1968 rear wheel alignment
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 113
Likes: 29
From: Atlanta
1968 rear wheel alignment
startting to adjust the toe in on the back right. alignment shop says its 1/4 inch aiming out. they won't do the alignment. i was told just move a 1/4 inch shim from inside to outside and I will be good. started removing the front bolt and what a bear, plus no space to get to the bolt. it is not corroded and the bushing is in good shape. I put pressure on the leaf spring upward and removed the shock but getting the hole aligned to receive the bolt is going to be a bear. No info on Utube that I can find. question ? what am I missing ? do I need to remove the spring attachment bolt ? Any tool that might help ? Any advice would be appreciated.. ATLANTA
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 2,304
From: Central UT
Ah, the good old '68 only (for C3s) rear alignment fun! For '68, they used shims that you have to remove the rear trailing arm bolt to remove them, change them, etc. Not fun, and not a good idea. For '69+, they switched to a slotted shim that you can just loosen the bolt and make adjustments without removing the bolt. This is probably the reason your alignment shop doesn't want to do it.
Many of us '68 owners have changed over to slotted shims by drilling holes in the right spots on the frame and using the '69+ cotter pins. I did that on our '68 L71 (oh, the humanity! :-) ), and my alignment guy nominated me for sainthood.
Best, Paul
Many of us '68 owners have changed over to slotted shims by drilling holes in the right spots on the frame and using the '69+ cotter pins. I did that on our '68 L71 (oh, the humanity! :-) ), and my alignment guy nominated me for sainthood.
Best, Paul
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,064
Likes: 1,382
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Just some additional info., mine is a June built '70 and I did not have slotted shims, however I did have the holes in the frame for the cotter pin. I now have slotted shims.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 598
startting to adjust the toe in on the back right. alignment shop says its 1/4 inch aiming out. they won't do the alignment. i was told just move a 1/4 inch shim from inside to outside and I will be good. started removing the front bolt and what a bear, plus no space to get to the bolt. it is not corroded and the bushing is in good shape. I put pressure on the leaf spring upward and removed the shock but getting the hole aligned to receive the bolt is going to be a bear. No info on Utube that I can find. question ? what am I missing ? do I need to remove the spring attachment bolt ? Any tool that might help ? Any advice would be appreciated.. ATLANTA
My DIY Alignment method - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
To get the trailing arm to release pressure at the TA Bolt, I never removed any suspension parts. I used a jack to raise or lower the hub until the ta bolt could be installed.
I started with a long bolt of a smaller dia to allow for misalignment, then finally able to install the actual bolt.
Of course the easist is move Half shaft and spring from the TA.
Good luck this is not a easy procedure.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 113
Likes: 29
From: Atlanta
Originally Posted by Mooser;[url=tel:1606254804
1606254804[/url]]Did the alignment shop tell you what the thrust angle was they way it sits now?
M
M
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 113
Likes: 29
From: Atlanta
Outstanding, thanks
Originally Posted by cagotzmann;[url=tel:1606255107
1606255107[/url]]So once you get the ability to move shims, here is what I do for DIY Alignment. Easy to measure with simple tools.
My DIY Alignment method - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
To get the trailing arm to release pressure at the TA Bolt, I never removed any suspension parts. I used a jack to raise or lower the hub until the ta bolt could be installed.
I started with a long bolt of a smaller dia to allow for misalignment, then finally able to install the actual bolt.
Of course the easist is move Half shaft and spring from the TA.
Good luck this is not a easy procedure.
My DIY Alignment method - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
To get the trailing arm to release pressure at the TA Bolt, I never removed any suspension parts. I used a jack to raise or lower the hub until the ta bolt could be installed.
I started with a long bolt of a smaller dia to allow for misalignment, then finally able to install the actual bolt.
Of course the easist is move Half shaft and spring from the TA.
Good luck this is not a easy procedure.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Follow what cagotzmann is telling you, he's really got this stuff down
M
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,771
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From: Charlotte Area North Carolina
My early '69 rear alignment shims have two holes so the long pivot arm bolt has to come out to add or delete alignment shims to your trailing arms. I used fishing line on the end of a piece of coat hanger wire to thread the fishing line from the inboard to the outboard side of the trailing arm with the other end of the fishing line tied through the cotter pin hole located at the end of the pivot arm bolt. It helped pull the long pivot arm bolt back through the frame - shims - bushing opening.
I like cagotzmann's idea of the long bolt with the small diameter to help align the shim holes and bushing hole with the frame.
I like cagotzmann's idea of the long bolt with the small diameter to help align the shim holes and bushing hole with the frame.