properly lifting the car
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 45
Likes: 7
From: FL
properly lifting the car
1982 C3 Corvette.
I've watched so many youtube videos. Some say to open the doors and hood before lifting the car. Others say not to. None of them specify how far to open the door/hood. Should they be cracked? open all the way? Does it matter if jacking up vs 4point lifting?
I've watched so many youtube videos. Some say to open the doors and hood before lifting the car. Others say not to. None of them specify how far to open the door/hood. Should they be cracked? open all the way? Does it matter if jacking up vs 4point lifting?
Last edited by errant_rider; Apr 17, 2023 at 01:47 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 211
Likes: 148
From: NJ->WI
I jacked mine up from the leaf spring center bracket, doors closed and front wheels on the ground. Left it on jack stands underneath where the frame turns up over the rear wheels... The doors opened and closed no problem throughout the process of replacing the cushion bolts.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,416
Likes: 1,826
From: Apple Valley, MN
If jacking the rear alone, you have nothing to be concerned about regarding doors. You can jack under the leaf spring bracket or you can jack at the ends of the main section of the frame.
If jacking on the front alone, you can jack under the lower control arms but avoid using the front crossmember as it will deform under the weight of the car. Again, no need to worry about the doors. Best to avoid using the frame in the vicinity of the #1 and #2 mounts as that will induce a moment arm due to the large amount of weight due to the engine and that long front end and strain the body.
If four pointing on the frame, the same issue of the moment arm being applied as described above comes into play.
If jacking on the front alone, you can jack under the lower control arms but avoid using the front crossmember as it will deform under the weight of the car. Again, no need to worry about the doors. Best to avoid using the frame in the vicinity of the #1 and #2 mounts as that will induce a moment arm due to the large amount of weight due to the engine and that long front end and strain the body.
If four pointing on the frame, the same issue of the moment arm being applied as described above comes into play.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 45
Likes: 7
From: FL
If jacking the rear alone, you have nothing to be concerned about regarding doors. You can jack under the leaf spring bracket or you can jack at the ends of the main section of the frame.
If jacking on the front alone, you can jack under the lower control arms but avoid using the front crossmember as it will deform under the weight of the car. Again, no need to worry about the doors. Best to avoid using the frame in the vicinity of the #1 and #2 mounts as that will induce a moment arm due to the large amount of weight due to the engine and that long front end and strain the body.
If four pointing on the frame, the same issue of the moment arm being applied as described above comes into play.
If jacking on the front alone, you can jack under the lower control arms but avoid using the front crossmember as it will deform under the weight of the car. Again, no need to worry about the doors. Best to avoid using the frame in the vicinity of the #1 and #2 mounts as that will induce a moment arm due to the large amount of weight due to the engine and that long front end and strain the body.
If four pointing on the frame, the same issue of the moment arm being applied as described above comes into play.
I'm trying to understand more from this picture here, which seems to imply to jack at the tires themselves? Also seems to imply a 3 point lift by the Pumpkin and whatever those 2 black pieces are up front? Let's assume I'm a bit of an idiot when explaining the rest of this...because I feel like one right about now.
https://imgur.com/USHOOaA
Last edited by errant_rider; Apr 17, 2023 at 02:15 PM.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
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The majority of the issues are on 68 convertibles, then any year convertible, I would not expect any issues with any coupe flexing that badly that the doors wouldnt open. My 6 convertible door gaps open from a a small gap to nearly a half inch without any binding with the mechanisms to open the doors, closing they dont want to close smoothly. You should be fine. Only way to figure it out for your car is jack it up and watch the door gaps
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,416
Likes: 1,826
From: Apple Valley, MN
sorry, what is the #1 and #2 mount? I'm trying to prep for doing the calipers and brakes all around on the car.
I'm trying to understand more from this picture here, which seems to imply to jack at the tires themselves? Also seems to imply a 3 point lift by the Pumpkin and whatever those 2 black pieces are up front? Let's assume I'm a bit of an idiot when explaining the rest of this...because I feel like one right about now.
https://imgur.com/USHOOaA
I'm trying to understand more from this picture here, which seems to imply to jack at the tires themselves? Also seems to imply a 3 point lift by the Pumpkin and whatever those 2 black pieces are up front? Let's assume I'm a bit of an idiot when explaining the rest of this...because I feel like one right about now.
https://imgur.com/USHOOaA
The two “black pieces” at the front are commonly called frame horns. They are the forward most portion of the actual frame rails. Frame horn extensions are pieces that bolt in and support the front crossmember that sits at the bottom of the radiator core support.
Do not try to 3 point. On the rears, you also need to know that if you jack to full suspension travel, you’ll experience half-shaft U joint binding (you won’t be able to turn the wheels). Once you have the frame jacked and supported, you’ll want to jack the suspension an inch or two to avoid the problem.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,152
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From: US-PNW
Jack at the four points between the tires -- and use jack stands for safety.
