual transaction, between friends.

 

I wouldn't be too concerned about some of the non-original parts that are on the car, as this is a base model 350/300 Corvette - Valuable, of course, but things like that don't affect the value nearly as much as if it were done to a L88/L71/LS5/LT1. The concern for these cars is frame/chassis rust, plain and simple. Good thing it isn't covered with undercoating to hide the rust, but the rust I see is a concern, yet all-so-common in the C2s and C3 cars. It definitely hasn't spent its life on the West Coast in a dry climate (AZ, CA) - unless it was a in a seaside town. That looks like rust belt damage to me, and I am going through this with my 69 convertible as we speak.

If you can get it on a lift or pull the wheels off, huge problem areas for rust is in the rear, and around the trailing arms where they connect to the frame. The frame and birdcage is the single most serious issue with these cars. Everything else is just gravy, IMO. But once you get into frame/chassis restoration or replacement, you are talking big bucks $$$. Also, don't take secondhand inspector data at face value - look at it yourself, or pay someone to do it for you. there are some pretty awesome members here who may even volunteer to do it for you, depending on where you are.....

Value for a family/friend car is not easy to quantify, as emotions and respect are involved - you don't want to feel like you're taking advantage of folks you care about.... On the open market in its existing (non-running) condition, I would peg this at about 12K - again, in its existing condition. And if the rust turns out to be even worse than shown in the pics, then the price would go down even further. Then you're in the single digits in thousands $$$, with a boatload of money and time needed to correct.

There will definitely have to be a good deal of rust remediation needed for this car, but again, it's common in these cars. My issue is that I purchased my '69 remotely (without seeing it in person first) from a person who was less than honest about the condition of the frame. Fortunately, the birdcage in mine is fine. If you find that the rust is even worse (expecially around the trailing arms) upon further inspection, and the birdcage turns out to be rusted as well, then it's likely time to pass on the deal, as you would be far more into the car, moneywise, than it is worth. And rust really does need to be addressed sooner than later. You can't just let that stuff go, and just drive - putting it off. These cars become quite unsafe when the frame rust gets bad enough.

 

^^^^Pretty sage advice right there.
12 max....Id think more like 8, maybe 9.
Its that rust im not a fan....after 10 yrs you know youre gonna be going through it bumper to bumper hope the owner reallizes it too. Real easy to dump 3-5k just getting it roadworthy safe, reliable.
Know that high teens low 20s gets you a sorted clean driver.

One thing..make sure there are no rodents that have taken up residence.
Wiring, carpet, padding etc will have to be tossed most of it anyways.
Dont want to be breathing that stuff. At the end of the day yes its a super cool manual steel bumper vette but also its just an old Chevy that needs tons of work.
At least the interior looks fair, and paint is fine if you wanna drive it.

 

8 to 10 thousand it’s basically a non runner, frame looks good no big holes.

 

The guy that is helping her move & sell the car stated that it's "numbers matching but with newer heads". I don't really care about originality too much since I'd actually drive it, so newer heads are probably a good thing for hardened valve seats. But I'll get the picture of the block engine number to confirm if the price isn't out of line.

I'm glad I posted here, tho, since most of my data set is from "Asking Price" ads and it's hard to tell what cars actually sold for. You guys are helping me a ton, thanks!

 

Hmmm?
So basically this car needs a nice clean up and the typical fluid changes and tune parts (possible fuel pump & tank flush) to get it up and running, so that's a one day job. Going to need calipers and master cylinder replaced...that's the second day. So on the third day you could be driving this great looking Corvette. I think it's fair to say that it will need front and rear suspension components re-done as well but that's something you can do as time and money permit, while enjoying the car as a running/driving restoration.
The paint, chrome and interior all look pretty decent. Thanks for posting the pics of the car "as is". That's very fair but it still looks to me like a good detailing and this car would show pretty nicely. I'm finding very rough chrome bumper cars are priced in the $8-$9K range.
As you said, the deal is going to be "among friends' and it's difficult for outsiders to understand how close that relationship is. But if you look at the car, without the friendship connection, solely as an easy project '69 Corvette for sale, it would be worth the minimal investment to at least get the engine up and running and show the car in a more favorable condition. The C3 market has jumped up considerably in the last 18 months.
I would think, then the car should easily bring $14-16K for a quick sale without addressing the brakes. Pretty hard to find a decent '69 numbers matching four speed in a nice color combination for less than that.
If your friend will part with the car, as is, for less than $10K I think that is an absolute steal of a deal.
Good luck either way and please keep us informed.
Cheers, Greg

 

Hagerty shows a value of $16,100 for a base '69 Coupe in #4 fair condition.

But that's running condition & with brakes...

