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I am preparing to drop the fuel tank on my '72 coupe so I can recover the build sheet with as little damage as possible. As you can see in the photo, the sheet is currently over the passenger side strap that goes over tank. My concern is that when I loosen the bolt that secures it, the strap will spring upward and tear through the build sheet.
Does anyone have advice on how to loosen the strap without damaging the sheet? Any other advice on the process?
I don't recall having the strap spring up when I removed the strap. But you might tie a piece of string to the strap end holding it or tie it off to something. Use some lubricant on the bolt(s) wait a few hours then remove them.
FYI, if I recall from Alan71 he stated not to put the Build Sheet into a Zip Lock bag as it will react and degrade the document, it has to be preserved in clear folder. Ask here online what others have done to preserve theirs.
Good luck.
Good picture...Did you take that with a cell phone or a borescope?
I think you have a couple of options here.
You can take the risk of loosening the straps and go a little at a time to prevent the spring action you fear...
or
Another way, (If you are replacing the tank and the straps), is to use sheet metal screws to secure the straps to the tank on the front and back as it sits.
Then you cut the straps and remove the tank with the straps and build sheet still intact. If I was worried about igniting gas fumes, I would probably fill the tank halfway with water, install the screws, below the waterline, then drain the tank.
Good picture...Did you take that with a cell phone or a borescope?
I just used my cell phone. It's pretty easy with the spare tire carrier removed.
Originally Posted by n2h2o2
I think you have a couple of options here.
You can take the risk of loosening the straps and go a little at a time to prevent the spring action you fear...
or
Another way, (If you are replacing the tank and the straps), is to use sheet metal screws to secure the straps to the tank on the front and back as it sits.
Then you cut the straps and remove the tank with the straps and build sheet still intact. If I was worried about igniting gas fumes, I would probably fill the tank halfway with water, install the screws, below the waterline, then drain the tank.
I prefer to leave as much original as possible. Some hoses may be replaced depending on their condition and the exposed part of the sending unit is a bit rusty, but I want to re-use the tank and straps. I think I'll loosen the driver's side strap first to gauge the amount of "spring-up".
I just used my cell phone. It's pretty easy with the spare tire carrier removed.
Maybe try to get a picture from the top by moving the rubber cup on the filler neck out of the way.
probably easier with a borescope, but you may be able to get a corner of your phone in there...
Maybe see if you can get your phone on the side of the tank and front too???
I prefer to leave as much original as possible. Some hoses may be replaced depending on their condition and the exposed part of the sending unit is a bit rusty, but I want to re-use the tank and straps. I think I'll loosen the driver's side strap first to gauge the amount of "spring-up".
Understand...I think you have a good plan...
That paper is dry as a cracker...Maybe use a very fine mist from a spray bottle or a humidifier to make it a bit more pliable?
As for storing the build sheet (or any photo or paper document) it is best to store them in polyester sleeves.
The Library of Congress as well as the National Archives recommends this.
There is no way to get that tank out without it separating from that strap so it will rip either when the strap springs up or the tank drops down. If you are that concerned about it you have to cut the strap or lift the body. Unless its a high value car don't waste your time.
It turned out that the straps didn't have as much spring back as I expected. The tank has now been removed and I have recovered the build sheet mostly intact.
The upper left corner was torn and the paper was in decent shape but the lettering was faded and a little hard to discern. For those that are curious about size, the paper is 6 1/4" wide x 8 3/8" high. I was expecting normal paper but it turns out the back is some kind of carbon paper material. By scanning and reversing the image of the back, it was easier to read the lettering. An image of the front and the reversed back is shown below.
But now the information on the sheet has me a little perplexed. The sheet shows the date of production as May 23, 1972. This corresponds to the J23 on the trim tag. The sheet also notes Ontario Orange paint which matches the 987 paint code.
But...
The sheet describes the car as a convertible both in the upper left corner as well as having an auxiliary hardtop. My car is a coupe.
The sheet shows the car having power windows, rear window defroster (convertible only??), air injection reactor, and tilt-telescoping steering wheel. My car has none of these.
The sheet shows the car as having the 270hp 454 LS5. My car is a base 350.
My guess is that this build sheet is for some other car that was on the assembly line that day and it was put on the tank of my car by mistake. I'm not sure if the pencil-written letter code of "56" relates to the VIN or to some production order. Has anyone else come across a situation of the build sheet not matching the car? Any insights would be appreciated.
Since the date on the build sheet is the same as your trim tag, the most likely scenario is the build sheets were mistakenly swapped with the car in front or behind yours...
It would be interesting if you check the c3 registry and find those cars there...Long shot for sure...but you just gotta look!
Recovering Build Sheet
