strating issue
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 182
Likes: 2
strating issue
I have a 75 stingray. turn the key on and I will get interior lights, gauges radio.I turn the ignition key, I get nothing. no click nothing. Battery is brand new. I can get the car to start if i jump starter relay. after removing jumpers, it will start a couple of times and then nothing. Any idea on what it could be?
I also have another issue. I have mechanical headlight doors, all of a sudden again, i get nothing. other items that stop working is Cigarette lighter and light, heater contol light and wipers. was woking but one speed. New motor came on and then stopped. Put old motor on, still nothing. any ideas
Thanks
I also have another issue. I have mechanical headlight doors, all of a sudden again, i get nothing. other items that stop working is Cigarette lighter and light, heater contol light and wipers. was woking but one speed. New motor came on and then stopped. Put old motor on, still nothing. any ideas
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,252
Likes: 7,840
From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Ideas? Yes. You have a 50 year old car. Your wiring and all it's connectors are getting old.
Do you have a schematic for your car? If not they are available on here for free. Get one.
You have multiple issues. So I could type all morning here.
Take them on one at a time. Using a test light. And a helper. Get under car. Connect test light to good ground and tip on the small terminal on the solenoid. Helper turns key to start. Does test light light up?
No. Back up following the schematic. Is there a connection on the firewall like my 77? Is your clutch or neutral switch not connecting? (Yes it makes a difference which transmission you have). Etc. Etc. Keep going back towards switch until you find power when switch is turned to start. Or go the other way, start at the switch, low on the column. And see if you have power and head towards solenoid until you find the break.
Or perhaps with this many electrical issues you might wish to look into replacement wiring harnesses.
Do you have a schematic for your car? If not they are available on here for free. Get one.
You have multiple issues. So I could type all morning here.
Take them on one at a time. Using a test light. And a helper. Get under car. Connect test light to good ground and tip on the small terminal on the solenoid. Helper turns key to start. Does test light light up?
No. Back up following the schematic. Is there a connection on the firewall like my 77? Is your clutch or neutral switch not connecting? (Yes it makes a difference which transmission you have). Etc. Etc. Keep going back towards switch until you find power when switch is turned to start. Or go the other way, start at the switch, low on the column. And see if you have power and head towards solenoid until you find the break.
Or perhaps with this many electrical issues you might wish to look into replacement wiring harnesses.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 2,718
Likes: 2,163
From: Minnesota
Like 4-vettes said, the wiring in these cars is very old, and a thorough inspection of the grounds/wiring is necessary. One of the most neglected is the battery negative cable that connects to the frame near the underside of the battery tray. Disconnect your battery, disconnect the ground, wire wheel or sand the frame to expose good metal, then reattach the ground cable with some dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion.
One thing I’ve noticed is that the starter will often require a higher voltage to run than the interior lights or other electronics. Leaving your lights on for just a little bit can drain the battery to the point of not allowing the starter to run. Sometimes if that happens jiggling the negative battery cable around where it connects to the battery seems to help. Otherwise if your car is a manual you can always roll start it.
One thing I’ve noticed is that the starter will often require a higher voltage to run than the interior lights or other electronics. Leaving your lights on for just a little bit can drain the battery to the point of not allowing the starter to run. Sometimes if that happens jiggling the negative battery cable around where it connects to the battery seems to help. Otherwise if your car is a manual you can always roll start it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,743
Likes: 1,385
Before you go off doing all kinds of things. Clean the battery terminals and associated battery leads. If it still won't turn over go get that brand new battery load tested. I believe autozone still does battery load tests. THEN come back and tell us what is going on.
I have a 75 stingray. turn the key on and I will get interior lights, gauges radio.I turn the ignition key, I get nothing. no click nothing. Battery is brand new. I can get the car to start if i jump starter relay. after removing jumpers, it will start a couple of times and then nothing. Any idea on what it could be?
I also have another issue. I have mechanical headlight doors, all of a sudden again, i get nothing. other items that stop working is Cigarette lighter and light, heater contol light and wipers. was woking but one speed. New motor came on and then stopped. Put old motor on, still nothing. any ideas
Thanks
I also have another issue. I have mechanical headlight doors, all of a sudden again, i get nothing. other items that stop working is Cigarette lighter and light, heater contol light and wipers. was woking but one speed. New motor came on and then stopped. Put old motor on, still nothing. any ideas
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Could be starter solenoid. The starter will outlive the solenoid three to one. The solenoid has to engage the bendix, make all the proper voltage connections, spin the starter and do that right next to the extreme heat of the exhaust. There are contacts inside the solenoid that can either weld closed or fail to engage sometimes.
You can swap-out just the solenoid with a quick trip to NAPA. Ask for a ceramic (brown) unit. They last longer, handle heat better, cost a little more.
If you go this route, take a picture of all wire locations on the solenoid. Make a note of wire color and which post it goes to.
Battery unhooked of course.
You can swap-out just the solenoid with a quick trip to NAPA. Ask for a ceramic (brown) unit. They last longer, handle heat better, cost a little more.
If you go this route, take a picture of all wire locations on the solenoid. Make a note of wire color and which post it goes to.
Battery unhooked of course.
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