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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 03:10 PM
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Default Rear wheel alignment

After being at a shop for the last 3 months,a 1981,he replaced rear differential,new trailing arms,new bearings new rotors,longer leaf spring bolt because I wanted the back dropped some,new shocks,new bushings and all new u joints,and new adjustable struts. I picked up and some followed me,I also have new wheels that are offset,and had to use 1/4 inch adapters to clear calipers,my friend told me that on drivers side he could see the fron tires following me,which I also have adapters on the fronts,so it needs lignin up,especially the rears,when I got it home on level ground noticed the divers side front and back,the gap between fenders and tires were much closer than passenger side,and I don’t trust anyone doing this,so DIY,or try too,where to begin,everything is new,pretty much,and I’ve heard of using string line down side,but I have different size tires 235 Fronts, 255 Rears. So,any recommendations thanks.
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 05:30 PM
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Unless I’m misunderstanding your post,

Camber won’t change tire to fender gap.
camber is the angle the rear wheel sits at.

Fender to tire gap is affected by rear spring and spring bolts
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 07:01 PM
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Well,it needs to be adjusted,my issue is tires are not running straight or if your behind me,you shouldn’t be able to see my front tires or drivers side front sticking further out than my rear tire. It’s like not tracking straight.
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Golferdad
Well,it needs to be adjusted,my issue is tires are not running straight or if your behind me,you shouldn’t be able to see my front tires or drivers side front sticking further out than my rear tire. It’s like not tracking straight.
Did you mess with the trailing arm shims?

And are the spacers on just the front or all 4 corners?
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Golferdad
After being at a shop for the last 3 months,a 1981,he replaced rear differential,new trailing arms,new bearings new rotors,longer leaf spring bolt because I wanted the back dropped some,new shocks,new bushings and all new u joints,and new adjustable struts. I picked up and some followed me,I also have new wheels that are offset,and had to use 1/4 inch adapters to clear calipers,my friend told me that on drivers side he could see the fron tires following me,which I also have adapters on the fronts,so it needs lignin up,especially the rears,when I got it home on level ground noticed the divers side front and back,the gap between fenders and tires were much closer than passenger side,and I don’t trust anyone doing this,so DIY,or try too,where to begin,everything is new,pretty much,and I’ve heard of using string line down side,but I have different size tires 235 Fronts, 255 Rears. So,any recommendations thanks.
Here is my DIY Alignment method. String method is what people did to feel good, but get bad results.

My DIY Alignment method - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 11:29 PM
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Spacers on all four,and the shop said that they put shims like it came out,but like I said,new wheels,which are 8.5 wide,offset,and on one side can tell is leaning at top.
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 11:31 PM
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Thanks,this should help,I just hope the shop did everything correct when replacing new trailing arms and new bearings,
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Old Oct 31, 2024 | 04:56 AM
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Can't imagine having someone else doing all that to my car. That would be hard.
I have to allow others to paint, cause I suck at that.
So I kinda know the feeling.
anyway, front wheels ARE wider than rear wheels. This is stock. Seeing the front wheel stick out it absolutely normal! Check it of course.
BUT.
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Old Oct 31, 2024 | 05:54 AM
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I used the "string method" to set up the car after fitting new trailing arms etc. I have re-checked the alignment fairly regularly since, so in fact it takes only a few minutes now to set up the lines (technically, not string!) etc. I have been able get excellent results. (I have an instruction sheet if you do need it) It is of course not possible to check camber (or caster on the front) and a few extra tools are required for that, angle gauges, spirit levels etc, but it's perfectly "doable'. It is essential to have a level floor to work on, other than that, very little specialist equipment. 👍
Not being the world's greatest mathematician, the toughest part for me was working out how much shim was required to make the adjustments necessary based on the readings I was seeing at the rims.😱 The working out sheets and the calculations to decide the individual shims needed on each side of the T/A make interesting reading!😄
Interestingly a walk down the Le Mans pit lane prior to the 24 Hours will reveal a huge number of teams using a form of "the string method" to set up there alignment - it looks high tech, but the principle is just the same as I use!
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Old Oct 31, 2024 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Golferdad
Spacers on all four,and the shop said that they put shims like it came out,but like I said,new wheels,which are 8.5 wide,offset,and on one side can tell is leaning at top.
Lots going on here:
You mention the driver side sits lower than the passenger, that's not unusual on these cars, how are the front springs/shocks and how are the longer rear bolts adjusted?
You mention adjustable strut rods, trailing arms (assuming new bushings int them) and that he put back the same number of shims. That is enough to get by, but after so many changes, you need a wheel alignment. New wheels with spacers, might be making it look more obvious because they stick out more, are you sure your car wasn't offset tracking before as well?


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Old Oct 31, 2024 | 09:16 PM
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I, encouraged by members learned to do thr String Alignment.
Just as important is the DIY Frame Alignment.
Cliff's notes: You jack the rear of the car up and place jack stands under the frame-use a long carpenters level to shim the frame u til it is level side-to-side. rRemove the wheel and adjust the face of the rotor to be parallel with the outside of the frame that is forward of the rotor (the trailing arm needs to be jacked up until the halfshaft is nearly level). While the car is up you can adjust the camber also. Then recheck the parallel.
Adjust the other side the same way.
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Golferdad
Spacers on all four,and the shop said that they put shims like it came out,but like I said,new wheels,which are 8.5 wide,offset,and on one side can tell is leaning at top.
Sounds like you are saying you are seeing the top of the tire leaning, but I might be misunderstanding. Do you mean the tire does this: \ or this: / That is of course exaggerated, but can be corrected by adjusting the strut rod on that side.
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 04:18 AM
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Another Forum Member told me about the method below:
I cut a $15 Home Depot Carpenters Level equally on each end until it sat vertically flat on the face of the tire rim bead (not the tire rubber itself).
Then I adjusted the strut rod until the bubble was level.
I drove the car in the neighborhood and tweaked the strut rod adjustment to re-level the bubble.
Did the same to other wheel.
5,000 miles later...no weird wear patterns on either tire tread.
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Another Forum Member told me about the method below:
I cut a $15 Home Depot Carpenters Level equally on each end until it sat vertically flat on the face of the tire rim bead (not the tire rubber itself).
Then I adjusted the strut rod until the bubble was level.
I drove the car in the neighborhood and tweaked the strut rod adjustment to re-level the bubble.
Did the same to other wheel.
5,000 miles later...no weird wear patterns on either tire tread.
This more or less how I did mine some years ago. For general "cruising" type of driving, having the wheels pretty much vertical is fine. I think I set mine so that the bubble is just about at one edge of the gauge marks which gives me a tiny amount (a degree max) of negative camber.
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Stephen Irons
This more or less how I did mine some years ago. For general "cruising" type of driving, having the wheels pretty much vertical is fine. I think I set mine so that the bubble is just about at one edge of the gauge marks which gives me a tiny amount (a degree max) of negative camber.
first off run the correct tire size GM put that size for a reason . In not a fan of adjustable strut rods either . Find a good alignment shop 🙏 and bring a pack of shims with you front and back
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 02:32 PM
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Well,considering I have only a 100 miles on it in 2 years,not sure,but I do know everything was still original,so Don’t think so,and as I observe closer,I still have some things I noticed off,so some adjustments I can make,and try that see if it makes a difference,and as for your sheet,I might need it,as I’m not good in math,especially when it comes to fractions,lol. Thanks
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 02:48 PM
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It had 255-60-15 all the way around,I still have 255 on rear,but have 235-60-15 on fronts,to lower front,and also cut 1 link off spring to drop a inch or so.
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