When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just starting to put the dash in and can’t seem to locate the Alt “dummy” light to connect the bulb.
I understand the Alt will not work until that circuit is complete. What is the name for it in the AIM or other resources? Where is the physical light in the dash?
There should be a light that comes on with the ACC key position, yes?
I found that the White wire has power when in the keyed (run) position, but not in the off position) and the Brown (now red, due to a splice) doesn't have any power in the "key on" position. I didn't check during starting. Could they be backwards?
The car has the original steering column and main wiring harness, so I don't think there are many gremlins, but it's possible, which is why I need to trouble shoot.
There's no change in Amps at the battery or the Alt when the car is started and running. Seems to be running purely off the Batt.
Would it be possible to check the Alt by supplying it with 12v to the "exciter wire" tab and see if it's working as it should?
I hear some clicking (like a solenoid) in the engine bay area, when I move the key back and forth in the "off" position. Seems like something is loose or not where it's supposed to be. I plan to pull the steering and check all the connections (as much as I can). The car starts right up and run fine, just no Alt power.
Originally Posted by Mooser
Brown wire has power when the key is in the run position
Then other has power all the time
How are you telling that it's not charging? Ammeter reading negative?
M
Kind of sounds like the internal regulator is faulty.
The clicking sound could be the carb-solenoid or even part of the CEC system if it's still intact.
Check around you for a starter/alternator shop and take the alternator to them and have it tested, it's a few minute test and half the time they don't even charge for it (pun intended)
M
Kind of sounds like the internal regulator is faulty.
The clicking sound could be the carb-solenoid or even part of the CEC system if it's still intact.
Check around you for a starter/alternator shop and take the alternator to them and have it tested, it's a few minute test and half the time they don't even charge for it (pun intended)
M
I'm sorry, but I just had to thank you for this, made me laugh....needed that right now....
I need to check the wiring and see what’s running to what. I did see a relay (modern type) added near the fuse panel, which I initially thought was for the high beam power, but I need to confirm. Too bad Bubba isn’t here to tell me what he did!
Carb solenoid has been deleted and I’m not using the Transmission Controlled Spark system.
I’ll track down the power to Alt issue. It’s newly rebuilt, so my guess is it’s an issue with the exciter wire power.
Originally Posted by Mooser
Kind of sounds like the internal regulator is faulty.
The clicking sound could be the carb-solenoid or even part of the CEC system if it's still intact.
Check around you for a starter/alternator shop and take the alternator to them and have it tested, it's a few minute test and half the time they don't even charge for it (pun intended)
M
Then the click is probably from that added relay.
I'm pretty sure the white is powered all the time but it might be switched. I'll check mine when I get home
M
Brown becomes white “Exciter” wire Black with white stripe becomes Red power wire.
Looks like the Black with White stripe wire runs through the Voltage regulator (and a sketchy looking orange wire).
does this newer Alt even need to use the Voltage reg? I think it’s internally regulated, yes?
Seems like the FIX is to run the Red wire off the clip to the Power side of the Alt. and disconnect the Black/White stripe wire at the Voltage reg.
This would leave the white exciter wire as a single-wire from the Ign. - and provide 12volt power from the red wire that comes from the Starter solenoid.
Originally Posted by Mooser
Then the click is probably from that added relay.
I'm pretty sure the white is powered all the time but it might be switched. I'll check mine when I get home
M
Can't tell from that last picture but I think that's the horn relay.
Here in this picture, the horn relay is on the left, external regulator on the right.. (large box) I think only 68 still had the external regulators but I could be wrong.
They just used the horn relay as a common spot to connect most of the positive wiring to... nothing to do with the actual horn
M
So, it seems like the red wire is just not getting power, which is an easy fix.
would you run it from the horn relay or just down to the Batt post on the Alt? (Seems more direct).
Originally Posted by Mooser
Can't tell from that last picture but I think that's the horn relay.
Here in this picture, the horn relay is on the left, external regulator on the right.. (large box) I think only 68 still had the external regulators but I could be wrong.
They just used the horn relay as a common spot to connect most of the positive wiring to... nothing to do with the actual horn
M
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
“Dummy” question - Light?
