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Modifications were made to center as well as speed/tach. Instead of this getting lost in my “restoration journey begins” thread, posting here for more help/feedback.
I understand nothing that has been done here (other than what @Richard454 has graciously helped me with.
I need someone to help walk me through this, understanding I know ZERO about electrical/ or what I’m looking at.
How do I pick up where this was left off and move forward get everything plugged in/installed and working?
Thank you!
😬
Only one bulb installed. Clearly been redone. Everything is so clean. In the upper left corner I see a bulb but the rear looks different t than the other bulbs with the metal/plastic retainers (see picture below of the back side) Looks like he grounded to prevent grounding issues but what else needs to be done to connect to wiring harness (besides add other bulbs) Are these the bulb retainers that some epoxy in to keep bulbs from falling out!?
Seems that 3 of the metal bulb retainers are secured in (perhaps epoxied in) don’t do this with the remaining open bulb holes to prevent the dreaded bulb dropping into the abyss?
No bulb retainers here Only 3 on this side? Don’t all the holes need these?
The bulb retainers that were originally molded into the bulb sockets and the little tangs are sprung enough to hold tight into the gauge openings. They are also the ground for the lights so if any are glued in, make sure they are electrically connected to the gauge housings AND when the bulbs / sockets are put into those, the retainers need to contact the outside barrel of the actual lights so they get that ground.
M
Modifications were made to center as well as speed/tach. Instead of this getting lost in my “restoration journey begins” thread, posting here for more help/feedback.
I understand nothing that has been done here (other than what @Richard454 has graciously helped me with.
I need someone to help walk me through this, understanding I know ZERO about electrical/ or what I’m looking at.
How do I pick up where this was left off and move forward get everything plugged in/installed and working?
Thank you!
😬
Only one bulb installed.
In the upper left corner I see a bulb but the rear looks different t than the other bulbs with the metal/plastic retainers (see picture below of the back side)
The seatbelt warning lamp was different and sat above that button to turn it off. It just came on as a warning, not wired to the system. Than one lamp looks right to me
M
I think the seat belt light has a special bulb which is shown in your pic.
and yes you need to bend the small tangs that hold the metal nrackets in the holes...bend each tang a little so that it actuallsnaps into the hole and stays in place.
As for the empty hole...the more bulbs the better...before installing the clusters view them at night with the dash lights ON;
You will be able to tell better if the gauges are being lit correctly by the bulbs'
The fuel gauge needs another bulb on the left////
Red lighting...it's an aviation thing for night driving
Crimp fittings removed/wires are soldered and shrink-wrapped for neatness.....
Single ground to all gauges and 12" long quik-disconnect wired in per members advice (resto-mod)
I agree with others on thread, replacing all your bulbs now with original OEM bulbs, since you have access to them. Just so you know, the illumination film lenses, bulbs are #192 and the gauge bulbs are #194. I also would suggest painting the bezel - while you have the center gauge out. Easy to dissemble bezel from center cluster and resemble. It will also give you a chance to clean the lenses from the inside too. If you like refer to my posting below on the Forum - I have the matching OEM spray paint you can buy to paint your bezel. You can look up my thread below by doing a search on forum.
I think the seat belt light has a special bulb which is shown in your pic.
and yes you need to bend the small tangs that hold the metal nrackets in the holes...bend each tang a little so that it actuallsnaps into the hole and stays in place.
As for the empty hole...the more bulbs the better...before installing the clusters view them at night with the dash lights ON;
You will be able to tell better if the gauges are being lit correctly by the bulbs'
The fuel gauge needs another bulb on the left////
Red lighting...it's an aviation thing for night driving
Crimp fittings removed/wires are soldered and shrink-wrapped for neatness.....
Single ground to all gauges and 12" long quik-disconnect wired in per members advice (resto-mod)
Love the idea of the quick disconnect, do I source those parts at local automotive store?
Also noted that my clock was removed and replaced with temp gauge. No idea what will plug into
that now?!!
I agree with others on thread, replacing all your bulbs now with original OEM bulbs, since you have access to them. Just so you know, the illumination film lenses, bulbs are #192 and the gauge bulbs are #194. I also would suggest painting the bezel - while you have the center gauge out. Easy to dissemble bezel from center cluster and resemble. It will also give you a chance to clean the lenses from the inside too. If you like refer to my posting below on the Forum - I have the matching OEM spray paint you can buy to paint your bezel. You can look up my thread below by doing a search on forum.
1978 Center Cluster Gauge Restoration - Painted
Yours look great. I do think that mine have already been painted.
Love the idea of the quick disconnect, do I source those parts at local automotive store?
Also noted that my clock was removed and replaced with temp gauge. No idea what will plug into
that now?!!
