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Old 03-12-2024, 10:31 PM
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MarkW68
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Hard lines run between the tank and the fuel pump. Rubber hoses are located at the gas tank for feed, return and vapor. Rubber hoses are also located at the fuel pump for feed and return. A hard line connects the pump with the carb, which you replaced when you wisely removed the inline fuel filter. Yes, go ahead and replace both rubber hoses at the fuel pump.
Originally Posted by C3Highway
I would also check the fuel pump for proper fuel pressure. My pump went out a couple years ago and that conked out the engine. But that's okay cuz it was forty years old. That's why we love these old cars.
​​​​
I'm enjoying your bringing this car back to life.

--------------------------
1979 L82 M21 FE7
Classic White / Doeskin

The fuel pump is new. On the Camaro I learned that this style of pump can fail in a way that it pumps gas into the crankcase. We had to make room in the garage one winter for a small job and pulled it out. We couldn't get it to start to bring it back inside. First snow it had seen in 30 years I bet. We were able to push it in, but no start. Over the new few days, I looked at the plugs, wires, and coil with no success. I checked the oil for some reason, and it was A QUART HIGH! How, when did I screw that up? I drained a quart and continued looking around. I tried a few times to start it. Ended up checking the oil again and it was high? Again? When I drained some oil this time, I noticed that the oil stunk and was extremely thin. It was when I learned about that kind of pump failure, so I replaced that pump.

Short version is that I didn't trust the old Corvette pump because of the experience with old Camaro pump.
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Old 03-18-2024, 03:38 PM
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I'm thinking about giving this a brush, wipe-down and some paint while the spare is out of the way. Freshen it up a bit.

Above the diff, covered by spare tire.
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Old 03-21-2024, 10:17 PM
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I finally got out the gas tank. It was simpler to cut the short rubber lines. They were extremely stiff, and did not want to come off the lines. The new lines are much more flexible.

With the tank out I was able to test the fuel sender. Nothing happens on the multimeter while moving the float. I'll get that ordered. I was worried about finding a bunch of rust in the tank. It turns out it has a heavy plastic liner. The area were gas has been sitting all these years is a bit discolored, but it seems fine.

Plastic liner.
Old 03-21-2024, 10:22 PM
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Found the build sheet. Can't really read it, but it's still cool.

No really legible.

Kansas. The car came with a Kansas dealership key ring.

Not much.
Old 03-22-2024, 10:49 AM
  #85  
C3Highway
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Originally Posted by MarkW68
I finally got out the gas tank. It was simpler to cut the short rubber lines. They were extremely stiff, and did not want to come off the lines. The new lines are much more flexible.
Good work.

Originally Posted by MarkW68
With the tank out I was able to test the fuel sender. Nothing happens on the multimeter while moving the float. I'll get that ordered. I was worried about finding a bunch of rust in the tank. It turns out it has a heavy plastic liner. The area were gas has been sitting all these years is a bit discolored, but it seems fine.
It sounds like the gas tank itself has survived many years of negligence. That's very good news. Combined with your restored QJet, new fuel pump, and your aluminum intake, your entire fuel delivery system will soon be in top-notch condition.

--------------------------
1979 L82 M21 FE7
Classic White / Doeskin
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Old 03-22-2024, 12:59 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by MarkW68
I'm thinking about giving this a brush, wipe-down and some paint while the spare is out of the way. Freshen it up a bit.

Above the diff, covered by spare tire.
I really like the way they look when kept stock. This is my 17K mile 79.


Last edited by Jon Hekking; 03-22-2024 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 03-22-2024, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon Hekking
I really like the way they look when kept stock. This is my 17K mile 79.
Wow, that does look good. Is that silvery-gray a paint? Natural? It looks like my surviving bits of frame paint was black.
I really like the dual pipe exhaust. Mine has the wye setup at the moment. I saw a kit somewhere that has the 2-pipe setup, and there are two holes in that crossmember. Gotta' let it breathe, right?

Last edited by MarkW68; 03-22-2024 at 06:15 PM. Reason: Clarification
Old 04-05-2024, 10:20 AM
  #88  
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Does anyone have a good shot of their upper radiator hose routing? I'm replacing the coolant lines, and I don’t think this setup is correct. This looks like it might be sort of a universal hose. I think I have the proper hose, but it seems like it could be close to the fan and/or the alternator belt.
Thank you

Current hose routing.
Old 04-05-2024, 11:12 AM
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With the gas tank out, I found the bolts that hold on the spoiler. I took it off to clean the crud under it. The spoiler looks like it originally was also glued in place. Was it glued? There are a few more holes that look like I could add some more screws to keep it in place. Should I? It would involve drilling corresponding holes in the rear panel.

