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Bright Lights kill the engine

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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 05:14 PM
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Default Bright Lights kill the engine

My 1978 Vette has started having an issue where if I turn on my bright headlights, it kills the engine. Has anyone else ever had this issue? I have been wanting to upgrade my headlights to the newer brighter headlights, not sure if this will fix the issue, or if I need to try and fix the issue first. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 05:28 PM
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I'm thinking you better fix the issue first. Then once the problem is sorted. Add headlight relays and then your new brighter headlights.
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 05:53 PM
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Do NOT start the engine:

Hold the headlight wire that comes through the firewall BEFORE you turn on the lights.
Is the wire warm or room temperature?

Turn the headlights on LOW BEAM.
Is the wire warm or hot after a couple minutes?

Turn the HIGH BEAMS on.
Is the wire warm, hot, or very hot?

START the engine and repeat the above tests.

Let us know the answers.
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 07:32 PM
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WAG, Check the connections to the distributor coil / module. If you have another one laying around try swapping them. It's possible the highbeams are drawing that extra bit of juice to pull the coil/module down too low.
M
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Mooser
WAG, Check the connections to the distributor coil / module. If you have another one laying around try swapping them. It's possible the highbeams are drawing that extra bit of juice to pull the coil/module down too low. M
I would actually get out a voltage meter and check the voltage at the pos side of the coil.

Start the car - and check voltage from coil pos to ground:

1) With no electrical accessories on.
2) With parking lights only
3) With Low Beams only
4) With High Beams.

Let us know ...
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 08:52 PM
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Engine completely shuts off or idling and stalls? Engine stops at higher rpm when lights on?
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 09:02 PM
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true, points would rumble on while HEI would quit.
issue, why ain't your alt making juice?
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 09:03 PM
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Use a voltmeter to check the voltage at the HEI distributor BAT connection and the alternator output terminal.
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Old Apr 2, 2023 | 11:19 PM
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It could be a single problem,or several problems.
As the members said...weak alternator...corroded-loose connections..hi amperage radio-speakers...high amperage cooling fans...etc.

You wouldn't be using the HEI 12V wire to supply current to anything else...
would you?
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Old Apr 3, 2023 | 04:20 AM
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All good points above. Although the holding the wire in your hand idea may be difficult compared to just testing voltage.
what does your volt gauge on your dash read when idling? It should be 14.5 volts. Or very close to that.
Does the volt meter on the dash drop when you turn on your lights?
It shouldn't.
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Old Apr 3, 2023 | 08:14 AM
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What is your voltmeter doing when this happens? One night, I noticed that mine would drop to 11.5V, and slowly decrease, as the high beams drained the battery. I drove home on low beams, and upgraded to a 150A 3-wire alternator. That fixed my problem, but some more info would help for yours.

@interpon has a thread showing how to rebuild an alternator, which is also a warning on buying rebuilt alternators.
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Old Apr 3, 2023 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Bikespace
What is your voltmeter doing when this happens? One night, I noticed that mine would drop to 11.5V, and slowly decrease, as the high beams drained the battery. I drove home on low beams, and upgraded to a 150A 3-wire alternator. That fixed my problem, but some more info would help for yours.

@interpon has a thread showing how to rebuild an alternator, which is also a warning on buying rebuilt alternators.
yup exactly what i was thinking..chinesium ac delco junk knocking rpm down compered to oem.

about post 114 give or take.
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