I bought the quik disconnects off the internet/don't buy the cheapies. You may be able to get them at a local electronics supplier (Grainger/Etc.)
I had a spare butchered wiring harness which I cut 12" sections from to keep the wiring extensions the same color as the OEM harness wires (per other members).
Some people prefer to use the clock hole for other things like vacuum gauges/ AFR gauges/etc. What Dub had in mind only he knows.
I gutted my non-working clock and grafted a HobbyLobby (coin battery) clock mechanism to the face and hands of the OEM broken clock.
(My car is a restomod basket case so I have a lot of leeway in adapting things to look original/I would rather use funds on leather seats/etc than "clock innards".
I bought the quik disconnects off the internet/don't buy the cheapies. You may be able to get them at a local electronics supplier (Grainger/Etc.)
I had a spare butchered wiring harness which I cut 12" sections from to keep the wiring extensions the same color as the OEM harness wires (per other members).
Some people prefer to use the clock hole for other things like vacuum gauges/ AFR gauges/etc. What Dub had in mind only he knows.
I gutted my non-working clock and grafted a HobbyLobby (coin battery) clock mechanism to the face and hands of the OEM broken clock.
(My car is a restomod basket case so I have a lot of leeway in adapting things to look original/I would rather use funds on leather seats/etc than "clock innards".
Couldn’t agree more with your last statement. I always wear a watch. Bad part is my clock went missing too.
I ended up replacing all of the original sockets after having several of the metal retainers come apart from the plastic base. I tried gluing them back together, but it didn't work very well. When they come apart the bulb usually falls into the inside of the gauge causing you to remove the gauge to get the rattling bulb out. I replaced all of them for the tach and speedo and then did the same for the center console. I made the length of the wires longer than the original to give me a little slack to be able to get my hands behind the panel and get the bulbs plugged in. Hint, before you get everything buttoned up get into the car and turn the dash lights on to make sure that all of them are plugged in and working correctly. It is a real pain to get it all together and then find out one bulb isn't working.
I ended up replacing all of the original sockets after having several of the metal retainers come apart from the plastic base. I tried gluing them back together, but it didn't work very well. When they come apart the bulb usually falls into the inside of the gauge causing you to remove the gauge to get the rattling bulb out. I replaced all of them for the tach and speedo and then did the same for the center console. I made the length of the wires longer than the original to give me a little slack to be able to get my hands behind the panel and get the bulbs plugged in. Hint, before you get everything buttoned up get into the car and turn the dash lights on to make sure that all of them are plugged in and working correctly. It is a real pain to get it all together and then find out one bulb isn't working.
Keeping in mind you need to talk to me like a toddler about these things, I’ve heard the specific change people do form the 1895 bulb sockets to the GROUNDED 194 bulb holders?
1) Where do I source these?
2) I love the idea of adding length as @doorgunner has done and adding the plug.
3) Is the above also recommended on the center console or just the driver tach/speedo?
In bending the metal retainer tabs and applying the epoxy and gluing in, would someone show me exactly what tabs are bent and where the epoxy is applied that won’t affect continuity?
4) with no steering column and the ignition hanging. How do we test everything? Does the car need to be started? I know this is an epic level stupid question but our first time doing this. 😕
I changed all of my single wire sockets to new replacements of the same thing. The original sockets lasted over 50 years and I doubt that I will be around when they need to be replaced again. I got mine from Zip, but most of the suppliers carry the same thing. I added about 6 extra inches of wire so that I could get my big hands behind the panel. I did the tach and speedo along with the center console. A little too long is not a problem, a little too short is a major problem. I bought my replacement bults from my local Chevy dealer. They were still carrying the bulbs. Local parts suppliers have bulbs made in China and they do not fit in the sockets well and can easily fall out. The bulbs that I ordered from Chevy were part number 9417863 and they fit perfectly.
You questions are not stupid. We all had to start somewhere and some of us have been doing this for a long time. Better to ask before you screw something up than afterwards. Stupid questions are ones like: What color car should I buy?
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Originally Posted by c1nicole
Below the single light bulb is an electro magnetic switch. When that fails there is a better version that replaces everything in that corner. The button itself is part of the center console trim.
The single white tube above nests into the 2 small circular holes and the red seat belt lense sits on top
Where your red star is there is a single pole, that is a positive post for power from the ignition switch. it energizes the electromagnetic switch and the light bulb. When you push in the seat belt button the magnet holds the switch open so the light stays out. When you turn off the car the magnet de-energizes resetting the switch to on
c1nicole
I *really* think you would be happier converting to individual plastic sockets & using LED lamps, OR to LED strip lighting (LED strip lighting being my preference).
You're going to be annoyed when those POS metal sockets start falling out, falling apart, or falling into the instruments......
‼️⚠️Center gauge cluster HELP‼️⚠️
