A quick update:
Ive been busy with my other trucks and projects and have had the carb on the corvette disassembled on a table for 6 months. A screw had broke off in the carb for the bottom butter flys. By the grace of God I found it before it blew the engine. I had took the carb off, tipped it upside down a a screw head came out. So it sat. I pulled a different quadrajet off a 78 k10 I have laying around. I disassembled it and took the screws out. I took the bottom of the carb to the local jewelry store my grandpa works at. We very precisely removed the rest of the screw. By we I mean my Grandpa. So precise we didn’t even have to tap the threads. then we took the screws out the other carb and replaced all the others. In the process another screw broke. So same story and put the new one in.

I have the carb completely ready to be put back together, but I’ve forgot what the float level sould be. I’ve read online that 1/4 to the top of the gasket is good. Or 5/16. Wondering what you guys think?

Also, I’ve discovered that the motor is a around 300HP crate motor. It depends on what heads it has on it. ZZ4 heads or stock… with the heads it would make 360. But it has cast heads, a magnet sticks to them. I figure the ZZ4s would be aluminum?

Knowing this info I’m wondering what level I should set it at? Thank you.

Hopefully tomorrow I can fire it up and hear the open headers! Then I gotta finish up the 2.5 inch exhaust and mufflers. I want a deep, good sound that you and people around can hear, but not head ache loud if that makes sense. Car has a roller cam. Thinking some flow master. What series would you guys recommend?

 

So, long story short I didn’t get a response about the float hight. I put the carb together and slapped it on the car. Put the headers and collectors on and fired it up. I could see from in the car it shooting fuel in the air out the breather. After 30 seconds of total run time it had completed flooded itself out. So I’d guess that 1/4 inch is wrong. Anyways. I wish a quadrajet was as easy to adjust as a Edelbrock. It’s been almost 8 months total of battling this carb. Not consistently of corse. So if anyone knows the carb float hight for the carb you’d be putting a 76 back on the road after 21 years. Thanks. Amazing how ridiculous it sounds with open headers. Lol

I was able to get the drivers side birdcage body mount broke loose as well. Kroiled it every couple weeks for 6 months. Sucker came right out.

I have a new problem as of today as well. When I press the brake both dash blinker lights turn on and stay on till I let off the brake. Also my blinkers no longer work. Great. I’m gonna guess it had to do with the headlight switch. But I don’t realy know. If anyone knows that would be a huge help. But I have a sick feeling I’m gonna be takeing the dash out. Again… For the third time. Yay…

iAnyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated. I got 5 days till I can work on it again.

The hookers that I painted with that VHT crap immediately bubbled up. At least they looked cool I’m my garage for a while. Just gonna wrap them in header wrap. I’m aware of the rust that can accrue.

 

Carter,
The link below is the Rochester M4MC, M4MCA, M4MEA models instruction sheet that should have come with any decent carb kit.
Scroll down to the bottom of page 9 and look for the 1976 Chevrolet All Models,
Then 350" Eng. Hi. Perf,
M/T.
Those numbers should get your setup in the ballpark...
https://quadrajetparts.com/pdfs/4010B.pdf

 

Awesome. Thank you. I couldn’t find anything on the subject when I looked previously. I must not have been using the correct search term. I really appreciate it!