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I am realizing now that the turn signal wire and stop light wire must be wired together somewhere underneath the dash. The question is, is it wired together before or after it goes through the flasher? If wired together after turn signal wire goes through flasher relay, then that would be a simple solution of just replacing the signal from the relay to go straight to the yellow line of my new tailights; bypassing it joining the brake light.
For example, wire goes from turn signal switch > first prong of flasher relay > out the second prong of flasher relay > joins brake light wire > tailight?
Or is it like this; wire goes from turn signal switch > joins break light wire > brake light/turn signal wire goes into first prong of flasher relay > brake light/turn signal wire goes out from second prong of flasher relay > tailight?
Is there a wiring diagram for the lights on a 77'?
To get the lights to work correctly-Just run a new brake light wire. No need to mess with the turn signal wire. Do need to replace the flasher -
However make sure the polarity is correct on the flasher- IIRC in the mid eights GM changed the polarity (see below)
Simply cut the white wire at the brake light switch and connect a new wire at the switch ( not the part of the wire that runs to the steering column harmonica) to run to the tail lights.
GM using two filament bulbs for light from 3 different sources- turn/brake/parking was done rater simplistic.
The parking light wire light uses the longer filament ( more resistance ) and less light output.
The Turn signal uses the shorter filament ( less resistance) and it's brighter- the brake light uses the same filament.
However- when you have the brake light on - and use the turn signal- the light sees more voltage- as two wires are now powering the same filament- hence the turn flash is brighter than just the brake.
To get the lights to work correctly-Just run a new brake light wire. No need to mess with the turn signal wire. Do need to replace the flasher -
However make sure the polarity is correct on the flasher- IIRC in the mid eights GM changed the polarity (see below)
Simply cut the white wire at the brake light switch and connect a new wire at the switch ( not the part of the wire that runs to the steering column harmonica) to run to the tail lights.
GM using two filament bulbs for light from 3 different sources- turn/brake/parking was done rater simplistic.
The parking light wire light uses the longer filament ( more resistance ) and less light output.
The Turn signal uses the shorter filament ( less resistance) and it's brighter- the brake light uses the same filament.
However- when you have the brake light on - and use the turn signal- the light sees more voltage- as two wires are now powering the same filament- hence the turn flash is brighter than just the brake.
Ok where is the brake light switch located?As of right now the car's yellow wire is the brake/turn signal one on the driver side. It operates as both. Let's say I run a new brake light wire from the switch like you mentioned. Do I just connect the previous yellow wire to my new tail lights turn signal function wire (but if I step on the brake will this yellow wire still function as a brake light or because I cut it from the switch it no longer will operate as that)? and then I connect the new brake light wire from the switch to the brake light function wire on the new tailight?
Ok where is the brake light switch located?As of right now the car's yellow wire is the brake/turn signal one on the driver side. It operates as both. Let's say I run a new brake light wire from the switch like you mentioned. Do I just connect the previous yellow wire to my new tail lights turn signal function wire (but if I step on the brake will this yellow wire still function as a brake light or because I cut it from the switch it no longer will operate as that)? and then I connect the new brake light wire from the switch to the brake light function wire on the new tailight?
Yep- catch the wire right-at the brake light switch (above-at the pedal} Then just wire that directly to the tail lights brake..
You will use the yellow wire at the rear of the car for the driver side turn signal. You will use the dark green for the left tail light turn. The Lt green for the reverse. Brown for parking.
Yep- catch the wire right-at the brake light switch (above-at the pedal} Then just wire that directly to the tail lights brake..
You will use the yellow wire at the rear of the car for the driver side turn signal. You will use the dark green for the left tail light turn. The Lt green for the reverse. Brown for parking.
Awesome ok I will do that! Thank you for clarifying that for me. Since the tail lights I purchased have the ability to light up the red ring for the brake light on all FOUR tail lights, how should I go about wiring that so that all FOUR red rings on my new tail lights light up when I step on the brake pedal? Should I just tap into my new wire I am running and have 3 new lines go to each tail light (the other 3 tail lights)? Also should I add a fuse in between the new wire and new tail light for safety or is that not necessary?
