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As a fairly new newbie, I applaud Leigh and 4-vettes for the info in this thread. I'm preparing to install a rebuilt 350 in my bare refurbished chassis using a new Dewitts radiator & fan combo. Dewitts said to use coolant only with distilled water and connect the provided ground wire to the chassis so I'll do that. They say the ground is for the fan to work with their temperature sensor, but if it also helps with the electrolysis problem, that's an added plus. If'll add a zinc sacrifice to the system and then I should have all bases covered as Leigh previously discussed.
Yeah apparently Dewitts does not think it is a problem running electricity thru the radiator. So that debunks the "do not dare ground it" myth!
An all aluminum system, engine to radiator, would certainly put a stop to the whole galvanic corrosion issue!
All us C3 owners need to do then is have someone make an aluminum heater core for us! Or just go heater delete.
Right after we install that aluminum block ZL1 !
LMAO
(or LS as Bikespace would say)
Hey Bikespace, what 'cha gonna do about the copper heater core in your LS?
Yeah apparently Dewitts does not think it is a problem running electricity thru the radiator. So that debunks the "do not dare ground it" myth!
An all aluminum system, engine to radiator, would certainly put a stop to the whole galvanic corrosion issue!
All us C3 owners need to do then is have someone make an aluminum heater core for us! Or just go heater delete.
Right after we install that aluminum block ZL1 !
LMAO
(or LS as Bikespace would say)
I wouldn't kick a ZL1 out of my garage, or bother to LS-swap it, at least not immediately.
Already a step ahead of you on heater delete. Heated seats will extend the driving season to the edge of salt season.
Yeah apparently Dewitts does not think it is a problem running electricity thru the radiator. So that debunks the "do not dare ground it" myth!
An all aluminum system, engine to radiator, would certainly put a stop to the whole galvanic corrosion issue!
All us C3 owners need to do then is have someone make an aluminum heater core for us! Or just go heater delete.
Right after we install that aluminum block ZL1 !
LMAO
(or LS as Bikespace would say)
Hey Bikespace, what 'cha gonna do about the copper heater core in your LS?
If the alternator is big enuf, just add an inverter and plug in a heat lamp!
OK
It is time to fess up and hang my head in shame.
This admission is for the good of the group:
This is the copper radiator & coolant in my 31 year old S-10 pickup.
Looks nasty, jelly like.
Yeah it just gets used and abused.
I do not think this A-F has been touched in ~ 10 years.
My meter says there is .32V between the coolant and the block.
No issues (yet) but I am thinking I should probably change it? Maybe?
Last edited by leigh1322; Jun 5, 2024 at 09:07 PM.
I'm thinking a good flush and refill wouldn't be a bad idea. But also shows it does take awhile for coolant to break down enough to get up to .3 of a volt.
Now if your piggy bank can cover the cost of new coolant?
Well there is no aluminum in that old system. Just Cu & Iron so the galvanic potential is pretty low anyway. And the iron block is the sacrificial anode, and it's pretty thick.
If there were aluminum in there the galvanic potential would be double, and it would be aimed at the aluminum as a sacrificial anode. That would probably have issues by now.
There is a reason the old copper rads seemed tough, it takes a long time for a thick iron block to have a problem! LOL
The aluminum systems are just more "touchy".
I was "guilted" into flushing the rad in my old S-10 and adding new coolant.
I did not want to introduce any strong cleaners so I just flushed it with tap water until it ran clear. Lot of brown flakes came out!
I did not bother draining the block so probably had a gallon of low TDS NJ tap water left in the system. Added concentrate, some distilled and done.
Much yellow-greener looking now!
Retested with my multi-meter also.
Initial "before" reading was .32 Volts.
Current "after" reading is .06 Volts.
Much improved!
And as noted I only had 1 gallon of distilled and 1 gallon of tap, so the multi-meter reading could have gone even lower!
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Leigh and 4-vettes for the info in this thread. I'm preparing to install a rebuilt 350 in my bare refurbished chassis using a new Dewitts radiator & fan combo. Dewitts said to use coolant only with distilled water and connect the provided ground wire to the chassis so I'll do that. They say the ground is for the fan to work with their temperature sensor, but if it also helps with the electrolysis problem, that's an added plus. If'll add a zinc sacrifice to the system and then I should have all bases covered as Leigh previously discussed.
