Hey guys.
The gentleman who I bought the beat up 1980 Corvette from has a 383 engine he purchased from Blueprint Engines. He had it in the car for a very short time and I mean very short, it's basically new, and was having clutch issues, so he pulled it back out. However, prior to that, he pressure washed the engine bay and even though he attempted to seal off the engine as best he could, got water in numbers 7 and 8 cylinders. Unfortunately, he didn't realize that until much later.
I haven't seen it yet but am assuming the affected cylinders to be rusty. Basically, in my mind, I would be buying the stroker kit, aluminum heads and intake manifold. I could then install everything in and onto the original block from my car.
As I mentioned, I haven't seen the engine yet, so I don't know which intake it has. It does have Blueprints own cylinder heads; I guess they are a decent piece.
He couldn't remember which HP version he bought, but it's probably one of the lower power ones. He purchased it from Jegs some time ago. Pretty sure hypereutectic pistons, not sure on the rods.
He wants $2000 for it. Does that sound like a decent deal? I'm a Chevy novice, so I really don't know. I've done a little poking around and from what I've seen, I couldn't buy this stuff new for that price.

Thanks.

 

If you are going to install the 383 parts into your block you will need it bored + .030 and honed of course.

 

How complete for $2000?
Bring one of those Amazon borescopes with you.......

Jebby

 

Yes, I've taken that into account.

Pretty much a complete engine, minus carb., distributor and headers.

Also, I'm not sure if it is equipped with a hydraulic roller cam or flat tappet, or roller rockers or stock style. The owner wasn't able to give any specifics.
He's at Sturgis right now for a couple weeks. When he gets back, I'll be able to eyeball everything for myself.

EDIT Jebby, are you a member on the Honda CB1100F forum?

 

I am/was.....I stopped posting in 2015......still have my CBX.

Jebby

 

The crank out of the stroker may not fit your block.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe your 1980 block is a two piece rear main seal, I think the one piece rear main seal SBC came out in the early '90's.
The Blueprint block and crank may be a one piece rear main seal.

That's not to say it wouldn't be worth rebuilding the stroker block, probably after getting it bored.

You can tell the one piece from the two piece by looking at the flywheel mounting flange on the crank.

 

Good point. I didn't think of that.

 

There is a red metal plate on the drivers side of the block, get those numbers and call blue print, they will tell you exactly what is in it and probably the dyno numbers... 2K for a rusty block and who knows what else got wet..????

I'm thinking they went to a One Piece seal in 86 about the same time as roller lifters which might be 87..

60

 

Is the motor seized? if not oil it up with fresh oil, and fire it up...maybe the rings will be okay and you will be able to run the rust out of the cylinder...If it isnt seized it isnt going to get any worse. Half of these online TV car shows fire up junk that has been in a field or junkyard just to see if it will fire and they are in a lot worse condition than this
Other than that you are right, you cant buy what you are getting for $2000 bucks...maybe it is a roller motor and you will have made a big score...roller lifters are really pricey

 

The story has me scratching my head and wtf is/has happened.
anywho, I hope the 383 is all that and a bag of chips.
good luck

 

Ask if he has paperwork for the BPE. I have a BPE 396 stroker and they shipped the paperwork in a packet that includes the engine model number and dyno sheet- every BPE owner should keep that info well guarded and not toss it out. With the model number, you should be able to find out the build sheet for it if not too old. You can also call BP, and they should be able to tell you. The heads are nice units IMO, and have been updated over the years. The heads should have the model number stamped on them.

 

I would pass unless your up for rebuild , other wise it could end up being a real bug fogger

 

I would be buying it as a rebuilder. If the bores aren't horrible, I could possibly get by with a hone and new rings.
I'm not familiar enough with Chevy blocks, but depending on where the bore is now, if it needs to be bored and has enough meat on the cylinders to go as far as we need to clean it up, I'll go that route.

 

What you have to determine is if it is an old machine GM block or the newer Blueprint proprietary block that they use now (Which I believe is now made by World Products).
If it is a GM block....most of them were .040 and not really rebuildable.....
Of course...you will find all this out when you get it.....

Jebby

 

According to BPE, they use blocks cast in a foundry here in the USA.

 

would be good to know just what parts the 383 has.
cast or forged;
crank
pistons
rods

heads specs

and any parts making it a long block.

 

If the OP can get ahold of the BPE part number he can get all that info. Heads are easy to get specs - Model number is on the front of the head casting.