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Just got a 1971 vet, restored beautifully, all systems go, running great , a real "Cream puff"
on the ride home aprox 1.5 hrs on highway aprox 60-70 mph
turned off air-conditioning and checked out other settings such as vent,
then came the problem
I turned the air-conditioning back on while traveling aprox 60 mph
I vaguely remember my father telling me years ago don't turn on the air when your going fast
this was aprox 50 yrs ago,,,
well the compressor prob does not have a "clutch' and the pully jammed and blew the hoses, actually broke the aluminum hose connectors
pulled on the side of the road and had my first tow ride ,,,,,, and so it begins,,,,,
will need new compressor ,hoses, water pump seal , as the jolt loosened the compressor bracket nut,,,
never turn on your air condtioning while traveling above 10-20n mph
should have listed to my "old Man"
Mike
Last edited by Grottolord; Jul 15, 2024 at 10:40 AM.
Yea, and don't they cycle on and off constantly, even at speed?
I don't think that turning the ac on at freeway speed was the main problem. I think the compressor was ready to go, lines old, etc.
Yea, and don't they cycle on and off constantly, even at speed?
I don't think that turning the ac on at freeway speed was the main problem. I think the compressor was ready to go, lines old, etc.
compressor could have been ready to go but lines were fairly new ,the compressor seized ,jerked and broke the metal lines off the compressor
after repair you can be assured i will not turn on air while traveling at high speed
m
Welcome to the forum! Congrats to getting what sounds like a great car!
NO....I'm afraid this is an example where your dad, as wise as he was, was buying into an old wife's tale that a lot of people believe (you need to do certain things to preserve the AC system). There is a clutch and the compressor cycles normally on/off (how else would it be able to maintain pressure?!). They're made to last a long time. My guess is the bearing just got dry ....or if it was the clutch...the clutch material became dry and broke off...and ..well, all heck broke loose. Regardless, it was most likely age-related. Or it's new and just a bad bearing. It happens.
Did you assess weather the compressor was seized up or just the pulley bearing? You might have to remove the bearing in order to test the compressor. I guess it would be a good idea to know what compressor your car has, if it has been converted over to 134, or if it's still R12? And, if it WAS converted over to 134...was it cone correctly? It would be a good idea to know those things in order to figure out a good way to proceed. Especially before taking it to a shop.
Remove the front bolt and the compressor clutch assembly. (You might need a compressor hold down tool). If the compressor shaft rotates nicely, then it's probably just the clutch assembly. If the shaft is seized, then you're probably looking for a new compressor. Then you ought to figure out if it has been converted over to 134a or not? And if so...was it done 'right'? Might have been a contributing factor to is crapping out. Maybe not enough oil is getting back to the compressor?
Take a picture and show us what you have ...and the condenser too. You might want to get a replacement NON-AC car belt so you can drive it for now, and maybe take it to a 'reputable' AC shop and get an assessment. I don't know that I would have them do any work until you know what you have. If you really want AC you probably ought to consider doing it 'right'...if the previous owner 'quickied' it. Not saying they did, but someone who knows AC and vintage AC should probably put their eyes on it ...and get a free quote while you're at it. There are a lot of good conversion kits for Vettes you could consider. A modern AC shop might not be aware of them...and they might not be the best place to do such a conversion.
But if the compressor is good and you just need a clutch...then that'll make it easier. You can change that and leave the compressor in place.
I'm no kid and I have never heard of not turning on the air while at speed.
Can't even take a guess at how many times I've done just that in all types of cars.
Including my C3.
I'm thinking it was a failed compressor and nothing more.
Bad Compressor and bad AC clutch are two different things.
Bad AC Compressor: Discharge AC. Purchase & install new/rebuilt compressor. Install new R12 (IF they will even do it)....or 134 ..if it's been converted. Vac system out. Balance system. Cost: $1,400-ish
Bad AC Clutch: Buy AC clutch on Amazon. Remove old AC clutch (by owner) ....install new AC clutch (by owner). Install new belt. Cost: $160 (maybe another $40 for tools if needed)
Nahh, he's already emptied the system, ripped the hoses off! Just bought the car. No history.
I would just upgrade to a Sanden and new brackets and of course new lines.
But, there's always more than one way to skin a cat!
Well....it looks like in your original pictures, the AC line behind the compressor (next to the broken one) is/was heavily kinked. Probably due to 'rough handling' during motor work. Therefore perhaps the broken line was 'stressed' too, which caused it to break. Or, the engine was/is shaking which caused the hose to vibrate at the break-point (crystalized the metal). Hard to say. Check the engine's motor-mounts and make sure the engine is not rising up upon acceleration.
Was the original 134a conversion (if it was converted) done 'right'? With a 134a condenser? Now would be the time to do it if it wasn't.
maden ride gone bad