Additional bolt holes? Some of the glue(?) visible as well.

Corresponding hole in panel.
Old 04-05-2024, 11:40 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by MarkW68
Does anyone have a good shot of their upper radiator hose routing? I'm replacing the coolant lines, and I don’t think this setup is correct. This looks like it might be sort of a universal hose. I think I have the proper hose, but it seems like it could be close to the fan and/or the alternator belt.
Thank you

Current hose routing.
That hose and routing are definitely not factory. Below is a picture of my car with a GM upper radiator hose and the proper routing. I found a pic with the air cleaner assembly removed so you can have a better looksee.

Note there are two different upper radiator hoses for 1979: 79E and 79L. I'm not sure when the change was made. I believe the only difference in the two hoses is 79L (which I have -- Aug '79 build) fits a larger radiator inlet. I noticed when I received my new DeWitts aluminum radiator (some 12 years ago) that the radiator inlet was made in such a way that it would accept either upper radiator hose, which saved me a potential headache.

--------------------------
1979 L82 M21 FE7
Classic White / Doeskin




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Old 04-05-2024, 01:59 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by C3Highway
Thank you for this. I read one way to tell early vs late was the number of compartments in the back. I have three. I forget which is which but I ordered the matching hose. This one bells out a bit at the radiator end. Hope it's right. At least I'll now have a good idea how it fits.
Old 04-05-2024, 07:51 PM
  #92  
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Here’s our setup. Views from both sides…


Driver’s side

Passenger side
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Old 04-09-2024, 11:00 PM
  #93  
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Fuel system is done for the time being. All rubber lines have been replaced, new fuel sending unit, new fuel pump and starter motor.

I'm going to look at the cooling system next. With that cleaned and filled, I'll be able to let it idle for a while.
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Old 04-16-2024, 11:56 AM
  #94  
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I finally found a decent surface rust remover. Carb parts cleaner didn't really get the rust, and wire wheels couldn't get into some spots. Wire wheels can make something "too shiny" if that makes sense.

This Evapo-rust kind of leaves some of that patina behind while disolving surface rust.


A before and after.
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Old 04-24-2024, 10:10 PM
  #95  
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I opened the driver’s side front caliper today. I'm not sure, but I think it's gone. While the bores are shiny, they aren't smooth and have some rough spots. I can't tell if it has been sleeved. There is some rusty colored goo on some of the pistons which I assume is simply rust build up.

The hard and rubber lines didn't want to come apart, so it might be new hard lines as well.


Example of the bore.


Sample of the piston gunk and condition.


Hopefully good bore detail.


General. I tried some bronze scubbing on spots.
Old 04-24-2024, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkW68
I opened the driver’s side front caliper today. I'm not sure, but I think it's gone. While the bores are shiny, they aren't smooth and have some rough spots. I can't tell if it has been sleeved. There is some rusty colored goo on some of the pistons which I assume is simply rust build up.

The hard and rubber lines didn't want to come apart, so it might be new hard lines as well.

They don't appear sleeved to me. Stainless sleeves don't pit or become rough unless scratched or gouged. About the only thing you'll come across with sleeves is staining but the walls should still feel smooth.
Old 04-25-2024, 07:58 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by MarkW68
Thank you for this. I read one way to tell early vs late was the number of compartments in the back. I have three. I forget which is which but I ordered the matching hose. This one bells out a bit at the radiator end. Hope it's right. At least I'll now have a good idea how it fits.
here is a november build 1978…79 l82 4sp original upper hose still..
if you get bored..the threads i started covers everything but engine removal on a 79 L82 and the help i got





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Old 04-26-2024, 12:44 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by interpon
here is a november build 1978…79 l82 4sp original upper hose still..
if you get bored..the threads i started covers everything but engine removal on a 79 L82 and the help i got
So shiny...
Old 04-26-2024, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
here is a november build 1978…79 l82 4sp original upper hose still.
Beautiful engine bay, Interpon. A great example to emulate as it looks like a time capsule. I suspect Mark's engine bay will appear similar in due time.
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Old 04-26-2024, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
here is a november build 1978…79 l82 4sp original upper hose still..
if you get bored..the threads i started covers everything but engine removal on a 79 L82 and the help i got






Very nice, I see a lot of my 79 L82 car with 17,000 miles in it. The one component I can't find is the original distributor shield, it was missing when I bought it.

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