Ok, so my buddy bought a 76 vette, I have a 73, but this doesn't look right. Can anyone tell me what's wrong here?

It spins fine, no wobble, but the rotor is shifted off to the side. I'm going to change the rotors and pads for him, but I've never seen anything like this before.

 

IF that is a wheel adapter you may need to rotate it on the studs until all the studs are centered.
HOWEVER...if the face of the rotor has less than .005" out of flat, you may want to leave well-enough alone.

 

Looks like a badly fitting wheel spacer

assume non stock wheels

 

As stated by @doorgunner , that is a wheel spacer.

C3 rotors are nearly indestructible so I would take a wire wheel to the pad contact surfaces and check for cracks (unlikely) and just replace the pads.

 

Remove that goofball spacer and shows us another picture. Rotors might be ok if is like lots of Vettes that don't get driven much.

 

Non stock wheels, first time I got a look at it. Just didn't look right. Nothing like my 73, which is all stock. Maybe just replace the pads, blue the brakes, and go from there? I know enough to be dangerous, but this is definitely out of my knowledge.

 

That rotor is still the factory installation -- the rivets are still in place. I can't quite read the date on the caliper but it looks like it's been on there a very long time.

 

Why would it look so off? My 73 doesn't look like this, it's off center, and the stems are against the edge. Something isn't right. I want to get it on the road for this year for him. Just want it to be safe and figure out what the hell is going on.

 

As others said, it looks like a generic one-size-fits-most spacer to mount an aftermarket wheel with different offset from factory and the spacer is stuck/rusted to the wheel stud surface. Looking at the last pic, take a hammer and give it a few raps from 12:00; it should come free and look just like your '73.

 

Thanks, just don't want to get into a, sit, you need to buy this and this thing with it. Just trying to make due it is safe for the summer, then maybe take the bigger issues after.

 

I wouldn’t buy any rotors until i am sure the old ones are bad, too thin etc. if there is a lot of pad life why change those?
What was the complaint?
i guess you need the adapter if wheel offset but who knows.
maybe center the adapter with a ring to fill in the center?
i would thnk at speed they would potentially cause a vibration being off center.

looks like you will need to drill out rivets too.

 

If the brake surfaces are rusty and your buddy wanted to clean them up a little, he could fold up some 120 grit sandpaper and sand the rotor surfaces inside and out. He should be able to get his hands between the inside rotor and the shield. Or he could pop off the rotor. I can't evaluate the condition of the rotor surfaces as is. Drive it some and take a look again.

It might not hurt to bleed the brakes...using the two-guy method (you being one of the guys). The key is to let the guy doing the bleeding give the instructions...and the guy doing the pedal-work, to listen and not assume anything until told what to do (push down or let up). And also, when you let up, let up slowly and wait a couple seconds before pushing down again. In other words...don't let up quick and/or pump the brake quick during the bleed process. And NEVER let it run out of fluid during the bleed process. Get some vinyl hose to go from the bleeder screw into a catch can as the guy is working the wrench. Watch a few videos. Avoid any videos where it seems the guys are first-timers (too many of those videos out there!). New fluid might firm up his pedal and for sure will help prevent internal corrosiong issues downstream, if they haven't been bled in a few years.

What can corrode? How about aluminum pistons? Brake caliper inner iron surfaces. Steel brake lines. But mostly the aluminum pistons.

 

As everyone posted, those are adaptors. As it sits, the adaptor should move freely. I bet if you put the lug nuts on the lugs without the wheels, they would center the adaptor on the rotor. That said, I would mic the rotor to determine if they are within spec. Next I would use a dial indicator to determine runout. Lastly, consider pulling the caliper off and rebuilding. Perhaps they have been sleeved in stainless steel by a previous owner. Don't forget to replace the rubber lines at all four corners. Jerry

 

I just looked a bit closer at your picture and the calipers have been changed. Those castings are not Delco Moraine. I bet they have already been steel in stainless steel. The calipers, most likely, were cast offshore. Jerry

 

As others have said, the reason the rotors look different is because someone has installed a set of wheel spacers on the car, most likely to clear aftermarket wheels with the wrong backspacing. Spacers just slip over the studs and sit there, for lack of a better description. If you pull the spacers off you'll see that the rotors then look just like the ones on your 73.

Take a look at the link below to get a better idea of exactly what the spacers look like when not installed.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cal-202375