The passenger side window has always been difficult to roil up or down and never operated correctly. Since my 69 is a convert, I have in the past just drove around with the window down until "I get to it." My wife would
complain she was getting cold at times, so I aimed to fix it before spring. Removing the window is not difficult, and the CorvetteBen has an excellent video on this on a later C3, but sometimes a few pics can help as well
so I figured I would take it step by step. My door skin has been removed and since there are many videos and threads on this, I won't go there.

To begin, I found this excellent overall pic of a C3 side window. The objective is to remove the 3 nuts seen circled in red. In my case, it turns out that I only had to remove 2 since the connection to the forward horizontal track
was broken - the reason for my issues. I found this pic a good reference as it lays out what has to be done.



1. Remove the Outer and inner Window seals and Stainless garnish moulding. While this is not absolutely necessary, it makes getting the window out a lot easier. Also, this area is one where moisture trapped against the steel door
frame can cause corrosion and you'll want to address this before it gets bad. On my 69, I took out the screw on the rearward and forward ends where the door seal was screwed into the door. This allows you to access the 2 door seal and stainless
moulding screws which you will have to take out to remove the moulding.

Forward end of door seal

Back end of door seal

The moulding seal is actually 2 pieces the window seal piece has nubs that snap into the steel door - maybe 4-5 in addition to the 2 screws you took out. The window seal and stainless moulding can be easily removed with a flat edge screwdriver prying it out. In my
case I wasn't overly careful on these pieces as they had to be replaced anyway.





2. Remove the top vertical track stops. There is one on each of the vertical tracks that keep the window from popping out of the top (if possible). I rolled the window up to access both stops; the rear track stop was more difficult to access than the front one.


Forward track stop (on the forward vertical track) can be removed through the hole near the top of the door.



I will post more tommorow...

 

3. I marked the vertical track bolt locations as the forward and rearward vertical track attachment points can be moved a bit to ease window removal.


4. I then removed the forward and rearward anti-rattle bumpers.

The forward anti-rattle

The rearward anti-rattle.

5. Roll the window up - if you have some spring clamps you can clamp them on to support the window at the forward and rearward edges. You probably don't need this step but I did it to keep the window from sliding down anyway.
Now you can remove the 2 nuts that attach the lower edge of the window to the horizontal track.

I found the rearward nut slightly more difficult to access than the forward one. If you drop the nut while removing it, you can easily fish it out of the window bottom.

The forward nut becomes visible near the top of the window through this hole. You might have to adjust window height a bit to line it up. Both nuts are 7/16".
6. If you've got the side window clamped on both ends, you can now separate the window from the horizontal track. I started at the rear as this was easier to access. Using a long screwdriver, gently pry the window away from the
horizontal track attachment point.


7. In my case the nut attaching the glass to the forward horizontal track roller had long ago broken (hence my issue) so I did not have to remove it. On most other situations, that will have to be removed to get the window out.


8. If you have separated the window from the rearward horizontal track attachment point, you can lift it out from the rear.

You can clearly see the nut stud that you have to separate from the rearward horizontal track. Lift the rear of the window, and if need be you can move the forward vertical track attachment towards the inside of the door to make more room at the front to remove the
front half of the window. I had to gently pry the window away from the horizontal track attachment here to finally get the window free,

9. The window out of the car - the red circle is part of my issues - it had come off the roller and had no attachment to the forward vertical track at all.

10. Probably a good time to check the steel door for corrosion as it easy to access now. In my case the only corrosion was at the top edge where the moulding met the door edge. Luckily, the bottom of the door was in good condition.

 

Looks like most of my issue was old (50+ years) dried grease and dirt on the vertical tracks. I suspect most cars this age have the same issue. Probably a good idea to rehab the door window mechanisms any time you replace the door skins or have the door skins
off the car. Also a good idea to replace the window seals at this time as well.