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Just finished up the first rebuild (passenger side). New rollers, new glass, cleaned and lubed the channels and manual regulator, and got the window to fit way better than it ever has. But now when I lower it, the crank will stop randomly. If I back up a fraction, I can then roll down further. It'll usually jam two or three times from fully closed to fully open. No issues raising the window.
Rollers are properly installed, and the regulator gear looks great. Did I miss something?
Manual or power? I assume it all worked before? Any wires or cables like for an adjust sport mirror inside the door? It sounds like the gear on the regulator is getting hung up, did you lube that when you put it all back? Did you reinstall the arm rest? Sometmes the screws will stick out too far inside and catch one of the tracks. Is the window centered front to back? I am having a similar issue only with the pwr window going up and it appears that my window weatherstrip is old and not as pliable as it should be and the window stops about an inch from the top.
Manual or power? I assume it all worked before? Any wires or cables like for an adjust sport mirror inside the door? It sounds like the gear on the regulator is getting hung up, did you lube that when you put it all back? Did you reinstall the arm rest? Sometmes the screws will stick out too far inside and catch one of the tracks. Is the window centered front to back? I am having a similar issue only with the pwr window going up and it appears that my window weatherstrip is old and not as pliable as it should be and the window stops about an inch from the top.
Manual. It all worked before. No wires or cables interfering. Regulator cleaned and lubed. Door panel not yet re-installed. Window is actually pretty well aligned, which wasn't possible previously with the worn rollers. Weatherstrip has been previously replaced, and it's soft and pliable.
Inside the crank handle mount is a wavy washer that keeps tension on the gearshaft that the handle fits onto. Maybe the wavy washer inside is missing or needs a flat-washer shim to keep the crank gear and the regulator teeth meshed?
Inside the crank handle mount is a wavy washer that keeps tension on the gearshaft that the handle fits onto. Maybe the wavy washer inside is missing or needs a flat-washer shim to keep the crank gear and the regulator teeth meshed?
What was odd is that there were actually TWO of the wavy washers inside the housing. I figured it was a mistake on someone's part, as they were nested, and could easily be overlooked. I only put one of them back in. Maybe there were two for a reason... I'll put the second one back in, and see if that helps.
Is there a lot of side-to-side play where the crank-rod goes thru the housing?
The wavey washers/housing wear may not be the problem, but just checking all the weird possibilities.
Is there a lot of side-to-side play where the crank-rod goes thru the housing?
The wavey washers/housing wear may not be the problem, but just checking all the weird possibilities.
None. Bushing, and the shaft the handle mounts on, look like new.
Can you shine a flashlight down inside the window and start to lower it and see if it is hitting something. Or maybe mark the glass when it gets stuck and then look at that part on the track to see if something is getting in the way. What color is the car? OK, that isn't really important just thought it would take your mind off things for a moment. I am stumped too.
Can you shine a flashlight down inside the window and start to lower it and see if it is hitting something. Or maybe mark the glass when it gets stuck and then look at that part on the track to see if something is getting in the way. What color is the car? OK, that isn't really important just thought it would take your mind off things for a moment. I am stumped too.
Color is Brands Hatch Green. Well, that did take my mind off the window for a moment ; )
The issue's with the regulator. The big "fan" gear is good, but I'm thinking the little one that it mates with, is not. May end up going with a rebuilt from Bair's, unless I can figure out how to fix the one I have.
Is the shaft-gear-teeth too far away from the rgulator teeth? I have my door apart and can post pics if you need them/p.m. me to remind :meself".
It glitches at the same spot on the small (non-serviceable) gear, every rotation, in the "down" direction. I enlarged the "inspection" hole a bit, to get a better view, but can't see for sure what the issue is. To my knowledge, the distance between the two gears isn't adjustable. Looks like I'll be replacing the regulator.
You can remove thehousing/take the shaft-gear out and use a triangle file to dressthe teeth untilthe look similar.
You can also elongate the 3? bolt holes in the housing approx. 1/16" each which will cause the shaft-gear to mesh better with the regulator teeth. JUST make sure you elongate the holes in the correct area to "move" the housing closer to the reg. teeth.
You can also use the file to dress the regulator teeth.
You can remove thehousing/take the shaft-gear out and use a triangle file to dressthe teeth untilthe look similar.
You can also elongate the 3? bolt holes in the housing approx. 1/16" each which will cause the shaft-gear to mesh better with the regulator teeth. JUST make sure you elongate the holes in the correct area to "move" the housing closer to the reg. teeth.
You can also use the file to dress the regulator teeth.
I gave you the wrong info about elongating the housing mounting holes to make the small gear mesh better with the fan gear.
After cleaning my stiff regulator it now makes a pop noise every revolution of the crank handle...which it did not make before cleaning.
I cannot see anything that is catching on the hardware to cause the pop.
I noticed the dowel pin in the small gear shaft is sticking farther to one side of the small shaft.
I will tap the dowel pin so it is centered in the shaft in case that is the problem?
I will reimstall everything today and see if the pop sound goes away.
Sorry about the confusion on my part.
I gave you the wrong info about elongating the housing mounting holes to make the small gear mesh better with the fan gear.
After cleaning my stiff regulator it now makes a pop noise every revolution of the crank handle...which it did not make before cleaning.
I cannot see anything that is catching on the hardware to cause the pop.
I noticed the dowel pin in the small gear shaft is sticking farther to one side of the small shaft.
I will tap the dowel pin so it is centered in the shaft in case that is the problem?
I will reimstall everything today and see if the pop sound goes away.
Sorry about the confusion on my part.
That's exactly what mine did. After I cleaned it is when I started having the issue. In the car, it would jam, but on the bench, it'll "pop" at the same spot on the small gear, every revolution.
After much deliberation ("Man, I'm tired of dealing with this"), I took the easy way out and ordered two rebuilts from Bair's. Ordered 'em Monday, and they showed up today, on the opposite coast. They're gorgeous; look new. I'm very pleased, and look forward to buttoning up the passenger side on Monday, and then repeating everything on the driver's side.
Hope yours worked out OK. On a separate note, I read a bunch of your build thread. Really impressive!
I found the cause of the popping noise by accident!
First I checked the gear teeth on the crank handle shaft...all in good condition.
Then I rotated the fan gear and checked the teeth on the small mating intermediate drive gear...all in good condition.
Then I noticed the pressed-in drive-pin was way off center...........
The vice and a ball peen hammer set the pin equally in the ball of the crank shaft.....MAN-that pin was pressed in tightly-it certainly didnt move out of place on it's own...
No more popping/smooth as can be going up or down.
Nice! I wish that was the issue with mine, but it's in the regulator itself... does it even with the crankshaft removed, and you can watch the gear skip.
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Window jams when opening
Thanks again!
