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“Dummy” question - Light?

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Old Mar 23, 2024 | 11:50 PM
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Default “Dummy” question - Light?

1971 Base, No AC, Manual, Small Block

Just starting to put the dash in and can’t seem to locate the Alt “dummy” light to connect the bulb.

I understand the Alt will not work until that circuit is complete. What is the name for it in the AIM or other resources? Where is the physical light in the dash?

There should be a light that comes on with the ACC key position, yes?

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Old Mar 24, 2024 | 04:48 AM
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No alt light warning light back then, amp gage for watching the charging system
M
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Old Mar 24, 2024 | 01:47 PM
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Thanks

The Alt doesn’t seem to be charging (or “activating”) so the question is: how do the small wires in the top of the Alternator get activated?

What else needs to be connected, in terms of wiring, in order to activate the Alternator?



Originally Posted by Mooser
No alt light warning light back then, amp gage for watching the charging system
M
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Old Mar 24, 2024 | 07:34 PM
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The brown wire on the alt is the "exciter" and it's wired to the ignition switch. The other wire (white?) is hot all the time

Basically those alts charge all the time based on the voltage regulator (internal)
M
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Old Mar 24, 2024 | 08:16 PM
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Thanks for the info.
What is the test for the brown wire from the Ign switch? Check Volts at the Alt connection when in ACC switched on?

The alt is not generating a charge, so I believe there’s an issue with the Exciter power.


Originally Posted by Mooser
The brown wire on the alt is the "exciter" and it's wired to the ignition switch. The other wire (white?) is hot all the time

Basically those alts charge all the time based on the voltage regulator (internal)
M
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Old Mar 24, 2024 | 08:49 PM
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Brown wire has power when the key is in the run position

Then other has power all the time

How are you telling that it's not charging? Ammeter reading negative?
M
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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 12:22 AM
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I found that the White wire has power when in the keyed (run) position, but not in the off position) and the Brown (now red, due to a splice) doesn't have any power in the "key on" position. I didn't check during starting. Could they be backwards?

The car has the original steering column and main wiring harness, so I don't think there are many gremlins, but it's possible, which is why I need to trouble shoot.

There's no change in Amps at the battery or the Alt when the car is started and running. Seems to be running purely off the Batt.
Would it be possible to check the Alt by supplying it with 12v to the "exciter wire" tab and see if it's working as it should?

I hear some clicking (like a solenoid) in the engine bay area, when I move the key back and forth in the "off" position. Seems like something is loose or not where it's supposed to be. I plan to pull the steering and check all the connections (as much as I can). The car starts right up and run fine, just no Alt power.

Originally Posted by Mooser
Brown wire has power when the key is in the run position

Then other has power all the time

How are you telling that it's not charging? Ammeter reading negative?
M
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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 07:35 AM
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Kind of sounds like the internal regulator is faulty.
The clicking sound could be the carb-solenoid or even part of the CEC system if it's still intact.

Check around you for a starter/alternator shop and take the alternator to them and have it tested, it's a few minute test and half the time they don't even charge for it (pun intended)
M
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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Mooser
Kind of sounds like the internal regulator is faulty.
The clicking sound could be the carb-solenoid or even part of the CEC system if it's still intact.

Check around you for a starter/alternator shop and take the alternator to them and have it tested, it's a few minute test and half the time they don't even charge for it (pun intended)
M
I'm sorry, but I just had to thank you for this, made me laugh....needed that right now....
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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 01:54 PM
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My car is like me in my marriage..not in charge!

I need to check the wiring and see what’s running to what. I did see a relay (modern type) added near the fuse panel, which I initially thought was for the high beam power, but I need to confirm. Too bad Bubba isn’t here to tell me what he did!

Carb solenoid has been deleted and I’m not using the Transmission Controlled Spark system.

I’ll track down the power to Alt issue. It’s newly rebuilt, so my guess is it’s an issue with the exciter wire power.

Originally Posted by Mooser
Kind of sounds like the internal regulator is faulty.
The clicking sound could be the carb-solenoid or even part of the CEC system if it's still intact.

Check around you for a starter/alternator shop and take the alternator to them and have it tested, it's a few minute test and half the time they don't even charge for it (pun intended)
M

Last edited by K-Dog; Mar 25, 2024 at 02:01 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 03:52 PM
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Then the click is probably from that added relay.
I'm pretty sure the white is powered all the time but it might be switched. I'll check mine when I get home
M
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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 05:11 PM
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OK - More info here:


Brown becomes white “Exciter” wire Black with white stripe becomes Red power wire.

Looks like the Black with White stripe wire runs through the Voltage regulator (and a sketchy looking orange wire).

does this newer Alt even need to use the Voltage reg? I think it’s internally regulated, yes?

Seems like the FIX is to run the Red wire off the clip to the Power side of the Alt. and disconnect the Black/White stripe wire at the Voltage reg.

This would leave the white exciter wire as a single-wire from the Ign. - and provide 12volt power from the red wire that comes from the Starter solenoid.



Originally Posted by Mooser
Then the click is probably from that added relay.
I'm pretty sure the white is powered all the time but it might be switched. I'll check mine when I get home
M
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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 05:19 PM
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Can't tell from that last picture but I think that's the horn relay.

Here in this picture, the horn relay is on the left, external regulator on the right.. (large box) I think only 68 still had the external regulators but I could be wrong.



They just used the horn relay as a common spot to connect most of the positive wiring to... nothing to do with the actual horn
M
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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 05:36 PM
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That’s right - Horn relay.

So, it seems like the red wire is just not getting power, which is an easy fix.

would you run it from the horn relay or just down to the Batt post on the Alt? (Seems more direct).


Originally Posted by Mooser
Can't tell from that last picture but I think that's the horn relay.

Here in this picture, the horn relay is on the left, external regulator on the right.. (large box) I think only 68 still had the external regulators but I could be wrong.



They just used the horn relay as a common spot to connect most of the positive wiring to... nothing to do with the actual horn
M
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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 06:44 PM
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The main red wire going to the horn relay isn't getting power? I wonder if the fusible link is toast between the main



M
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Old Mar 25, 2024 | 11:43 PM
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Fixed!

The small orange wire that was connected to the horn relay and the black/white stripe wire was bad.

I went with connecting the 12v clip power to the Batt terminal on the Alt.

Works great now




Originally Posted by Mooser
The main red wire going to the horn relay isn't getting power? I wonder if the fusible link is toast between the main



M
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