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I need some guidance on what wires would be my 12 Volt constant source on my 76'. I have the console and cluster out to put in a RetroSound radio and after pulling the old stereo (it did not work) it is hard to identify the power wires. I tested two wires, black and a gray and they have juice.
The retro radio says to connect its Yellow to the Constant +12 and its Red to the Ignition/Acc connect to the +12v. Unfortunately, I do not have a yellow line or red line that seem to pair up. There is one yellow line that was connected to the old system but it does not have juice when I test it.
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Last edited by CHASHR; Jul 13, 2024 at 05:50 PM.
Reason: added year
Look at your fuse panel. You'll see a terminal marked Bat. You can plug in a normal spade terminal into that. It is constant battery power. As per the switched power, also on your fuse panel you will see a terminal marked Accy. This is switched power, hot with key on and in accessory position. Ground to a good ground and your out of there!
Thanks, and I will give this a go. Help me with a ground source if I cap-off the original 3 wires per the below picture? Or, do I have it wrong that the hot black line I tested was NOT a ground? Web Pic of the 3 OEM Wires I have.
I'd go to the battery for nice clean constant power and ground- otherwise you will probably have noise issues.
I'd run a minimum 14GA and fuse ( 15A )
Then just connect the switched ignition wire ( usually red wire from the radio) to the yellow wire in the factory plug -
it doesn't pull any power- it's just triggers off/on with the ignition wire-and it's not a source of noise.
Ground wires should never be hot! So, I would question that black wire. Generally yes, black wires should be Ground wires. So I don't know what's going on there! Go to the metal framework around/ under the steering column for a easy, quick ground .
If your one of those super picky stereo guys, then listen to Richard and pull power and ground straight from the battery.
Personally, I just tapped off the original factory radio wiring for my cheap aftermarket Sony. And with my hearing, (not so great) it's just fine.
Thanks for all of the help and I have the new radio and speakers connected. The driver side dash is back together and 80% installed. Gauge cluster and passenger side are not back in because I want to test all the lights first. .
Can someone explain how the power goes to the tach, speedo, and gauge cluster? I reconnected the battery and turned the key to ACC and this is what I have power to or that turns on:
-the HVAC bulb
-headlights come on but I can't rotate the **** to adjust the tach/speedo lights
-emergency flashers
-the new radio
-courtesy lights
Does the car need to be running for the tach, speedo, and cluster lights to come on?
Thanks for all of the help and I have the new radio and speakers connected. The driver side dash is back together and 80% installed. Gauge cluster and passenger side are not back in because I want to test all the lights first. .
Can someone explain how the power goes to the tach, speedo, and gauge cluster? I reconnected the battery and turned the key to ACC and this is what I have power to or that turns on:
-the HVAC bulb
-headlights come on but I can't rotate the **** to adjust the tach/speedo lights
-emergency flashers
-the new radio
-courtesy lights
Does the car need to be running for the tach, speedo, and cluster lights to come on?
it doesn't have to be running. Just turn the key to the run position. Some things have power in acc. But not everything. Turn the key to run but stop short of turning to start. With the ign. switch in the run position everything should be working. Headlights work even without the key in switch, completely separate. Ever leave your lights on and flatten your battery?
Now, with ign. in the run position. Let us know what works and doesn't.