Here is the diagram for the wiring on a 1977 Corvette. I went ahead and picked out the wire that I need to cut (highlighted in red) and ran my new wire (highlighted in green) to the rear of the car to each tailight. Could you let me know if the line I picked out to cut is the correct one and the new line I am running is from the correct location.
Me thinks you're going the led route the hard way. In my 81 I just replaced the 1157 bulbs with the appropriate led red equivalent. The flashing issue was cured by just replacing the flasher with an electronic one. (less than $20 at Discount Auto)
Here is the diagram for the wiring on a 1977 Corvette. I went ahead and picked out the wire that I need to cut (highlighted in red) and ran my new wire (highlighted in green) to the rear of the car to each tailight. Could you let me know if the line I picked out to cut is the correct one and the new line I am running is from the correct location.
You got it- that's how to do it.
Originally Posted by Roy W.
Me thinks you're going the led route the hard way. In my 81 I just replaced the 1157 bulbs with the appropriate led red equivalent. The flashing issue was cured by just replacing the flasher with an electronic one. (less than $20 at Discount Auto)
I think the OP is not just wanting ti replace with LEDs- but rather customize the vehicle to their tastes- and make improvements the lighting system -which will also make the car safer to drive. Win -Win.
I think the OP is not just wanting ti replace with LEDs- but rather customize the vehicle to their tastes- and make improvements the lighting system -which will also make the car safer to drive. Win -Win.
Awesome. Yes I want a custom look instead of just swapping to LED bulbs and want to make improvements to the signal switching and all 4 brake lights operating.
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Also is this the current thermal flasher (circled in red) that I will need to replace to an electronic one? If so, this one (current thermal flasher) has 2 prongs which connect the purple and pink/white wires to it. The new flasher has 3 prongs. I'm assuming the purple and pink/white wires enter to the same prongs and the leftover 3rd prong is just a ground wire, right?
Awesome. Yes I want a custom look instead of just swapping to LED bulbs and want to make improvements to the signal switching and all 4 brake lights operating.
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Also is this the current thermal flasher (circled in red) that I will need to replace to an electronic one? If so, this one (current thermal flasher) has 2 prongs which connect the purple and pink/white wires to it. The new flasher has 3 prongs. I'm assuming the purple and pink/white wires enter to the same prongs and the leftover 3rd prong is just a ground wire, right?
Flashers ARE different. You don't wanna guess-
This type is the best designed universal I have seen. Non- polarized- as it uses a separate wire for ground. Will work on your 2 connecter/prong type w/o issues.
This type is the best designed universal I have seen. Non- polarized- as it uses a separate wire for ground. Will work on your 2 connecter/prong type w/o issues.
Got it, so the one I circled in red is the correct flasher to swap to a LED one? And you are saying that the link your provided for the flasher is the easiest and best one to swap with?
I need to change (directional flashers) for no hyperflash and the hazard flasher to an electrical one as well. Do you happen to also have a link for the electronic hazard flasher that fits into the fuse box? My vettes current hazard flasher is at the top right corner of the fuse box and I don't know if that is a general part in which they make electrical versions of and can just be swapped out.
Got it, so the one I circled in red is the correct flasher to swap to a LED one? And you are saying that the link your provided for the flasher is the easiest and best one to swap with?
I need to change (directional flashers) for no hyperflash and the hazard flasher to an electrical one as well. Do you happen to also have a link for the electronic hazard flasher that fits into the fuse box? My vettes current hazard flasher is at the top right corner of the fuse box and I don't know if that is a general part in which they make electrical versions of and can just be swapped out.
Yes- you'll need to change out both-
Yes- it definitely can be swapped out. The wires don't care what kind of flasher is hooked to it. BUT you need to make sure of the polarity- Power and load(bulbs)
On the relay it'll be marked X (power source) and L (load AKA bulbs)
The reason I don't prefer this one- is if the polarity is wrong - you will see some smoke.
The 2 prong with a ground wire version is a much safer bet for a non electrical type person.
