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Wrenching on my son's 73 Camaro today trying to diagnose a sudden no spark issue with his MSD 8360 ready to run distributor and Blaster 2 coil. At the end of the day I decided to pull the distributor and bring it home (the car lives at his grandparents house) and do some Google searches. I have never in my 30+ years of working on cars seen a distributor that was so hard to remove. I had to yank and wiggle the sh*t out of it to get it to come out. We have only owned the car a year. It has the numbers matching 350 that was rebuilt recently by the previous owner. It has a Chevy branded performer type intake on it and the distributor looks brand new. The previous owner was the KING of the "bubbas". I have the Corvette tach drive dist.,6AL box, and Blaster 2 coil in my Corvette for over 20 years without a problem (knocking on wood)
Does anyone know what would cause this issue?
Does anyone know how to test the pickup module in the distributor?
Did it get harder to remove the more you pulled it upward? you can buy a small tube of Blue Machinist Dye that will leave dye marks everywhere the fit in the bore is too tight. Clean all the distributor and the engine bore with acetone...then apply the dye to the distributor shaft housing as soon as stiffness is felt remove the distributor to see where the blue marks are. Polish rhe distributor housing until the blue marks disappear.
Repeat the process until the distributor glides into place without binding.
Always the possibility the distributor is fine.
Always the possibility the Intake hole was not machined / bored properly.
I seem to recall this happened to someone else a few yrs back. But that Intake was some off-brand.
I don't know how you are going to find out which part is the issue. But if you have to grind or sand on one or the other, I would grind on the Intake with a Shop-Vac running nearby.
It's rough cast anyway.
Wrenching on my son's 73 Camaro today trying to diagnose a sudden no spark issue with his MSD 8360 ready to run distributor and Blaster 2 coil. At the end of the day I decided to pull the distributor and bring it home (the car lives at his grandparents house) and do some Google searches. I have never in my 30+ years of working on cars seen a distributor that was so hard to remove. I had to yank and wiggle the sh*t out of it to get it to come out. We have only owned the car a year. It has the numbers matching 350 that was rebuilt recently by the previous owner. It has a Chevy branded performer type intake on it and the distributor looks brand new. The previous owner was the KING of the "bubbas". I have the Corvette tach drive dist.,6AL box, and Blaster 2 coil in my Corvette for over 20 years without a problem (knocking on wood)
Does anyone know what would cause this issue?
Does anyone know how to test the pickup module in the distributor?
Other modules can be tested with a 9 volt battery and a multimeter to test for an output signal. You need to know which wire is power, ground and signal. Power and ground to battery, multimeter to signal and battery negative.
Distributor hard to remove