As far as opening and closing doors, if the car is lifted evenly there'll be no problem. If the car is jacked and sitting with any sort of twist, just be careful that the door doesn't drag on the body at the opening. Even coupes (t-topped bodies) flex a bit.
One last thing, don't be tempted to place the jack between the front wheels - that curved bottom panel will dent with the weight of the car if you do.
As far as opening and closing doors, if the car is lifted evenly there'll be no problem. If the car is jacked and sitting with any sort of twist, just be careful that the door doesn't drag on the body at the opening. Even coupes (t-topped bodies) flex a bit.
One last thing, don't be tempted to place the jack between the front wheels - that curved bottom panel will dent with the weight of the car if you do.
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Back when I bought my 77 there was no Corvette forum. I just put a jack under the frame and lifted. Never heard such nonsense about opening doors and such. To this day I open and close the doors while on jackstands, run the engine on jackstands. Etc. I've owned this car since Christ was a boy. Never an issue. These cars are built on a full frame. What is all the worry about?
Safety Car
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I lift mine on the 2 post with the 4 arms roughly under the 2 ton and 6 ton markings are. Is that bad? Never noticed any issues. I would think that these spots would be OK unless you have a car with frame rust issues. With less than 50,000 miles, my frame is really nice and it has been garaged a large part of its life and hasn't been a daily driver since the early 1980's.
To me. C3's are really different from other American cars and you have to think about how they were designed/put together......almost British car type of assembly to me. Don't take me wrong, I still love my C3 though!
To me. C3's are really different from other American cars and you have to think about how they were designed/put together......almost British car type of assembly to me. Don't take me wrong, I still love my C3 though!
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If you have the owners manual it explains exactly how & where to lift.
No mention of opening the doors or hood...
No mention of opening the doors or hood...
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,428
Likes: 8,232
From: Napa Valley California
In the illustration above, the lifting points on the frame are at the 2 and 6 ton frame markings.
Lift in this area and set your jack stands in this area as well.
Many people, myself included, will also place jack stands under the front frame horns to support the front, but don’t use this area for jacking.
You can lift one side at a time, I use two floor jacks, or lift the front or the rear separately, again using two floor jacks and jack stands at the jacking points.
I never worry about opening or closing doors, the hood or unlatching the t tops.
Many people use the rear spring mount and the front crossmember as jacking points.
I wouldn’t use the front crossmember because you will dent it.
There is an optional jacking plate made specifically for the front crossmember, manufactured by David Howard, ALLC34Me, and once you install it you can use the crossmember for jacking the front.
Don’t forget to chalk the front tires if you are lifting the rear end only or first.
Be safe.
Lift in this area and set your jack stands in this area as well.
Many people, myself included, will also place jack stands under the front frame horns to support the front, but don’t use this area for jacking.
You can lift one side at a time, I use two floor jacks, or lift the front or the rear separately, again using two floor jacks and jack stands at the jacking points.
I never worry about opening or closing doors, the hood or unlatching the t tops.
Many people use the rear spring mount and the front crossmember as jacking points.
I wouldn’t use the front crossmember because you will dent it.
There is an optional jacking plate made specifically for the front crossmember, manufactured by David Howard, ALLC34Me, and once you install it you can use the crossmember for jacking the front.
Don’t forget to chalk the front tires if you are lifting the rear end only or first.
Be safe.
Cruising
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 14
Likes: 10
From: Michigan
What do you suggest if I only have one floor jack?
And as the OP stated, please be basic and act like I am a beginner just learning...because I pretty much am. (although I did replace the gas tank and radiator).
Thank you in advance!
And as the OP stated, please be basic and act like I am a beginner just learning...because I pretty much am. (although I did replace the gas tank and radiator).
Thank you in advance!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,428
Likes: 8,232
From: Napa Valley California
First, buy another floor jack.
If that isn’t in you budget, then jack the rear using the spring mount under the rear spring.
Then make a wood piece to fit under and support the front crossmember so you don’t dent it and jack up the front using the front crossmember as your jacking point.
If you are going to lift under the front crossmember, purchase one of David Howard’s reinforcement plates.
After you install one, you won’t need a wood piece and you won’t damage the crossmember.
Always be safe, block your wheels and use good jackstands.
If that isn’t in you budget, then jack the rear using the spring mount under the rear spring.
Then make a wood piece to fit under and support the front crossmember so you don’t dent it and jack up the front using the front crossmember as your jacking point.
If you are going to lift under the front crossmember, purchase one of David Howard’s reinforcement plates.
After you install one, you won’t need a wood piece and you won’t damage the crossmember.
Always be safe, block your wheels and use good jackstands.