The place where you really need to worry about the LEDs are if you also replace the indicators in the dash. When flashing, the ground path for the marker light is through the dash indicator, and if you use an LED there you won't get proper blinking, no matter what kind of blinker you use.
If you replace the indicator in the dash with an LED, you WILL need a resistor in parallel. And you'll want one that has a heatsink and is rated for enough wattage to handle the lights on that side of the car. 5W should do if you go all LED. 47 ohms will closely mimic the old bulb.
The place where you really need to worry about the LEDs are if you also replace the indicators in the dash. When flashing, the ground path for the marker light is through the dash indicator, and if you use an LED there you won't get proper blinking, no matter what kind of blinker you use.
If you replace the indicator in the dash with an LED, you WILL need a resistor in parallel. And you'll want one that has a heatsink and is rated for enough wattage to handle the lights on that side of the car. 5W should do if you go all LED. 47 ohms will closely mimic the old bulb.
But I won't be changing my marker lights to LEDs. I am leaving those as is and aren't those just bulbs? Also just to be sure, the marker lights are the lights on the sides of the car (front side is orange, rear side is red), not the tailights or front lights? Also I actually already did replace the indicators in the guages with a Dakota Digital system. I have not switched my rear tailights to LEDs yet but so far, with the stock set up, the indicators in the guages blink normally. Are you saying to install 5W resistors before each tailight?
But I won't be changing my marker lights to LEDs. I am leaving those as is and aren't those just bulbs? Also just to be sure, the marker lights are the lights on the sides of the car (front side is orange, rear side is red), not the tailights or front lights? Also I actually already did replace the indicators in the guages with a Dakota Digital system. I have not switched my rear tailights to LEDs yet but so far, with the stock set up, the indicators in the guages blink normally. Are you saying to install 5W resistors before each tailight?
It's the actual indicator bulb in the dash that needs to provide a path - I'm not sure how the dakota digital setup works, but they may have accounted for that (or maybe you plug the existing bulb into their cluster?).
Other than what other people have mentioned here about the blinkers, you shouldn't need any special accommodations at each tail light.
It's the actual indicator bulb in the dash that needs to provide a path - I'm not sure how the dakota digital setup works, but they may have accounted for that (or maybe you plug the existing bulb into their cluster?).
Other than what other people have mentioned here about the blinkers, you shouldn't need any special accommodations at each tail light.
Gotcha that sounds good. For the Dakota Digital system I just followed the instruction manual which asked me to run all my wiring to their VHX Box then out to the guages. So I think they accounted for everything when I wired it altogether in the VHX Box that they provide.
I will be sure to send photos of the finished product once I complete everything, and if I have any more questions or problems I will come to this thread and ask. Here are some pictures of the idea that it will look like. I havent hooked anything up and the old lights are still there but this is what it will look like.
Yes- it definitely can be swapped out. The wires don't care what kind of flasher is hooked to it. BUT you need to make sure of the polarity- Power and load(bulbs)
On the relay it'll be marked X (power source) and L (load AKA bulbs)
The reason I don't prefer this one- is if the polarity is wrong - you will see some smoke.
The 2 prong with a ground wire version is a much safer bet for a non electrical type person.
Hey Richard454, just now getting to swapping my flashers. Went ahead and swapped the directional flasher and grounded it with the external ground wire it came with. Will attach photos to make sure everything looks correct to you.
Now getting to the hazard flasher in the fuse box. Is the link you sent (Amazon in this message that I am replying to) going to work if I just swap the old one out and put the new one in? This one does not come with an external ground wire. You mentioned I should worry about the polarity, but there is only one way where the two prongs of the electronic flasher enter into that section of the fusebox. If the polarity is wrong how would I go about reversing each prong? Or is the link you sent just swappable?
I just did the Pacific LED tails on my 78. You only need two electronic flashers with ground wires and swap them out. On my 78 the regular flasher was under the center console by the shifter and the hazards on the main fuse panel. I have a flasher style relay under the passenger dash with the pink and purple wire but that’s for the anti theft. I swapped out the two flashers and tested them out the other night. They are much brighter than stock housings by a long shot.