 

Yep, that's what I based my initial estimates on. I even put in all the engine options, and was surprised to see that a basic big block was actually valued slightly *less* than this base small-block (L36 $15.6k vs. L48 $16.1k)!

I guess I considered this car "Fair" when I was first told about it. But that was assuming it ran, as you said. Per the previous post that might only be a day or two and a carb adjustment and master cylinder away...or not.

Thanks

 

I think you hit the proverbial nail on the (my) head. I thought this car would be a reasonable & local entry point into a C3 which I've always liked/wanted. I certainly don't *need* another car, but this isn't a rational thing. It's the color combo I like, too, and I know I'm not being purposely "taken" by an unscrupulous seller at least as far as known major mechanical issues are concerned. I can fix carbs, brakes and electrical things. I cannot, however, swap a motor or a trans, and I'm not good at body work. Plus I only have a carport so I don't need/want a show-quality car. And as you said, I thought I'd be able to drive this one after a couple of days of tinkering, before winter.

So assuming the birdcage and trailing arm mounts are not rusted in any structural way, which I can confirm, *and* the engine and trans are fine once I get it fired up, I thought $14-$16k would not be out of line. But that's why I'm asking here.

The largest discrepancy that surprised me here is what people consider "rust that needs to be addressed immediately". Being from the Midwest I'm used to seeing surface rust (or worse) on most used cars that aren't galvanized, so the surface (?) rust here didn't scare me at first. I guess I'm used to unibody cars which are exposed to salt annually - so this one seemed OK. But I certainly don't want it to collapse under me! :0

It's not going to sell for $10k or less. I initially thought I would offer in the $12-$14 range, but I think they now have offers (pending inspection) around $17k...

 

i dunno what he charges, but i would send the carb off to Lars. the crap i see in my riding mower float bowl after 6 months. you don't want to try to run and adjust it. rust needs a clean up and paint, but i don't think a frame-off is a must. all depends on the cage. pull the kick panels and post pics around windshield and below the outer corners of windshield. one i consider a positive is the honesty. no undercoat or paint tryna hide stuff. but i think 8 to 11-12. 10 is a nice round number... somebody you don't know or like, 6 to 8. but tell him he has to help put his sister's car back together.

 

More details as I'm digging through pics.

No sign of rodents in the wiring, and most electrical things I tried seemed to work fine.

It needs a windshield, but from what I researched those seemed easily (and cheaply) available.

It has 73k miles on the odometer which seems to match the paperwork.

The seats were redone; the original seat fabric is included with the car.

 

Agreed.
The rust shown in your pics looks like typical Midwest surface rust to me. Your friend says the cage is good and I'd have no reason to doubt him. It certainly won't hurt to look deeper but the pics don't show any structural rust issues. That can all be cleaned up nicely and repainted in a couple of days with the body on.
I've owned many Corvettes and I would not be afraid of buying this car at $12 or $14K. The numbers are only going up.

 

Just another C3 Corvette that needs a full body off restoration......otherwise, it will just be a regular problem every time you want to drive it. You just can't deny reality. You can't wish to have a car be reliable, when its in this condition.

 

I’m in agreement with Greg. Keep your expectations low and offer a reasonable amount if the car passes the inspection of a knowledgeable person that you choose and pay. It will benefit both you and your friend to know what’s what re condition. I think your assessment of 12-14 as is and up to $17 based on a thumbs up from the inspection is fair. But keep in mind how much you value your friendship with the seller. Go for it. The nay sayers here, who are as entitled to their opinion as I am to mine, tend to be a bit harsh in their assessments of condition and seem to see things as pretty black and white.
PS be aware, windshield replacement on a C3 with a rusted windshield frame, and most are, can be a real can of worms requiring welding of patches and sometimes extensive restoration prior to placing the glass. The glass is cheap and available but also much thinner than original and requires great care to get installed right.

 

There's a lot to like about this car, and a lot of questions too.

• The rust I see in the pics doesn't look that bad. If the kick panel area and frame kick-ups check out, I wouldn't worry about that.
• It costs quite a bit to thoroughly go through the brakes on these cars, but definitely sounds doable by you. No shortcuts on brakes.
• You'll have to decide if it matters to you, but at the very least the top end of that engine is not stock to the car. Not sure about the block.

Keep us informed. Best, Paul

 

That car should easily pull 15 - 17K in its current condition.
Yes it needs some work. But it's all there. And it's a chrome bumper car.
Those that think it's worth less won't be the one who ends up with it in their garage.
These cars are not going down in value.
You wouldn't believe what it would sell for over here. (Australia).

 

Now I'm curious....how much *would* she sell for in Aussieland, you think?!? (Never been there. And can't afford to travel...I might be over-paying for a car soon!)