Replace brake lines?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 416
Likes: 76
From: Atlantic Beach, FL
Replace brake lines?
I am in the process of rebuilding my front and rear suspension. No upgrades, mainly just replacing worn out joints and bushings. I’m trying not to get into anything that isn’t “necessary” but It’s a challenge for me to contain myself from “scope creep” and not start changing things out just because they are old. Also would like to contain the budget where possible.
So as the title says, while the entire suspension is out and I’m already rebuilding the calipers should i take this time to replace all the brake lines?
There are no visible issues with them aside from a little surface rust. This car spent most of its life in California and is solid.
What say you?
So as the title says, while the entire suspension is out and I’m already rebuilding the calipers should i take this time to replace all the brake lines?
There are no visible issues with them aside from a little surface rust. This car spent most of its life in California and is solid.
What say you?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 416
Likes: 76
From: Atlantic Beach, FL
Yes, i should have said that I am replacing the rubber lines. It’s the hard lines that i was thinking about. It would look nice, and it’s not too much work, but it’s another couple hundred bucks for something that I don’t NEED.
It’s just too easy to put things in your shopping cart. Everyday has been like Christmas since i bought this car and it’s getting time stop buying parts and just drive the damn thing
It’s just too easy to put things in your shopping cart. Everyday has been like Christmas since i bought this car and it’s getting time stop buying parts and just drive the damn thing
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,212
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From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I did it and it was pretty easy. I replaced the long drivers side by snaking it though the crossmember from the rear. Soak all the T's and connections before hand so you can get the rusted or seized fittings out easily. I got all my lines from Inlinetube.com
https://www.inlinetube.com/collectio...Brake%20Lines|
I went with stainless lines and stainless flex lines. they have the rubber too...https://www.inlinetube.com/collectio...Brake%20Hoses|
https://www.inlinetube.com/collectio...Brake%20Lines|
I went with stainless lines and stainless flex lines. they have the rubber too...https://www.inlinetube.com/collectio...Brake%20Hoses|
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 201
Likes: 68
From: Washington
I replaced all my calipers and rubber lines. I only replaced my rear hard lines because there fittings were stripped. If I were you and I was trying to stay on budget I would just let the main lines stay. For me it wasn’t worth the hassle. They work fine and don’t leak so I left them. Just my thought, if they work, and don’t leak, leave them. But if you want them looking fresh, replace them.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
the hard lines are not young. i think once a year or so when brakes are fully bled and working, stand on the brakes like a 3 year old just chased a ball in front of you. if you are gonna pop a line with emergency brake pressure, better to do it in your driveway stopped.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 564
Likes: 185
If the hard lines give you any reason to question their integrity you’ve already got your answer, replace them.
The main lines on my ‘68 looked ok but I had to replace the rear calipers so I replaced the headlines from the rubber hose back. Didn’t replace the rubber hose and that came back to bite me.
The right rear line collapsed inside creating a one way valve locking up the caliper. I released the bleeder and the caliper relaxed it’s grip on the rotor.
It was then I replaced all the rubber brake lines.
On the hard line I replaced with stainless. For the longer lines I’ve turned to using something called Ni-Cop a nickel copper mix available at autozone. It is extremely easy to work with and will not rust !
The main lines on my ‘68 looked ok but I had to replace the rear calipers so I replaced the headlines from the rubber hose back. Didn’t replace the rubber hose and that came back to bite me.
The right rear line collapsed inside creating a one way valve locking up the caliper. I released the bleeder and the caliper relaxed it’s grip on the rotor.
It was then I replaced all the rubber brake lines.
On the hard line I replaced with stainless. For the longer lines I’ve turned to using something called Ni-Cop a nickel copper mix available at autozone. It is extremely easy to work with and will not rust !
