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I want to switch from a carbureted setup to MPFI with an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, and I’m debating putting that system on my stock L82 motor after rebuilding or refreshing it vs. putting it on a crate motor.
I understand the big thing to consider is what parts they use in the rebuild vs in the crate. In order to properly compare them then, I need to go to an engine shop with preferences on which specific parts I’d like them to use. Could you all help me with recommendations on which parts I should replace to ensure maximum reliability, and which brand part to use? E.g. “bearings - Brand X”
I don’t care at all about power. I want to drive this thing across the country so I just want it to be reliable, and I want it to last for many years. Would greatly appreciate any input on what parts and brands to specifically request of the builder.
So you want a reliable engine, with EFI, that fits in your C3 Corvette, and you have the budget for a crate engine?
I'm sure someone will blast me for making the suggestion, but you want a Gen III (or Gen 4) LS engine. EFI, roller cam, 30+ years of engine development, and should easily go 300,000+ miles if not abused. You can find perfectly good examples in wrecked and/or rusted out GM trucks, too, and likely buy one or several for the price of just that Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 system.
But don't take my word for it. Check YouTube, and dozens of LS swap threads on this Forum and elsewhere.
Would buying a used LS really give me more reliability than a rebuilt L82 or new Gen1 SBC crate motor?
By my math it is significantly more expensive to go with a brand new LS3 than to go with a brand new SBC or rebuild my current L82.
Again my goal is to get the most reliable setup possible, and as you can probably tell from the routes I'm considering I do not trust carburetors at all to meet that goal (I don't want to worry about whether or not it will start when it's cold or when I'm at elevation), and I also don't trust my 48 year old stock motor. I like the comfort and reassurance I get from new parts.
Here's the cost breakdown I've put together, there are a few parts missing from the Blueprint option (water pump, balancer, spark plugs and wires, etc), but the rest seems fairly accurate. It's a lot more to go LS when you add up swap kit, more expensive radiator, need to swap out to digital gauges, and the more expensive base engine. I would love to be wrong on this, I have an LS3 crate engine in my other car and I love it. But I have a hard time justifying the price difference on this car...
I rebuilt my 71 with a roller cam and roller rockers, forged crank and new pistons. 20k miles and no issues, it's almost a daily driver.
Do you have any brand recommendations for the cam, rockers, crank, pistons, etc? I want to make sure when I get quotes from engine builders that they are using quality stuff.
Certainly no convincing needed. It's just that the LS3 crate engines have gone up in price and now with a nearly $12k price tag for motor and ECU alone, I am having a hard time going that route again when rebuilding my L82 is only $5k and adding EFI to that another $3k max.
If I knew of a source for quality rebuilt LS motors at stock spec, I would happily go that route. Most LS offerings other than GM Performance are for high horsepower versions and I not only don't care about that but want to actively avoid the sacrifice they make in reliability.
If you are building the engine. Then I would have little issue recommending various parts.
If you are having a shop build you a engine, which you are. You need to find a shop you trust.
Better idea is you build your own engine.
I know what I would tell you if you came to my shop and told me what parts I should use.
Do you have any brand recommendations for the cam, rockers, crank, pistons, etc? I want to make sure when I get quotes from engine builders that they are using quality stuff.
I am currently having my 427 machined and rebuilt by an experienced racing and restoration builder. This will be a solid engine with quality parts for reliability and good street performance. Here are the various parts and makers from my spreadsheet.
Part Manufacturer Part #
Pistons Speed Pro forged SLP-L2300NF30
Piston rings Hasting 2M683030
Camshaft Melling MEL-22216 (hydraulic flat tappet)
Lifters Melling JB817
Pushrods Melling MPR-379
Pushrods Melling MPR-380
Valve springs Melling 466224
Intake gasket set Mahle / Clevite MS15188
Head gaskets Mr. Gasket 1131G (steel shim)
Camshaft bearings Sealed Power 1404M
Oil pump shaft Melling IS77
Oil pump Melling M77
Freeze plug set Melling MPE102BR
Gasket set Mahle / Clevite 95-3026
Valves - Intake stainless Ferrea Racing F5007-8
Valves - Exhaust stainless Ferrea Racing F5010-8
Connecting Rod Bolts ARP 135-6002
Rod bearings Clevite 77 CB-743P-10
Main bearings Clevite 77 MS-829P-10
Valve guides - Mang bronze CHE Precision
Don’t forget to add the cost of a new exhaust to your LS column too.
If you’re farming the engine rebuilding out. I would find a reputable shop and see what they recommend as far as bearings and gaskets etc. Honestly the best way to not go wrong is using American made parts and avoiding the imported stuff. With your forged internals of your L82 there’s a good chance you won’t need to replace them since you’re just doing a factory style rebuild. Any good shop should magnaflux your block and check all components to make sure they’re good to put back in the engine.
Talk with the engine builder. Also talk with local guys and get a good engine builder.
I used a Scat crank, Black pistons and Comp Cams roller cam and rockers. Original rods and a Heli Dissy. Redid the heads and did not need to put inserts in the valve seats as the heads were super hard. Weiand Stealth manifold - Street Worrier and Edelbrock Carb.
The cam is close to the LT1 350/370HP cam.
The main thing was to set up the engine on the Dyno so its already tuned and ready to go, also easier to fix ant leaks if they occur,
What year is your car? I think a carburetor is extremely reliable. If set up properly or rebuilt by Lars. What’s wrong with your current L82 motor? I would think that that L 82 with forged internals would be like a reliable truck motor.
if I was just gonna cruise across country in it my L82 it would drive me crazy with high RPMs on the highway, maybe budget gearing depending on motor choice.
Certainly no convincing needed. It's just that the LS3 crate engines have gone up in price and now with a nearly $12k price tag for motor and ECU alone, I am having a hard time going that route again when rebuilding my L82 is only $5k and adding EFI to that another $3k max.
If I knew of a source for quality rebuilt LS motors at stock spec, I would happily go that route. Most LS offerings other than GM Performance are for high horsepower versions and I not only don't care about that but want to actively avoid the sacrifice they make in reliability.
The LS-based engine in my Sierra has worked flawlessly for 17 years, and there are millions like it still on the road for cheap, or still running inside crashed and rusted out trucks. I did the same math you did, and decided that for both of my C3s, swapping out the tired original engines for used LS engines (that are easy to refresh yourself) is a better plan. At least for me. I'd much rather do the engine work myself than pay someone, as it is something I enjoy.
Originally Posted by interpon
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if I was just gonna cruise across country in it my L82 it would drive me crazy with high RPMs on the highway, maybe budget gearing depending on motor choice.
Since the OP has the same entry for "SST TKX C3 Kit" in all three columns of his spreadsheet, that is likely to replace the need for a gearing swap. Great choice BTW!
Engine rebuild parts recommendations
