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Just got the old one out but there’s no way I can pry the tongue down enough to get the new one in by myself. Does removing the tongue make it harder to get back together? Also noticed my rear brake line is leaking-fortunately Ecklers has the rear crossover in stainless for $25. Is this the correct order besides the lock washer which fell on top somewhere?
Last edited by Armybyrd21; May 18, 2023 at 04:46 PM.
Can you buy replacement brake lines. Yes. Every line and Junction block is available for these cars. Check any of the Corvette vendors. Shouldn't be a problem. I would advise that you stay away from stainless lines as they can be difficult to get to seal. Stay with the standard replacement stuff.
Assuming your car is now on jackstands. Put your floor jack right on the rear spring mount, with a block of wood of course. Jack the spring mount just a fuzz. Be careful. But that should tilt the diff slightly. Get the bushing in place and release that jack.
been awhile since I did mine, but I'm pretty sure that's what I had to do to slightly tilt the diff. You can try loosening the bracket bolts to get a bit of movement out of the bracket, but I wouldn't remove them or it could be difficult to get them back in.
Can you buy replacement brake lines. Yes. Every line and Junction block is available for these cars. Check any of the Corvette vendors. Shouldn't be a problem. I would advise that you stay away from stainless lines as they can be difficult to get to seal. Stay with the standard replacement stuff.
Assuming your car is now on jackstands. Put your floor jack right on the rear spring mount, with a block of wood of course. Jack the spring mount just a fuzz. Be careful. But that should tilt the diff slightly. Get the bushing in place and release that jack.
been awhile since I did mine, but I'm pretty sure that's what I had to do to slightly tilt the diff. You can try loosening the bracket bolts to get a bit of movement out of the bracket, but I wouldn't remove them or it could be difficult to get them back in.
damn just ordered that section in stainless.
I left the storage spot for the day and put the car back on the ground but I’ll have to try that.
Do you mean under the leaf spring with a piece of wood?
Or do you mean in the center under the leaf spring?
Long bar under the rear sticking out towards the rear of the car and forward enough to get a strap around the nose of the bracket, pry up on the rear to force the nose down enough to sneak the bushing into place between the nose and the frame
Order of parts from the top down
Bolt goes in from the top
small plain washer
smaller cushion
Frame bracket
larger cushion
differential bracket
large plain washer (plate)
lock washer
Nut
The very center of the leaf spring. It's mounted to the diff. You just need to tilt the diff a hair to get the bushing into place. Above method also sounds like it would work with 2 guys. I never have that option.
Still cannot for the life of me get the tongue down enough to get the new bushing in place. There’s no way in hell one person can get it opened enough for the new bushing to fit in by themself.
Last edited by Armybyrd21; May 20, 2023 at 05:18 PM.
How bad would it be to drive it a few miles as is to a buddy’s house so I can get a hand?
If you still have the bushing between the frame bracket and the differential bracket in place, put the bolt back in with the new lower bushing and drive away. If you have removed both bushings, either reinstall the old upper bushing or fill the gap with some cheap hardware store washers and reinstall the bolt and drive to your friend. Do NOT attempt to drive without the assembly bolted together or you could damage your prop shaft U-joints if the driveshaft angle varies too much from original.
I think you'd have a hellofa time trying to squash the cushion up enough to line that bolt hole back up to re-install. I've done a couple using a 2x4 and strap but I'm on stands or now a quick-jack so it's easy enough to pry the back of the stick why slipping the cushion in
M
Long bar under the rear sticking out towards the rear of the car and forward enough to get a strap around the nose of the bracket, pry up on the rear to force the nose down enough to sneak the bushing into place between the nose and the frame
Order of parts from the top down
Bolt goes in from the top
small plain washer
smaller cushion
Frame bracket
larger cushion
differential bracket
large plain washer (plate)
lock washer
Nut
M
How long of a bar are you using? Like a 4+ft tanker bar? 😬
How long of a bar are you using? Like a 4+ft tanker bar? 😬
Last time at helping a guy with a 63 we actually used a 2x4, When I took mine apart to work on the drive shaft angle I used a heavy shovel handle. Something around 4' - 5' long.
Weight of the car can't be on the spring
M
Last time at helping a guy with a 63 we actually used a 2x4, When I took mine apart to work on the drive shaft angle I used a heavy shovel handle. Something around 4' - 5' long.
Weight of the car can't be on the spring
M
where exactly are you prying with the bar?
Meaning the rear has to be supported like on jackstands or?
I put the bar under the differential sticking out the front so it's under the nose bracket resting it under the spring and sticking out the rear. Wrap a strap (chain, rope, whatever) around the nose bracket and bar making sure it's not in the way of where the cushion goes. Then lift up on the other end of the bar and it basically pivots on the spring forcing the nose down enough to slip the cushion into place.
If the spare tub is in the way just put a chunk of 2x4 under the spring area and that will bring the bar down low enough to clear
If you're working by yourself (which I normally am) a floor jack under the end of the bar works easy. Doesn't take much effort depending on how long the bar is and you just want it enough to put the cushion in otherwise it'll start trying to lift the car if you try to open it up a lot
Working on Snubber bushing
