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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 01:13 PM
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Default ugh bad glasswork

Well luckily, I have some resin, matte and hardener. I still have to take it further down the fender near the door. How would you tackle it? My plan is to drill the cracks so those will stop. V out the cracks and start laying matte down. The front nose section is almost 1/2 too low where it meets the front nose. We have a fiberglass nose to install. That too needs some work to make it work. The lower section corners are shorter than the fender on the driver side which was not hit.




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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 01:26 PM
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The near-vertical seam aft of the wheel opening looks like someone spliced in the fender. Not uncommon when doing a “center wheel forward” surround replacement. If this is the case, you need to fab up a bonding strip to strengthen that seam.

No need to drill cracks to stop. You vee out the crack an inch or two beyond the ends and that will address any future propagation.

Be sure NOT to use polyester based resin. Your car has SMC panels and you need an SMC compatible resin.

Tackle the fender first. Then post some pictures of the other issues.
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Old Oct 12, 2022 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 69L88
The near-vertical seam aft of the wheel opening looks like someone spliced in the fender. Not uncommon when doing a “center wheel forward” surround replacement. If this is the case, you need to fab up a bonding strip to strengthen that seam.

No need to drill cracks to stop. You vee out the crack an inch or two beyond the ends and that will address any future propagation.

Be sure NOT to use polyester based resin. Your car has SMC panels and you need an SMC compatible resin.

Tackle the fender first. Then post some pictures of the other issues.
Working on the front nose right now too. The aftermarket front nose is shorter in length overall where it meets the fenders. Not sure who made it since it came with the corvette when we bought it. The bottom right passenger fender had about 1/2 inch of bondo. I sanded most of it out. My plan is to get about 1/8 longer out of the nose. Cut down the middle and one side of the left hand side of the license opening on the bottom part of the bumper corner to get the left side to line up better. It just got too dusty in the shop even with proper ventilation. I am using plumber straps and self tapping screws to get the spacing right. Plus taping the behind the back of the fiberglass bumper cover as a release agent so the plumber straps will not get bonded to the fiberglass. I want to get the nose looking right before I tackle the fender since the fender lip going down the wheel wells is so much lower.

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