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Rebuilt the PS Control Valve on my 75 Vert today. I used the Corvette Central kit and instructions. Mine was working but pouring oil.
Interesting little project.
I can’t say it was “hard”, but it was one of those things where you need to follow the instructions very closely.
I still need to finish the adjustment by pulling the hydraulic Ram from the frame mount. It seems fine still connected with no apparent bias, however, I want to do it right.
Thumbs up to Corvette Central’s instructions. They were very clear with good pictures.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
That looks very smart! Out of interest, did your kit include all the metal parts, (sliding collar etc) or just the ball pin and the rubber seals etc?
This a job I did a few years ago. I'd read a few "horror stories" about how hard it was, so I confess to putting it off for a while! But, once I got inti I also found that while following the instructions very carefully was necessary, it was more a process of being methodical and careful, rather than being hard.
The balancing part went easier than I had expect3d too - again, stories of the ram rod shooting out and puncturing a lung or something were exaggerated! 😄😄
Since you actually read instructions, here's some on balancing the control valve.:
Good instructions. Thanks. I ran of time yesterday. Will get that done this weekend.
I rebuild scuba regulators as part of my paying job. I need to read instructions very carefully since there are so many variations in design.
I see the last line mentions “grease the end and install the dust cap”
I have never seen a reference, or find a reason, to put grease under the dust cap. Therefore, I am assuming they are referring to the other end where the zerk fitting is at.
The hole where my zerk fitting went was partially stripped when I got the car and a small bolt was inserted. I loaded mine with grease and used a copper washer with a bolt to seal the hole.
Looks good on the outside. Any pictures as you were going along??
Every step of the way!!
I even mic’ed my adjustment nut to put it back in the exact depth.
My car sat for over three years with a dry valve when the previous owner’s mechanic passed away. When I took over, the valve was leaking badly when I added fluid. I saw no damage to any of the seals or Orings. They were a little harder than my new set, so I am hoping they only firmed up by sitting static and dry under pressure for so long. I cant see any scoring to the cylinders.
That looks very smart! Out of interest, did your kit include all the metal parts, (sliding collar etc) or just the ball pin and the rubber seals etc?
This a job I did a few years ago. I'd read a few "horror stories" about how hard it was, so I confess to putting it off for a while! But, once I got inti I also found that while following the instructions very carefully was necessary, it was more a process of being methodical and careful, rather than being hard.
The balancing part went easier than I had expect3d too - again, stories of the ram rod shooting out and puncturing a lung or something were exaggerated! 😄😄
Have fun!👍
“did your kit include all the metal parts, (sliding collar etc) or just the ball pin and the rubber seals etc?”
I used the Corvette Central kit, part number PSV-2 or 562337 with the following (see pic):
(Note there were two of the same oring in the pack. I only replaced one, so I think it is either a spare in case damage during install or just a duplication.)
Forgot to mention - I purchased the new dust cap separately. My kit did not include a new cap. However, I find I did not need a new one. I even re-used my old one.
Last edited by DWAVette; Dec 29, 2023 at 07:43 AM.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by DWAVette
“did your kit include all the metal parts, (sliding collar etc) or just the ball pin and the rubber seals etc?”
I used the Corvette Central kit, part number PSV-2 or 562337 with the following (see pic):
(Note there were two of the same oring in the pack. I only replaced one, so I think it is either a spare in case damage during install or just a duplication.)
Forgot to mention - I purchased the new dust cap separately. My kit did not include a new cap. However, I find I did not need a new one. I even re-used my old one.
Yes, that looks like the kit I used. At the time I bought it, CC offered a kit that included all the metal internal parts, but I decided against that. In the end, I sort of wished I'd bought it, but after some judicious cleaning the old parts seem OK. It's lasted for at least 5 years now I think - another myth exploded, as most comments were that "modern stuff" was sub-standard and would only last a month or two!
I did coat the adjuster nut with a bit of grease before I put the cap back on after setting the adjustment. It just keeps it "damp free" in there!
Thanks for putting up the pic's. I've got one laying on my bench, the original one that came on my car. I replaced it recently with one I got from a forum member. There is a noticeable difference in feel. So I'd like to go through the original. It never leaked, I was concerned about wear to the ball stud.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Hi again
Originally Posted by DWAVette
Good instructions. Thanks. I ran of time yesterday. Will get that done this weekend.
I rebuild scuba regulators as part of my paying job. I need to read instructions very carefully since there are so many variations in design.
I see the last line mentions “grease the end and install the dust cap”
I have never seen a reference, or find a reason, to put grease under the dust cap. Therefore, I am assuming they are referring to the other end where the zerk fitting is at.
The hole where my zerk fitting went was partially stripped when I got the car and a small bolt was inserted. I loaded mine with grease and used a copper washer with a bolt to seal the hole.
Why the need to grease inside the dust cap?
Maybe someone will tell us.
About the zerk fitting, if you pump grease in it can rupture an internal seal, so since you put grease in leave it alone with the blot still in it.
“Made in China?”
I am not sure. I have pretty much given up on being able to get anything like this made in the USA. I was doing a front wheel hub rebuild on a Chevy 4x4 a few years ago and wanted US made bearing/hub assembly. I researched Timken, Moog, etc, etc, etc and, at some point, I either was unable to find a definitive “This bearing was molded, machined, and assembled in the USA” by any of them. Some would say “Assembled in USA” or similar, but I wanted a bearing that was actually molded and milled in the USA.
Same for these parts kits. There may be some out there that are molded and milled in the USA, but I lack the time to dig enough to find them.
Anyway, soap box put away.
Balanced the system today. Glad I did. When it was only hooked to no-wheel front hubs, the Ram did not move. However, when I took it off the frame mount, it slowly pushed out.
After balancing, I let it run for a few minutes and varied the throttle of my engine until it did not move at all.
Now, let’s see how long I can go before it starts puking fluid again!
Next item on the never ending list - water pump rebuild.
4-Vettes, Earlier C-3 Corvette valves had a stiffer spring in them and so steering effort was noticeably harder. The newer Corvettes valves have a slightly weaker spring and less steering effort.
I think it changed around 1975, but I do not know for sure. Brand new valves have the weaker spring in them. Lou.
PS Control Valve
