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I’m having a problem installing the alarm tamper switch, in that when I tighten it up so that the button is fully depressed against the terminal leg, the threaded end breaks before I can reach that point. I’ve now broken 3 new ones (threaded ends broke), and each time I use even more caution. I only tighten it enough to that the button is fully depressed against the terminal.
My questions are:
What is the secret to this install so as to not break the plastic threaded end?
Has anyone found a way to repair the threaded ends to make them stronger?
Hard to believe they weren't already breaking off of the headlights for several years before they decided to use them on the anti-tamper setup in 74 but they went ahead and did it anyway...
I just tighten the nut up basically finger tight and put a little dab of sealant on the exposed end of the thread (just to make sure it doesn't vibrate loose or anything) and after than avoid even looking at it too hard, a brief glance or side-eye at best.
I recently replaced both and before I installed them I sealed the clip sides with JB Weld. There is a small notch in the hole that lines up with a small tab on the switch,if you install it incorrectly the threaded part wont allow the nut the seat correctly and this will stress the threaded part.
I used the 24hr jb weld to repair the 3 switches that broke and always make sure they're installed properly and they broke again. At about $50.00 Canadian each including tax and shipping, I'm not ready to purchase more until I find a good solution to the installation. I had a friend (Vette owner) try to install them and they broke with him also.
I used the 24hr jb weld to repair the 3 switches that broke and always make sure they're installed properly and they broke again. At about $50.00 Canadian each including tax and shipping, I'm not ready to purchase more until I find a good solution to the installation. I had a friend (Vette owner) try to install them and they broke with him also.
Something else you can do is check and see how tight the bolt is on the threads of the switch. It might be necessary to go over the threads with a die and loosen them up a bit.
Man that's just crazy. I'm using 50year old ones and they are brittle but not like that. I wonder if the new ones aren't even worse than the originals as far as strength.
I'm guessing yours broke in the normal place where it snaps the 1/2 threaded stud off of the main body? I do remember looking at one once and wondering if a flattened head stove or carriage bolt cold be fit into the broken body somehow but never really pursued it beyond that as my 2 are still intact
I've got a broken switch around here somewhere I should dig out and look at to see if it could be modified to use something like this