Cam decision
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 416
Likes: 76
From: Atlantic Beach, FL
Cam decision
The PO of my car replaced the original LT-1 cam with a 327/350 Hydraulic cam. While I'm doing the cylinder heads, I'm planning on replacing the cam.
Since my car is a complete numbers matching LT-1, I've been planning on going back to a solid lifter cam. Several people have recommended the Howards 117222-16 cam which is listed on their site as Lift: .460 / .488, Duration @ .050: 241 / 253, Centerline: 112, American Muscle, Near duplicate of the Chev Z28/LT1 370HP/350 cam (GM #3972178).
The machine shop doing my heads, says I should really go with a hydraulic roller cam as they have seen so many issues with flat tappet cams. He also says the modern profile will give me much better performance all around.
Howards says with the direct lube lifters and correct spring pressure, i shouldn't be concerned about the "flat tappet" issues that the machine shop is talking about.
Part of me wants the "experience" of an authentic LT-1 and part of me wants the ease of a hydraulic roller cam.....
What say you?
Since my car is a complete numbers matching LT-1, I've been planning on going back to a solid lifter cam. Several people have recommended the Howards 117222-16 cam which is listed on their site as Lift: .460 / .488, Duration @ .050: 241 / 253, Centerline: 112, American Muscle, Near duplicate of the Chev Z28/LT1 370HP/350 cam (GM #3972178).
The machine shop doing my heads, says I should really go with a hydraulic roller cam as they have seen so many issues with flat tappet cams. He also says the modern profile will give me much better performance all around.
Howards says with the direct lube lifters and correct spring pressure, i shouldn't be concerned about the "flat tappet" issues that the machine shop is talking about.
Part of me wants the "experience" of an authentic LT-1 and part of me wants the ease of a hydraulic roller cam.....
What say you?
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,107
Likes: 4,465
From: Marlton NJ
It is "a numbers matching LT-1"
That clinches it. Keep the solids.
The solids sewing machine rattle and the piston rattle is part of the experience.
And gaining 10 or 15HP is over-rated on a street car. Go down that rabbit hole and next thing you know you'll have a 496 in it.
The single best thing you can do though, is to put "short" poly-locs on the rocker arms. Crower makes them.
The stock nuts come loose easily and need valve lash adjustments often. That is a PITA.
My LT-1 with poly loks never changed lash for many years at a a pop. Like ~5k miles.
And I raced that car in autocross and rev'd it hard and often. That is what it likes.
That clinches it. Keep the solids.
The solids sewing machine rattle and the piston rattle is part of the experience.
And gaining 10 or 15HP is over-rated on a street car. Go down that rabbit hole and next thing you know you'll have a 496 in it.
The single best thing you can do though, is to put "short" poly-locs on the rocker arms. Crower makes them.
The stock nuts come loose easily and need valve lash adjustments often. That is a PITA.
My LT-1 with poly loks never changed lash for many years at a a pop. Like ~5k miles.
And I raced that car in autocross and rev'd it hard and often. That is what it likes.
