Under hood decal placement
I have an “early” ‘68 427/400 L68 C3 (built in November of ‘67) and I’m wrestling in my head on decal placement for the emissions and radiator decals.
The AIM manual shows placement for the emissions decal to be on the flat area between the master cylinder and the wiper door but I believe I saw that the earlier production for ‘68 had them on the top of the drivers side radiator.
Also the radiator decal, I believe it goes on the passenger side of the radiator… or is it on the shroud ?
I had a fellow affiliated with NCRS pitch getting my car judged saying once it’s got NCRS’s good blessing it could get as much as $46,000. Ya well I’m sure I could but well, he wasn’t happy when I said good luck finding one for that.
I pointed out that the actual market value of a Tri-power 68-69 was in the mid $60k range right now “if” you can find one. You can argue it’s not worth that and your probably right but if thats what the seller wants and he won’t part with it for less you won’t get it, but guaranteed someone else will.
This is a quick decision market, better move when you find something or tomorrow it’ll be gone. There’s not a lot available. In fact since I’ve made mine presentable I’ve had several offers in the low $60k range to sell it. Nearly every show someone tries. My goal is to keep and enjoy the car not profit from it. I’ll probably have it til I die. If I can keep it as factory original as I can as I restore it I’ll do that though but there are limits.

The NCRS mindset does make proper factory coded parts more expensive though. The “AG” coded rims on my ‘68 can cost 3 times what a comparable rally wheel would and the jack
, my car was missing both. I searched for a replacement and found a 1970 and a ‘68 date coded jack. They are identical except for that little stamped date code. I bought the ‘70 with its lug wrench for $150 as the date coded ‘68 would’ve been $650 for the jack alone. Who is ever going to look for and care about that date code ? I also was able to source 5 restorable AG code rims picking here and there for a total of $400 passing the people who thought they were made of gold. Those rims are unique to the car with a shallowerbackspacing so that I can see.
Granted it would be good to know how the little things should be placed for originality sake so if I see a used copy pop up at a realistic price I’ll grab it.
Didn’t come from money and didn’t get where I am now by throwing money away needlessly.
I will say that the NCRS judging does have significant value not so much for setting the price of sale but for verification of a numbers matching “bubba free” car for a prospective buyer. That is worth it if you intend to sell.
Last edited by Lt.Mike; Oct 16, 2022 at 10:31 AM.
As for the $100 for the NCRS Judging Guide where else could you get that kind and amount of information for $100. AG rims the cost for any thing that is rare in comparison to a widely held item will always cost much more. It is always up to the individual to make that determination on how original or looks like original the item they have.
As for the $100 for the NCRS Judging Guide where else could you get that kind and amount of information for $100. AG rims the cost for any thing that is rare in comparison to a widely held item will always cost much more. It is always up to the individual to make that determination on how original or looks like original the item they have.
Thanks for confirmation on the emissions decal.
I think for Flight Judging to be a selling point and price boost, it has to have been done in the very recent past - as in the last year or two, at most.
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