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I decide to go the halo/led route with sequencers on my 81. I read about the side drl/turn lights use 2 12v wires that alternate for turn light and drl light with no dedicated ground. The older thread stated using a blinker genie to get them to work both ways or use a standard bulb. I used non-polarity LEDs for the 168 bulbs as a work around. Everything seemed to work well at first, then i hit the hazards. They worked but It now looks like my choke, wiper, horn and elec fan relays are not functioning. Fan is running constant with ignition key on, wiper relay is clicking like crazy and elec choke and horn are not working. I'm not sure if using the non-polarity bulbs, I had too much current feedback using LEDs? Should I used diodes on them? Anything else that could cause this? I did just replace the Alternator also.
Yes I did add a Keep-It-Clean adjustable flasher to slow the sequence on the switchback halos and front turn signal, 1-2-3. The side marker then lights up once they go out and the cycle repeats. Seems to work as it should. I didn't add the flasher for the hazards since I read someone reported its not needed and they seemed to function properly with the standard flasher. I do have one and will add it. I'll pull the fuses but everything seems to have power. Just wondering why everything went to hell. I asked about the current feedback because I think the standard bulb 168 acts as a resistor but I don't know electronics and just guessing. I did have run-on (not dieseling) with the old alternator and replaced it and added a diode so this my be a issue from that problem that I'm just seeing now.
$50- flasher? Ouch. I can see why you didn't buy two. But the lack of a flasher for your hazards is likely the problem.
I'm assuming you've seen my thread on this. You can see in the video that my side marker lights (orange) flash opposite the other turn signals. It is what it is, I guess. I have a pair of the new Blinker Genie Mk.II modules, but I haven't tried them yet. I'll do that when I replace the front wiring harness in my 79.
If you had run-on that was fixed with a new alternator and a diode, your ignition circuit was wired incorrectly. Do you have a wiring diagram? Pick up a Shop Manual and an Assembly Manual specific to your year, as well. While the LED light project may be related, somewhere something got screwed up, and you have one or more burnt out fuses, or something is disconnected.
@bmotojoe has a handy electrical troubleshooting manual, and sometimes posts relevant pages from that, if he notices the thread.
Thanks. I did read your threads and that helped a good bit to get it hooked up. The new alternator is a 12SI 100 amp (upgraded stereo w/amp sub) which is known to have run on issues so I added the diode just in case. The old one worked without it for years and I didn't change any wiring on the ignition end so I just figured it was bad. Now I won't know for sure if a new reg replacement would have solved it. Anyway, I went out today and pulled the fuses and pulled the battery and charged it up. Put everything back with the hazard United Pacific LED flasher you used. Fan switch stopped running on accessory and elec choke worked along with all the lights/sequencers. Horn and Wipers still nothing. Thinking the relays are shot. I have both manuals so I'll start looking thru them when I get a chance.
The flasher was $29 on ebay, still pricey but the UP flasher was too fast and the 3rd light in sequence would barely blip on. the cheaper adjustables were inconsistent on speed. The KIC one slows it down to a nice smooth transition across so it was worth it.
AFAIK, the United Pacific LED flasher has one speed. The correct speed. Are you sure you hooked up the ground wire? I had to splice mine together, lengthen the wire, and run them over to the birdcage behind the kickpanel to find a solid ground under the dash. If yours doesn't match the frequency in my video, you either got a defective unit, or something else is wrong. I don't think over or undervoltage would cause this, but I'm not sure. Again, that is just my understanding of how they work.
Can you post some photos, or better yet a video of this "run on" you describe? Does your 81 still have the CCC and ECM?
Originally Posted by Steve81
The new alternator is a 12SI 100 amp (upgraded stereo w/amp sub) which is known to have run on issues so I added the diode just in case. The old one worked without it for years and I didn't change any wiring on the ignition end so I just figured it was bad. Now I won't know for sure if a new reg replacement would have solved it.
I am absolutely baffled by this statement. How can an alternator cause run-on? What diode did you put into the circuit and where?
I have a 150 Amp 12SI alternator. It does not cause run-on. Bad timing can cause dieseling (which you say it isn't). What is the system voltage when the engine is running and the alternator is outputting?