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Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,408
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From: Redondo Beach, California
You can replace the metal brake lines with the body on. The problem line is the one that runs along the driver's side frame rail. Of course, it'd be easy to remove this line by cutting it up in small sections...but don't. The trick is to remove it in one piece. Why? Because when you remove it in one piece, then installing the new line is simply the same as removing it, but doing it in reverse. The first time you do this will take a long time. By the third time I removed and replaced a line, I could do it pretty quick.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,597
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Rookie suggestion...if the steel lines are badly pinched-replace them. If there are thick rust spots-sand (by hand) the rust off the steel line/pump the brakes hard as suggested above to see if there is gas weeping from the areas you sanded. Replace the line at the SLIGHTEST sign of gas weeping.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,932
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From: Here, There and Everywhere
If they have never been replaced, do the math. They are over 50 years old! I'm an old school hot rodder and my motto is...."Do it nice or do it twice." Is saving 200 bucks really worth it in the long run?
Pro
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 564
Likes: 185
Rookie suggestion...if the steel lines are badly pinched-replace them. If there are thick rust spots-sand (by hand) the rust off the steel line/pump the brakes hard as suggested above to see if there is gas weeping from the areas you sanded. Replace the line at the SLIGHTEST sign of gas weeping.
Rust by itself will weaken the line and sanding them is removing metal till it looks nice but you know it’s thinner and weaker now. This is nothing to skimp on. You’d spend big money on a stereo but your brakes are you and your passengers safety. Make it right.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2022
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 2,328
From: Central UT
I did the suspension (everything), rear, brakes, etc. on our '68 a year or so ago. The car doesn't have a ton of miles on it and the hard lines looked really good as far as wear is concerned, but they didn't look all that nice when compared to all the new/refurbished parts I was putting back.
So, I decided to do the hard lines while I was at it. As I was removing the hard line that goes across from one rear to the other side, it broke in half! The hidden wear was under one of the clips. I would never have known, until it failed. Your lines are 50+ years old. I wouldn't even think twice.
Keep us posted. Best, Paul
So, I decided to do the hard lines while I was at it. As I was removing the hard line that goes across from one rear to the other side, it broke in half! The hidden wear was under one of the clips. I would never have known, until it failed. Your lines are 50+ years old. I wouldn't even think twice.
- I've used stainless lines and steel lines. I went with steel because stainless can be quite a bit harder to work with and seat. Besides, if the first steel lines lasted 50 years, I'll be looooong gone by the time these are shot.
- I coat items like this with high temp satin clear. It keeps whatever I coat looking like new for years. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000CPJL...Bsatin%2B&th=1
- I also bought new brass blocks. They're not that expensive, look great, and seat really well.
- Get new clips and it'll look even better.
- As others have said, the front/rear drivers side is the most tricky, but you'll get it. Some of the clips are a bit hard to get a wrench on, just soak them and use the right wrench and you'll figure it out.
- This thread may have a few helpful posts and pics. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-there-2.html
Keep us posted. Best, Paul
Pro
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 532
Likes: 154
From: Two hours out of KC, two out of St Louis
Another consideration is how long are you planning on keeping the car? If this is your dream Vette and you are never going to sell it, I say replace them now while you are already dirty. If this is a stepping stone Vette towards your dream car, well, if they are working fine I would probably keep them.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
I don’t think how long you were going to keep the car has anything to do with how well you do the brakes. If you don’t keep the car, somebody’s going to pay you money for it. And then they are essentially trusting that what you did you did right. And when it comes to making something stop, people really need it to be done right.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 532
Likes: 154
From: Two hours out of KC, two out of St Louis
Derek, I agree. And personally for $200 it is not even worth discussing in my mind, but I remember trying to finish a car on a strict budget and if the existing lines are solid and money is tight...I get where he is coming from so I offered that angle in case he had not considered it. As I said, I would replace them. But he is asking for opinions, so I offered mine.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,212
Likes: 9,352
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
no you dont...I did all mine in a 4 speed car without lifting the body
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 21,457
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From: Massillon,Ohio USA
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12
...did both my '68 4spd conv & '75 L-82 auto coupe without removing the body. The hardest part is getting to the fittings at the rear main line junction fitting, especially if the car has some and/or rust.